rebuilding alternator?

[93_tsi_fwd]

What is the best way to rebuild an alternater by my self? What do I have to fix inside the alternator? I dont quite have the money to buy a new used one. Anybody ever rebuilted an alternator by them selves?

 

[Purevil]

Stealth 316 - Alternator Rebuild 1991-1995 3S DOHC

Shown using a 3si alternator. Some of the part numbers are different, call JNZ, they can get you anything you need.

 

[Gordian79]

try getting a galant VR-4 one as it has 100amps as oppose to 80 amps of a dsm one.i could be wrong with the amps but the galants definatly have more amps.

 

[siceclipse]

DSM comes with 65amps USA

Canada has 90amps

not sure on the GVR-4

 

[93_tsi_fwd]

The fuse that is on the car right now is 100amps and it also says 100amps on the fuse box cover, and its not blown. I started the car and took out 1 battery terminal and the car died. So the alternator is bad. I just wanna try rebuilding it my self because i dont have the money to buy a used one yet.

 

[Gordian79]

DSM comes with 65amps USA

Canada has 90amps

not sure on the GVR-4

well i guess the galant is 90 amps as well.

 

[siceclipse]

The fuse that is on the car right now is 100amps and it also says 100amps on the fuse box cover, and its not blown. I started the car and took out 1 battery terminal and the car died. So the alternator is bad. I just wanna try rebuilding it my self because i dont have the money to buy a used one yet.

Use the above link to take the alternator apart and replace the parts that need to be replaced via JNZ Tuning.

Ask about upgraded parts that put out more amprage.

then get back to me cause i have a spare alt i wanna do this to.

hardest part of the rebuild should be the soldering.

 

[luv2rallye]

DSM comes with 65amps USA

2g USA has 75A turbo and 90A NT.

BTW: Here is another article on home alt test/rebuild: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/54783-alternator-service.html

 

[93_tsi_fwd]

The rebuilding of the alternator went wrong and is in pieces before we even got it out. The alternator was already been rebuilt. I only had $20 on me today, me and my dad went to a local junk yard and looked for a simila looking alternator. I got an alternator from a 95 or so mitsubishi EXPO and got it tested at kragen auto parts and it passed. we got home, I compared it with the messed up stock alternator and everything looked excactly the same. I installed it in the car without any problems. After putting everything back, started the car, let it idled and i took of 1 battery terminal and stayed one. I got the alternator for $24 something and my dad spotted me $5 to pay for it.


1 down
2 to go

 

[Daveed]

Sounds like you got it taken care of.

However, for those doing searches and finding this thread you can check the DSM VFAQ site and this is what you'll get under the electrical section...but it will looks better and have pics etc.
.
.
.
After I changed the timing belt on my '91 GST, I started getting a very bad belt squeal. I narrowed it down to the crankshaft -> water pump -> alternator belt. I replaced the belt, adjusted tension, used factory belts... no change. One weekend I started the car and let it run for about 10 seconds (squealing all the time). I then touched each of the pulleys: crankshaft -- cool, water pump -- cool, alternator -- hotter the hell! That told me that there is something has gone bad on/in the alternator. More than likely one/both of the bearings. So I replaced them along with the brushes since I was in there. Here is the procedure I used to do all of that, so you may need only a portion of this procedure if you're not replacing what I did.

Tools Needed
Alternator Removal
ratchet
sockets (10mm, 12mm, 14mm)
screwdriver
Bearing Removal
Screwdriver (flat head & philips)
Hammer
Ratchet Extension
Impact Wrench (22mm socket)
Bearing Seperator (for rear bearing only)
2-arm gear puller (for use with bearing seperator)
Brush Removal
soldering iron
desoldering pump
piece of chicken wire (or small Allen wrench)

Parts List
MD 611566; Alternator Brush; $4.79/ea; Need 2
MD 611397; Front Alternator Bearing; $21.24
MD 611928; Rear Alternator Bearing; $13.45

Alternator Removal Procedure

1. Disconnect the electrical connector going to the A/C Fan Motor
2. Unscrew the 3-10mm bolts holding on the A/C Fan Motor (2 up top, 1 on bottom). Start with the bottom bolt, then do the top 2 (see picture).
3. Remove the lower splash shield (12mm bolts)
4. Remove all the accessory belts
5. Remove both water pump pulleys
6. Remove the electrical connectors going to the alternator. There's 1 plug-type connector and another that's a wire with a loop held on by a nut.
7. Remove the upper alternator brace (12mm bolts)
8. Remove the bottom alternator bolt nut (12mm; see picture)
9. Push the bolt out through to the other side (see picture)
10. Remove the alternator. You'll likely have to rock it back and forth to get it to come out. Pull alternator out through the top.

Brush Removal Procedure

1. Remove the 4 bolts holding the alternator casing together (8mm; see picture). Don't worry it takes a lot more effort to get the case apart.
2. Take a screwdriver and separate the stator (ridged copper looking thing between the 2 halves of the alternator) from the FRONT (pulley side) casing. See picture. You will damage the alternator if you separate the stator from the back casing first.
3. Place aside front casing/alternator assembly. We only need the back casing/stator portion for the rest of this procedure.
4. On the back of the casing remove the nut/plastic washer that connected to the wire/loop electrical connection in the Alternator Removal Step 6. See picture
5. Turn the casing over and look at the regulator/brush portion. Remove the 3 screws holding the electrical assembly on. See picture.
6. You can now remove the status along with the electrical assembly from the rear casing. See picture.
7. Rotate the light brown cover over the 2 solder points for the brushes. Then the small yellow-ish piece covering the holes the brush leads come out. See picture.
8. Remove the solder on the end of the leads.
9. Remove the brushes through the shaft side of the assembly
10. Put a new rush in (only 1 at this time)
11. You will see a hole from the front of the assembly through to the back. Be sure that you can push the brush up and see all the way through that hole. If you can't, remove the brush and rotate it 180 degrees and try again. This time you should see all the way through.
12. Repeat above for the second brush.
13. Solder the end of the brush wire to the contact where the old brush was. Be careful: Don't trim any of the brush wire off. The brush needs to be able to slide down as it wears so don't make the leads tight.
14. When complete with both brushes, push the brushed up and fit a piece of wire of small allen wrench through the hole in the brush assembly. This allows you to put the alternator back together and not have the brushes in the way of the shaft. When the alternator is totally back together, you remove the wire or wrench to engage the brushes.

Bearing Removal Procedure

1. Repeat Steps 1 and 2 in the Brush Removal Procedure
2. Take the impact wrench (22mm) and remove the nut holding on the alternator pulley and remove the pulley.
3. Unscrew the 4 bolts holding on the bearing retainer. See picture
4. Take a hammer and socket extension and bang the shaft out of the front casing. See picture.
5. Now use the socket extension to remove the front bearing from its socket. See picture.
6. Put the bearing seperator and 2-jaw gear puller in place. See picture.
7. Seperate the rear bearing
8. Replace the bearings

END