Newbie w/ lots of questions

[ccso139]

I just bought a 95 eagle talon tsi awd, to which I am new to both turbos and awd vehicles. I am not much of a mechanic either, but rely on my younger brother for help. I have searched the site for answers and have found similar problems, my exact problem I have not found. Thanks in advance for the help and try to be gentle and speak english...

The only engine mods that I am sure of are: intercooler pipe, 1g bov and air filter (attached to stock air box). I have already ordered a short ram air intake w/ the maf adapter and all other adapters needed (at least that is what the auction claimed) and am looking to get a free flow "racing" cat and exhaust. I have no intentions of racing, but do want to get as much "streetable" power out of it as is feasible.

Now to the problem: When accelerating at 3/4 to full throttle the car "stutters" at or around 12-15 psi on the boost gauge and will not accelerate passed it. When slowly accelerating at less than 1/2 throttle it doesn't seem to do it. Two days ago, it boosted to 20psi w/o any stutter at all. , wasn't done intentionally just kind of happened. Then it started raining and the car began running like a$$!! Would stutter as soon as the turbo spooled up, but this stopped when the rain cleared and went back to the normal stutter at 12psi. I have no idea what the turbo is set at and don't know how to check it. We changed the plugs and wires already, but that is it.

Now to questions:
1) What do I need to check and fix to get rid of the stutter?
2) Will a "racing" cat cause a check engine light? I read on one ebay auction that an o2 sensor simulator maybe needed...if so, where do I get this?
3) I am going to go w/ a 3" cat back exhaust, but can't seem to figure out if the awd is the same system as for a fwd...the auctions don't say.

One more thing, the car has an after market fiberglass hood that has a "ram air" opening that goes to nothing. Will water entering the engine bay from this hurt anything. I realize that driving in the rain is gonna get up into the engine bay and all, but this provides a direct route to the engine. Just doesn't compute to me somehow.

Thanks for any and all help. Also looking for a shop in the Atl area if anyone knows of one.

 

[subie22]

you may have got your self a boost leak. But with the hood something could of gotton wet. But between the heat of the engine and exhaust, some rain really wouldnt bother much. But it could happen. DSM's are known for the famous boost leaks. Thats what i would check first before going into anything in depth. Especially if you just got it. Thats part of the maintence you have to do. But keep us posted. Theres plenty of people who know there stuff. And you're issue will be fixed in no time....

You are most likely will need the o2 sensor simulator. Not to sure since i own a 1g.

I do beleive you will need an exhaust for a awd, since the down pipe for a fwd will prob hit the transfercase on your awd..

 

[kenamond]

Do a boost leak test and fix all leaks. Search for more info, as it's been covered more than anything else.

Check your plugs and wires. Plugs should be NGK BPR6ES gapped to 0.028" ($2/ea at napa). I use Bosch wires, but there are better out there. That might be causing the stuttering.

I imagine you have an aftermarket boost gauge, because you quote boost numbers, and the stock gauge has none. I'm suprised you see 20psi with the mods you listed. The stock boost level is 10-12psi. Maybe you have an aftermarket boost controller and don't know it?

There are many causes of stutter, but boost leak testing and new plugs and wires are my suggestions.

The FWD and AWD exhausts are different and aren't interchangeable. I'm waiting on a G-Power 3" turboback with test pipe (cat delete) and have heard good things from others. It's 2.5" from the O2 housing to the end of the flex section and 3" the rest of the way back. Also, it's stainless steel, so it won't rust. If you're interested, seller juicyjems on ebay sells them for 2g AWD. There are other exhausts that are 3" from the O2 housing outlet, but then you need a larger O2 housing so that it'll bolt up. The G-Power is $299 shipped which is the best deal I've ever seen for a 3" turboback (well, mostly 3").

The ECU will throw a code unless you address the rear O2 sensor. All that sensor does is verify that the cat is there and working; it has no effect on performance whatsoever. The front O2 sensor is the one that the ECU uses for monitoring air-fuel ratio (but only when cruising). I need to learn more about what to do with the rear O2 sensor as well, as I'll have to deal with it in the next week or two.

 

[GSX4BangR]

AWD exhausts are slightly different than a FWD's. There are many DSM's sites that have 3" cat-backs for both FWD and AWD so you'll be able to tel the difference. Try these sites:

Mitsubishi Turbo Performance Parts from Mach V Motorsports
AMSPerformance.com
DsmPerformance.com | Dsm Performance | Horsepower Performance | Turbo Eclipse DSM | Performance Specs
Modern Automotive Performance
Welcome To Slowboy Racing

just to name a few, google for more sites.

 

[ccso139]

I imagine you have an aftermarket boost gauge, because you quote boost numbers, and the stock gauge has none. I'm suprised you see 20psi with the mods you listed. The stock boost level is 10-12psi. Maybe you have an aftermarket boost controller and don't know it?

I do have an after market boost gauge. It only shot to 20psi that one time, I have always shifted somewhere around 15psi before. It just shot right passed 15 right to 20 before I knew it.... and to about 105 in a 35mph zone, so needless to say, I slowed down quickly. I'll admit to being a "hard" driver, so I have run it up to redline several times, but never w/ the boost passing 15ish psi. I really need to find a shop that can tell me what I do and do not have.

 

[skeeter4200]

take some pics of your interior like the dash and then some of the engine bay and post them for us to look at. I do agree with everyone else that you should start with a boost leak test and then work from there

 

[ccso139]

Ok, so I am in the middle of a leak test now, I have found and fixed the two leaks coming from the turbo air intake. Now it seems like the air is leaking from around the throttle body!! I guess I will have to live w/ it for now and track down the gaskets for it later. Any ideas?

