Wana build a 97 7 bolt 2.3l

[ezz-e]

I want to build a 2g 7 bolt block into a 2.3L stroker. I no i need the 4g64 crank and the stroker pistons in the 4g63 block. But when i was reading up on this there was a little confusion on what rods to use and some clearance problems on the crank side.

Well basically these are my questions/

What Rods can i use? I am getting Eagle Rods but i wan to no what length and can they be 6 bolt style or 7 bolt style?

What needs to be done to 4g63 block to make it a 2.3 stroker?

What Cam Gears do i need? or can i use adjustable ones that are made for the 63?

Can i Use a stock head or is there upgrading needed? If so what must be done to the heads?

I plan to run a large turbo and this will be a street/strip car.

 

[ezz-e]

Any one have any inputs on this

 

[Black95awd]

I want to build a 2g 7 bolt block into a 2.3L stroker. I no i need the 4g64 crank and the stroker pistons in the 4g63 block. But when i was reading up on this there was a little confusion on what rods to use and some clearance problems on the crank side.

Well basically these are my questions/

What Rods can i use? I am getting Eagle Rods but i wan to no what length and can they be 6 bolt style or 7 bolt style?

What needs to be done to 4g63 block to make it a 2.3 stroker?

What Cam Gears do i need? or can i use adjustable ones that are made for the 63?

Can i Use a stock head or is there upgrading needed? If so what must be done to the heads?

I plan to run a large turbo and this will be a street/strip car.

stock length 7 bolt rods.

you need to do clearancing at the bottom of the cylinder walls, and a couple casting ribs. also on the main caps for the added stroke.

stock cam gears or adjustable are fine.

you can use a stock head but I would suggest upgrading to stainless valves and better s&r and a set of cams. also some port work will help.

 

[brandonzero0]

stock length 7 bolt rods.

you need to do clearancing at the bottom of the cylinder walls, and a couple casting ribs. also on the main caps for the added stroke.

stock cam gears or adjustable are fine.

you can use a stock head but I would suggest upgrading to stainless valves and better s&r and a set of cams. also some port work will help.

Stock length rods is correct so the eagles are fine you can use them.

You do NOT need to clearance or notch the bottom of the cylinder wall or the girdle for the rods to clear unless you are using some big type of rods like Groden forged aluminum rods

Stock head, cams and full valve train will be fine for just running it unless you want to upgrade. But you can use adjustable cams for a 4g63.

 

[Black95awd]

You do NOT need to clearance or notch the bottom of the cylinder wall or the girdle for the rods to clear unless you are using some big type of rods like Groden forged aluminum rods

WTF I dont know how the 4G63 was cast in Michigan. or mybe if it grows when it crosses the border, but here the 7 bolt does need clearancing.

 

[brandonzero0]

Well I have run running without it sorry. would you like pics I only had to clearance with grodens...

 

[meliketoball]

Well I have run running without it sorry. would you like pics I only had to clearance with grodens...

Are those beef USDA approved?

 

[Asimmons90GSX]

If you are wanting to stroke your car I assume you want to be fast? So yes I would do a port and polish and upgrade with stainless oversized valves and titanium springs and retainers. And do some cams...why not? Cam gears aren't needed but I would suggest going ahead and getting them. Fidanza's are a good set.

 

[brandonzero0]

Are those beef USDA approved?

yuppers............. hahahaha...HA!!!

 

[brandonzero0]

If you are wanting to stroke your car I assume you want to be fast? So yes I would do a port and polish and upgrade with stainless oversized valves and titanium springs and retainers. And do some cams...why not? Cam gears aren't needed but I would suggest going ahead and getting them. Fidanza's are a good set.

Right with ya just figured he wanted to keep it in a tight budget But Yes.

 

[Asimmons90GSX]

I gotcha man. Good advice

 

[erald01]

stroking the engine means more torque so watch out for the trans

 

[TheBagelGuy]

I don't know about the clearance issues with a stroker because i've never messed with them, but I have built a few heads, and if you've got the money and you want a decent strip but very streetable car, i would go with something like a 264 intake and 272 exhaust cam setup, and you don't nessecarily need oversized valves, but they do flow a little bit better than a 3 angle valve job on std. sized valves, but it will cost a little bit more at the machine shop to get oversized, but a standard set w/valve job are just as reliable. and as for springs and retainers, just pick up a nice set of brian crower single springs and titanium retainers. And dont worry about replacing the valve guides unless they're bad. and if I were you, i'd go ahead and get 3g lifters to get rid of that annoying tick. And don't forget to use some quality head studs like ARP and something like a COMETIC head gasket. I don't think i'm forgetting anything.

In my opinion, if your gonna stroke it, go ahead and pull that head and build it too, that way you won't have to worry about it later and you'll have a fully built engine that can handle pretty much anything you can throw at it.

 

[ezz-e]

Nice advice so far you guys thanks this helps alot. Is there some type of boring that needs to be done to the cylinder so the taper of it wont affect the Stroker pistons?

Well as for the head Can i get away with using 272's and some port work using the stock valve train?
I mean i hear that you cannot rev past 7500 rpm on a stroke 2.3l

 

[90talontsi90]

...I mean i hear that you cannot rev past 7500 rpm on a stroke 2.3l

Thats not completly true, the piston speed of a 2.3 at 8000 rpm is almost the same as what a formula 1 car sees. And the rod angle is horrible, BUT yes you can rev them to whatever the F!@# you want to just know what the end result could be. At the same time we have a man who goes by the name of kiggly who holds the DSM records for an Auto trans, who with the help of a very mean girddle revs his to somewhere around 8.5K if I recall correctly. But how high you accually rev should be based on your torque and HP.

And yes people have been getting by before with using stock valvetrain with 272's but I wouldn't subjest it. The money spent on portwork would be better spend on good springs and retainers, but that's just how I look at it.

Kyle

 

[ezz-e]

Ok here is what i have as a parts list

I jus have the part ibelive are important listed, and i have a 7 bolt 2.4 crank in my hand allready.

ARP Main Studs: Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99 #17035
59.00
Brian Crower Camshafts & Valve Springs/Retainers Combo: Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99 #20972
539.95
ARP Headstuds + Cometic Headgasket: 90-99 Mitsubishi Eclipse #18127
156.50
Fidanza Adjustable Cam Gears: Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99 Turbo #17357
198.00
Eagle H-Beam Connecting Rods: Mitsubishi Eclipse 7-Bolt 92-99 #17225
309.00
Ross Forged "2.3L Stroker" Racing Pistons w/ Rings (9.0 C.R.): Mitsubishi Eclipse 92-99 7-Bolt #20207

429.99

Stainless Steel Valves (1mm Over)
195.00
Main Bearing Cap Alignment Dowel (MBCAD) Kit
59.00

 

[Asimmons90GSX]

why would you want to stroke a car and turn less rpms when the motor is WELL capable of making power in upwards of 9000 rpm ranges?? Stay 2.0 or 2.1 destroked. I was actually looking at doing a destroked motor myself for my build.

 

[ezz-e]

Well I want to go with a 2.3 build since im looking for more of a street engine that can spool a large turbo and make 500+ hp. Im allready runing a 2.0 on a 60-1 t4 turbo reving to 8500 and its incredible on the track but its hard to spool on the street. I jus think it depends on what your looking for. But nun the less what ever you do to a 4G6 equals good HP.

 

[Asimmons90GSX]

Ditch that POS t4 turbo and go with something mitsu flanged and ball bearing and you'll never experience lag or worry about spool up ever again...even on a stock 2.0