...In car rod bearing change

[colo]

OK first off I know this isnt the right way to fix my problem. I think I have a slightly spun rod bearing (1g AWD 5 speed). I can hear a lower end knock when I start my Talon. It last 1-2 seconds. I can't hear it when it is at idle. I can't hear the noise if is out of gear and I rev it, unless I rev it and keep it rev'd around 2000-4500 rpms.

When Im am driving, I cant hear it untill I shift at ~ 3000rpms. I cant hear it on the way up to 3 k, but only when I engage the clutch, and the rpms drop off. I can hear it as the revs drop off.

Anyway, Im going to drop the oil pan, check the rods and try to replace the rod bearings in car, If it turns out to be the problem. I need to know how big of deal this is going to be. I know the X-member, and t-case need to be removed (Also DP?) I also need a list of all the gaskets and other small things Im going to need replace. I.E. oil pan gasket, etc.

If it is a spun bearing, and the crank isnt to bad, what grit of emery cloth should I use to polish the crank.

Again I know this isnt the right way to fix the problem, but I figured I would give it a shot, before it gets worse. If it doesnt fix the problem I will just drive it till it get super bad. Plus it isnt my DD. I plan on doing a full rebuild/stroker this summer, if time/money permits.

Thanks for any help,

Tyler B.

 

[SBR Joe]

Ive done this before, dont plan on it lasting very long, a few thousand miles at least if its not too bad. I just used steel wool and cleaned the crank up best i can, or use a scotch brite pad. Emery cloth would work too, it would have to be a pretty fine grit.

Joe

 

[Stainbox12]

We are talking here about clearances. Once you lose them, there's no way, that sanding any piece like a crank, would solve your problem. Use plastigauge, and make the necessary measurements to check if the crank itself is not damaged. Sometimes, you won't be able to feel or simply look a bad crank. In answer to your question, yes. You can change rod bearings with the crank in the car, but most likely it won't work, and if you have rod knock, i would forget about it. Rod knock, is caused when the rod itself dances in the crank. And don't worry about your low knock noise, it will get worst within time. You can also cause serious damage to an engine, with a constant rod knock, like locking up the engine. Just think about it. Good luck with whatever decision you take.

 

[dsm-onster]

How do you know one of the rod bearings is out? Just by the sound? I'd check for shavings in the oil filter. Any flopping around by the rods will mean enough metal has been rubbed off to notice it in the oil.

 

[BUCK]

I did it - But while you are down there check your Mains FIRST, if they are bad you might as well stop right there & jerk the Motor - Your profile is incomplete so if you haven't done the BSE it very well may be a BALANCE SHAFT BEARING & not a Rod Bearing, the Rod Bearings will go NEXT.

 

[turboglenn]

I had this same problem on my freshly built 6 bolt, it had eaten 2 sets of main bearings because the guy who sized the crank for the ARP studs didn't do it right. I changed out 2 sets on a lift with the motor in the car. I did rod and mains the first time and just mains the 2nd time. And i still had to pull the motor to get it fixed. The only reason i kept replacing the ones it was eating was for it to last while i waited on my second 6 bolt to get to me and put together. Just plan on pulling the motor, you're gonna have to if there's issues in the bearings of the bottom end. Something will have to be machined, you can count on that.

 

[colo]

I did it - But while you are down there check your Mains FIRST, if they are bad you might as well stop right there & jerk the Motor - Your profile is incomplete so if you haven't done the BSE it very well may be a BALANCE SHAFT BEARING & not a Rod Bearing, the Rod Bearings will go NEXT.

How does a Balance shaft bearing sound when it is going bad? The car is stock, other then a K&N, but the guy I bought it off of said it had one balnce shaft removed... I dont think that is the case. Who removes one shaft?

Tyler B.

 

[colo]

We are talking here about clearances. Once you lose them, there's no way, that sanding any piece like a crank, would solve your problem. Use plastigauge, and make the necessary measurements to check if the crank itself is not damaged. Sometimes, you won't be able to feel or simply look a bad crank. In answer to your question, yes. You can change rod bearings with the crank in the car, but most likely it won't work, and if you have rod knock, i would forget about it. Rod knock, is caused when the rod itself dances in the crank. And don't worry about your low knock noise, it will get worst within time. You can also cause serious damage to an engine, with a constant rod knock, like locking up the engine. Just think about it. Good luck with whatever decision you take.

1. I know that excessive clearance, bearing wore out, is what is causing what is left of the rod bearing to hit the crank. The thin lair of oil can’t support the extra clearance. My thought is if I can gain that excessive clearance back (Replace bearing) before there is too much damage to the crank then it might work.

2. I know it will get worst with time.

3. I know serious damage will occur if I keep driving it. The only thing I am worried about is block damage. (I plan on .20 bore over, high miles 150,xxx) I plan on doing a 2.3 striker, so the block is the only lower end part I will need. Plus it is winter time; just got another 8+ inches of snow today, The AWD is super nice.


Tyler B.

 

[SBR Joe]

How does a Balance shaft bearing sound when it is going bad? The car is stock, other then a K&N, but the guy I bought it off of said it had one balnce shaft removed... I dont think that is the case. Who removes one shaft?

Tyler B.

A spun BS bearing sounds just like rod knock. And they probably removed the rear shaft and left the front one chilling, i cant see the sense doing it opposite....but who knows

Joe

 

[BUCK]

but the guy I bought it off of said it had one balnce shaft removed... I dont think that is the case. Who removes one shaft?

Tyler B.

The most logical GUESS would be the previous guy pulled the BELT for the Front Balance Shaft, which is a pretty half assed way to go - If you like your Motor do the BSE properly while you are in there & have the Pan dropped - Good Tech Articles on all this.

 

[TerribleTSi]

+1 ^^^
also the BSE makes the care more reliable (less components to go bad)
and you get a performance increase. i'm not sure exactly what kind of increase numbers wise but it feels like it revs quicker.

 

[colo]

Okay, so I found the problem....rod bearings. The top half of each bearing showed more wear then the bottom side. Rod bearing 4 was the worst. They werent worn in the middle, but the sides had pitting, and you could see where they were flaking off. I got them changed and so far no knocks. I dont plan on that to last forever. The crank didnt have any major damage, but I went ahead and polished it. In hopes that would help....we'll see.

On the BS, it DID look like the rear BS was removed. They was only a little shaft in place of it. If Im looking in the right place. One thing I did noticed, it looked like the rear Shaft had started to dig into the block before it was removed. If you are under the car looking up at crankshast, The area to the right of the rear balance shaft bearing was all wore out looking. Is the block this way from the factory? For shaft clearance. Also, there was a bolt/plug from that came in from the outside of the block into where the rear BS bearing would sit. The belt for them was hooked up. Also, the front shaft sits up higher (closer to the head) correct? It is passed the crankshaft, as where the rear one sits lower/or even with the crankshaft middle...I don't know what it would be if that isnt the front BS. If it is the Front BS, it was fine. I tried to move it, to see if there was any play, but it was tight.

Tyler B.

 

[killer_eclipse]

well if you have no rear balance shaft then you dont want the front balance shaft belt on...