 

[ccso139]

Decided not to worry about the throttle body leaking, it wasn't much at all. The psi on the leak tester at 15 psi the boost gauge at 17psi, is that normal? Put car back together and knock on wood, it is running great now!!!! At hard acceleration, boost gauge jumps up to around 18psi and slowly falls down to 15psi where it stays until shifting. It is hard to drive and watch everything at the same time, but that seemed to be the pattern. Stopped by auto zone and rechecked the CEL, had 3 last Sun, now down to 1: p0170 fuel trim malfunction bank 1. From what I have read, guess that I should start by replacing the o2 sensor. Below is pictures requested:

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[kenamond]

Are the TB leaks coming from the gasket, BISS, throttle shaft seals, or what? Spray super soapy water all over the TB and do the test. Find where the bubbles appear.

If it's the TB gaskets, you can reuse the metal ones (I did, no problem). Put a sort of thin film of black, O2-sensor-safe RTV on both sides of the gasket and put it back together. Let it dry. I forget, but mine might have had one metal gasket and one felt. Do the same for the felt one.

I'm wondering if your fuel trim error code is from the boost leak. Disconnect the positive cable from the battery for about 10 minutes to clear the code (or clear it with a logger if you have one). If it comes back, you still have a problem somewhere. The ECU is basically saying, "The car is running rich and I've adjusted as far as I'm allowed to adjust, and it's still rich." Same goes for lean. If the error comes back, it might be your O2 sensor, or it might be something else. If it doesn't come back, it was most likely from the leaks you fixed.

 

[ccso139]

Are the TB leaks coming from the gasket, BISS, throttle shaft seals, or what? Spray super soapy water all over the TB and do the test. Find where the bubbles appear.

If it's the TB gaskets, you can reuse the metal ones (I did, no problem). Put a sort of thin film of black, O2-sensor-safe RTV on both sides of the gasket and put it back together. Let it dry. I forget, but mine might have had one metal gasket and one felt. Do the same for the felt one.

I'm wondering if your fuel trim error code is from the boost leak. Disconnect the positive cable from the battery for about 10 minutes to clear the code (or clear it with a logger if you have one). If it comes back, you still have a problem somewhere. The ECU is basically saying, "The car is running rich and I've adjusted as far as I'm allowed to adjust, and it's still rich." Same goes for lean. If the error comes back, it might be your O2 sensor, or it might be something else. If it doesn't come back, it was most likely from the leaks you fixed.

It's hard to tell where exactly it was coming from. The majority of it came from the top front left corner, where it looks like a bolt or plug or something is missing. It was blowing bubbles out of it. I'll disconnect the battery tomorrow and try that to reset. I have to run get an emissions test before getting a tag anyway, so I need to reset it anyway. The cel was off for 2 days after taking the battery cable off Sunday, so hopefully long enough to run it through emissions.

 

[kenamond]

It's hard to tell where exactly it was coming from. The majority of it came from the top front left corner, where it looks like a bolt or plug or something is missing. It was blowing bubbles out of it. I'll disconnect the battery tomorrow and try that to reset. I have to run get an emissions test before getting a tag anyway, so I need to reset it anyway. The cel was off for 2 days after taking the battery cable off Sunday, so hopefully long enough to run it through emissions.

Can you post a picture showing where the leak was coming from?

 

[ccso139]

Can you post a picture showing where the leak was coming from?

Ok, so I have obviously lost my mind, because as you can see in the picture below: it is the bottom right.

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[kenamond]

That's the base idle set screw (BISS). It has an o-ring around the shank that seals it into the TB, and the o-ring is bad. Get a new BISS o-ring. It's a #5 o-ring at your local hardware store. $0.50 or so.

The link below has more info. O-ring info is to the right of the last picture.
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/BISS-2G.html

I've never taken mine out, but I hear that the o-ring makes it hard to get out after you've fully unscrewed it. Also, I'm not sure if there are any tricks to readjusting the BISS after you get the new o-ring. I vaguely recall that you should tighten it all the way until it bottoms out and carefully count the number of turns, then you reinstall all the way till it bottoms out and back it out that number of turns. Might want to search"adjusting BISS" or something similar to be sure.

 

[ccso139]

That's the base idle set screw (BISS). It has an o-ring around the shank that seals it into the TB, and the o-ring is bad. Get a new BISS o-ring. It's a #5 o-ring at your local hardware store. $0.50 or so.

The link below has more info. O-ring info is to the right of the last picture.
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/BISS-2G.html

I've never taken mine out, but I hear that the o-ring makes it hard to get out after you've fully unscrewed it. Also, I'm not sure if there are any tricks to readjusting the BISS after you get the new o-ring. I vaguely recall that you should tighten it all the way until it bottoms out and carefully count the number of turns, then you reinstall all the way till it bottoms out and back it out that number of turns. Might want to search"adjusting BISS" or something similar to be sure.

Thanks, I will give that a shot tomorrow.

 

[ccso139]

Got the exhaust leak fixed. But, now I have a new display light on. It is on the right hand corner, maybe on the second row? It looks like a merry go round or carousel or something like that. I have done a google and search of this site, but haven't found what it is for. Any help? Thanks.

 

[knochgoon24]

It's a low coolant fluid light.

Check this thread http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/197899-weird-dash-light-symbol-what.html

 

[ccso139]

It's a low coolant fluid light.

Check this thread http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/197899-weird-dash-light-symbol-what.html

Thanks, I had looked everywhere trying to find a listing for the icons.