$3500 Rebuild Help Me Out!

[Re4peR26]

Well after some weeks researching my options I've decided to rebuild/build my current motor in the car! But i was wondering a setup i Should do like for example

Head: Titanium lifters, blah blah You can fill in the rest

Bottem end, eagle rods and wiesico pistons

Gaskets i plan on going with mitsubishi

Now you could tell me a good setup that i could get anywhere from 350-400hp

DSM link is in the making, As far as turbo goes i was either going to go 20g or FP green you could help me decide that as well! once i know what to build parts will be getting ordered!

 

[shuedaman]

My current build included eagle rods, wiseco pistons, machine work, stainless valves, springs, titanium retainers, stock cams, cometic head gasket, main and head studs, and a host of other necessary parts for a rebuild. Make sure you use something better than the stock head gasket. I think I'm at about $4500 for the entire thing, just for the motor, but let me check that tonight because it may include the clutch/flywheel and new exhaust manifold. I've got an EVO III and i'm installing a FMIC, shooting for 375 AWHP.

If you need to fit a new turbo/intercooler/clutch/etc. into your budget also, you will have your work cut out for you. There's a big list of parts that you're going to find out that you need to replace as you go, and even though they are $5-$20 they add up quickly. PM me and I can send you my spreadsheet for how I have tracked my build, maybe it will help you out. Good luck!

 

[outkastracing]

well heres what i did or am doing i have a six bolt your machine work should not cost more than ###### 350 dollars or so! as for pistons and rods you can get a set for about 730 shipped to your house! head if you go with some say brian cower valve springs and retainers its about 230shipped. valves are about 200??? and then cams if you go aggressive i went with bc 280s i got them for 300! then you need a gasket set and some arps! so total of about 1800 can you do this your self??? or you paying someone cause then the cost goes up thats just the engine! then you need fuel, turbo,fmic, ext. good luck

 

[MountainDew]

My build is consisting of the following.

6bolt block
Stock Crank
Eagle Rods
Weisco Pistons
ARP Main Studs
ARP Head Studs
Cometic MLS Headgasket
Stock Head
1G Intake Manifold
1G Throttle Body

Of course I've gotten a steal on everything so far.. I've sunk about $600 in everything but I haven't been to the machine shop yet. Hopefully it'll just be another $200 or so. Depending if I reuse my 7bolt head or find a 6bolt one.

Supporting mods I've ordered quite a bit. But I've stopped for now until I can get my motor done. I'm starting to run low on cash and don't get paid for another month.

Now is the perfect time to do things like tranny overhaul, clutch, shifter cable mod, check your transfercase, axles, driveshafts, make sure the rear end is good. You don't want to build the car and have your drivetrain break now do ya?

As far as a turbo, 20g or FP Red would do the job with the right tuning and supporting mods. Personally I'm a big fan of 20Gs, but FP3065s are downright amazing. Never seen a car with an FP Red/Green. 35r is a pretty cute little turbo too.

 

[Deadpool]

I am in about the same boat here, I picked up my car as basicly a shell and have been reading around trying to figure out what will get me the most bang for my buck. The goal is a nice clean fair weather toy that I can drive to the track and take down V8's one night and the next go take a girl to dinner or zip around town. Am I a little unreasonable with my goals or is this possible ?

 

[shuedaman]

There are certainly deals to be had, and I'm got my fair share. I did do some"extra" machining, balancing the crank and a few other things, and there are plenty of people out there who have built engines for less and are making equivalent or more power. I would caution that there are several things that many people don't include in their "$3500 rebuilds", for instance timing belts, balance shaft removal or a new belt, oil pump, engine bearings, rod bearings, gasket set, and not to mention any tools that you may not have. It's not always necessary to replace everything, but if the block is apart, do you really want to take it apart again for something like a balance shaft belt? Anyway, just saying that it's helpful to have a plan and don't forget the "hidden" costs!

It's also easier to help you if you can confirm that your profile is up to date, i.e. not needing to buy a new turbo with your $3500 will make a big difference.

