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engine building questions

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clayborne

Probationary Member
15
0
Sep 9, 2006
dickson, Tennessee
Have a couple of loose ends I wanted to tie up before my motor entered final assembly. I have researched all questions thoroughly and not come up with the particular answers I have been looking for. I am in the process of building a 6 bolt turbo motor to swap in my eclipse. My engine will be running 1g rods 2g pistons a garret .42 t3/t4 turbo with treadstone manifold and tial external wastegate, Acl race beaings, crower top end components. Ditching the turbo cams from the head and retaining the na auto cams as I have read they have a longer duration. This information in mind I ask:
1. Oil relief valve porting necessary if balance shafts are removed but retaining oil squirters?
2. If using 2g pistons mounted on 1g rods would an mls or cometic head gasket be a bad idea? The main reason I wanted this combo was because with the t3/t4 I am expecting a fairly good deal of turbo lag. As a daily driver I thought the pistons higher compression ratio would help this. Also I have read tons of threads about them not sealing properly.
3. I cut my balance shaft for the oil pump off about an inch from where it sticks out of the oil pump and put it in the Bridgeport and machined it to accept a 1/2" wrench. Should the hollow portion of the shaft where I cut it be filled in with jb weld or something similar or if I use some kind of thread sealant on the bolt that hold the gear on will that be sufficient to keep oil from leaking out of my block.
4. lastly any of the afore mentioned mods a bad idea, kind of late in the game to be worried bout this one now as I have all of the parts, but from my research here I believe this motor will be quite capable of putting out decent numbers. But reassurance from those who have traveled this road before is always nice

Again thanks in advance for any help you might offer.
 
from what i was told you have to oval it out to level out the oil pressure, if you dont your oil pressure will exceed 110psi. Which isnt very good for the bearings. But i was also told people dont oval out and run high oil pressure. But someone chime in so i know this answer also.
 
PLEASE, if you plan on using a Muti-Layer Steel headgasket, get your block and head decked! Or you may have sealing problems. If you can't get it decked, just use a copper-sprayed OEM headgasket.

With the balance shaft, it should be fine. My question, where you just too cheap to buy the OEM stubby shaft?
 
Mig or tig weld the hole closed on your stub shaft. Not sure if I would trust JB weld. If it comes un-done you would loose oil pressure.
 
I am notoriously cheap, though this was not the reason for the stub shaft it was more of a hey drive an hour to the nearest dealership or machine one. I may still end up ordering one as I plan on going to order the block off for the b/s in the front case but then again 14 bucks is 14 bucks. And yes the head and block have been decked but neither is mirror quality whic I have read it should be before attempting to use mls or the like. Oh and I hadn't even considered filling it in with weld as I was lead to believe welding on cast was a no no. Also to all of you have chimed in I really appreciate your words of wisdom and would like to see more.
 
check out pics of my new build tell me what you think
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I know most of you see coil on plug as a waste but hey, wanted to give it a shot think my plate turnedd out well, what are some of your opinnions?
 

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removed battery terminal to hook up a new black box to my glow guages (old one died). When i put the terminal back on my narrowband will now only read when the engine is first started, and when the gas is pressed and then you let your foot of the pedal quickly. The guage dosent read at all during acelleration, cruise, and once it warms. idle. Worked perfectly before so I figure the guage must have got a surge or somthing, but when i hook up the mmcd it is also sowing o.o volts till the gass goosed then nothing. Any ideas?
 
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