 

[MountainDew]

There are certainly deals to be had, and I'm got my fair share. I did do some"extra" machining, balancing the crank and a few other things, and there are plenty of people out there who have built engines for less and are making equivalent or more power. I would caution that there are several things that many people don't include in their "$3500 rebuilds", for instance timing belts, balance shaft removal or a new belt, oil pump, engine bearings, rod bearings, gasket set, and not to mention any tools that you may not have. It's not always necessary to replace everything, but if the block is apart, do you really want to take it apart again for something like a balance shaft belt? Anyway, just saying that it's helpful to have a plan and don't forget the "hidden" costs!

It's also easier to help you if you can confirm that your profile is up to date, i.e. not needing to buy a new turbo with your $3500 will make a big difference.

I know exactly what you mean. I haven't ordered bearings yet cause I want to make sure the block and crank are good. It also helps knowing people though.

Still, I'm forgetting about some of the little stuff as well.

 

[shuedaman]

I know exactly what you mean. I haven't ordered bearings yet cause I want to make sure the block and crank are good. It also helps knowing people though.

Still, I'm forgetting about some of the little stuff as well.

Yeah, that's why I've documented EVERYTHING so far, so I can answer just this question. I've even saved $1.97 reciepts for bolts I needed to replace so that when I work on my next, much bigger project I'll have a much better idea of price.

As you mentioned, it's not worth spending money that will get you no where, so it's also important to plan TIME as much as MONEY. I can only work on my car on weekends, so time management and making sure all the parts I need are there is another layer of planning to do.

Maybe I plan too much, but it comes from watching the corporate aerospace industry continuously going over budget and WAY too long on schedule. That and I'm a mechanical engineer...

 

[Re4peR26]

Well I will ###### just stick with the 16g for a while then upgrade after the build, Im just trying to get a decent ammout of power but yet still maintain some reliabliity!

 

[MountainDew]

Well I will ###### just stick with the 16g for a while then upgrade after the build, Im just trying to get a decent ammout of power but yet still maintain some reliabliity!

Honestly man.. build a badass motor and get every bug and problem worked out. If I could do it all over again, my car would have been running by now but since I kept buying gofast parts, it's going to be down for another 2-4 weeks.

 

[shuedaman]

Honestly man.. build a badass motor and get every bug and problem worked out. If I could do it all over again, my car would have been running by now but since I kept buying gofast parts, it's going to be down for another 2-4 weeks.

+1, I completely agree.

 

[outkastracing]

thats what im doin is just exactly that im building a bad ass motor then ill start with injectors extra so build the motor then build around it you can still drive the car then

 

[carbide]

OK, please have the block bored/honed/and decked at a machine shop. Don't skip this stuff!

The 20G should be able to provide the power you want, and is apparently one of the most reliable turbos ever.

If you run ARP Main studs, you need to Align Hone/Bore the main bearing journals. You don't really need those unless you realistically see your car acheiving more than maybe ~500whp

 

[keymaster]

Why are you all recommending all these forged internals and what not for a 400whp build? The stock internals have handled that kind of power time and time again with no problems. Why spend all that money on internals you'll probably never come close to needing, when you could put that money towards turbo, FMIC, injectors, etc? Go with 2G pistons on 1G big rods and call it a day.

 

[MountainDew]

Why are you all recommending all these forged internals and what not for a 400whp build? The stock internals have handled that kind of power time and time again with no problems. Why spend all that money on internals you'll probably never come close to needing, when you could put that money towards turbo, FMIC, injectors, etc? Go with 2G pistons on 1G big rods and call it a day.

It's just extra assurance and doing it right the first time. Sure they can handle that, but daily driven and beat on all the time? I'm sorry but something is going to happen sooner or later. Putting in stock rods/pistons on a 400+whp build is like having sex but not even finishing.

Then again, it's easy for me to say all this because I got a steal on my eagle rods/weisco pistons for $350.

Also you do realize that he has $3500 to spend? If he plans everything right, that should be plenty to get the motor built up and get the supporting mods he wants.

 

[Re4peR26]

You've all made good points, My goal is to have a decent amount of power but yet not have to worry about it starting or giving me alot of problems. Here is what I've gatherd so far, Eagle Rods, Wiesico Pistons, get the block decked honed and bored MLS head gasket. As far as head im going to go with BC cams not sure what other kindof head internels i should go with.