Newbie ForumBeginner/newbie/general DSM questions. first mods, how to run 10's when you haven't run 12's yet, any tech question that doesn't fit in another tech forum. New Members must limit their tech posts to this forum and sub-forums.
I recently bought a 1990 GSX 5sp, and i would like to know if there is any axle out there for the driver side that delets the hanger bearing. because the bolts on the block are broken.
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you'll have to try and back the bolts out so that you can replace them with new ones thats pretty much your only option unless you have another block or motor which really wouldn't be worth it
Last edited by Defiant; 12-25-2007 at 01:06 AM.
Reason: "U" is not "you".
well the bolts they don't go all the way in, i order 2 new bolts from the dealer thinking the bolts used buy the kid that owned before where too big. but still they don't fit.
dang that sucks... I wonder if the longer FWD axle would fit (you'd have to make sure that the tranny's side has the same number of splines on it though). -Enter the FWD world of wheel hop & torque steer though!
-I'll be it it's not the best solution but it's probably a lot easier then removing the block to drill, tap, and heli-coil the old half-axle mounting bolt holes.
sears sells a tool that is great for getting those out of the block.. cant remember the name of it but with a 90* drill and this tool they come right out..
it is like a drill bit and an easy out combined into one tool, put it in drill, put drill on reverse, and as it drilling it puts some type of pressure and tries to snag the bolt and twist it out...
any one with dsm's should have these... they are in a 3 piece set at sears
I got the gsx for 500 dallars of this kid that was trying to mod it. before i bought it he replaced the head gasket and he broke two of the fuel rail bolts the hanger bearing bolts, the bolts for the support braket for the intake manifold. i have 3 valve steam seal leaking, a bad trow out bearing. and god knows what else is wrong. what is the cheapest route? send it out to get fixed buy a local DSM shop or buy a engine and do the swap myself?
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoostedTalonTS
dang that sucks... I wonder if the longer FWD axle would fit (you'd have to make sure that the tranny's side has the same number of splines on it though). -Enter the FWD world of wheel hop & torque steer though!
-I'll be it it's not the best solution but it's probably a lot easier then removing the block to drill, tap, and heli-coil the old half-axle mounting bolt holes.
has any one done this before?
Quote:
Originally Posted by yamaha4life89
so wait are the bolts broken in the block or the ones your orderd from the dealer are to small?
yes all the bolts broken in the block.
Quote:
Originally Posted by xtreme-elements
sears sells a tool that is great for getting those out of the block.. cant remember the name of it but with a 90* drill and this tool they come right out..
it is like a drill bit and an easy out combined into one tool, put it in drill, put drill on reverse, and as it drilling it puts some type of pressure and tries to snag the bolt and twist it out...
any one with dsm's should have these... they are in a 3 piece set at sears
my buddy has the snapon set, but its too much work to fix i rather send it out.
depending on how much you know about cars you should beable to fix the stuff yourself there should be no reason why you should have to replace the motor unless it is shot. broken bolts and a bad throw out bearing doesnt mean you need a new motor. the main things i would be conserned about is getting the 2 fuel rail bolts out and replacing them. so that you can see how the car runs then worry about the axel if you cant get the bolts out for the bearing boostedtalonts had a good idea about using the fwd axel that would work the spindle sizes are the same for the fwd 1.8 2.0 and 2.0 turbo as the awd your just gonna have a litle bit of vibration and not have the extra support without the bearing. About the throw out bearing that not to big of a deal of replacing and while your in there u have the opertunity to replace the clutch with a aftermarket one.
yea just be sure to try and get the broken bolts out before you go and start drilling and taping it. Its always better to try and not take the chance of drilling or taping it out wrong.
A Milwaukee 90 degree "bumblebee" Drill, some damn good SHORT Drill Bits & square ez out is your only hope & it's still pure hell - This is one of the worst jobs EVER on a DSM - PERIOD - Search "Carrier Bearing" & you'll see the war stories...
ok. wait a sec..... If you already have a bad TOB AND the half-axle & intake plenum mounting bolt threads are FUBAR, why don't you just pull the engine to take care of everything at the same time:
A) swap in a decent clutch (as previously mentioned) & new TOB
B) Drill, tap, and heli-coil the half-axle mounting bolt holes in the block with it OUTside of the car.
C) Drill, tap, and heli-coil the intake plenum brace mounting hole in the block with it OUTside of the car.
D) Replace any leaking gaskets with the motor out of the car.
E) Don't worry about the head just yet you can tackle that another time as it's easily removed from up top anyways.
-90* drills??!! With the car on a rack MAYBE but up on jackstands? -Bolt extraction combined with poor angles, PLUS hot metal shavings falling on you isn't my idea of fun. I'd just say F it and pull the motor, refresh what you can and save time and keep from repeating yourself in the process.
I concur with BoostedTalonTS - With all those problems just jerk the Motor/Tranny Assembly - & I DID drill & remove my wrung off Carrier Bearing Fasteners out with it on Jack Stands - & as I said, it was a BITCH & had I not worked on Submarines for 20 years I probably never would have even TRIED - I think the Drill MOTOR alone was like $160.
i am gona try the fwd axle, cause i need the car running, so that i can take my evo off the streets to do the AMS 37R Kit install. and than after that i am gona pull the motor out and rebuilt it.
i just want to be sure if it fits, has anyone done this before? if not i am just gona buy the fwd axle and try.
Take the intermediate shaft out count the splines and go to a place that have the fwd axles in stock and count the splines on that and it they both have the same numbers then all you have to worry about is clearing the transfercase....you might try a junk yard first too
i see, i am gona try the front fwd axle first if dosen't work i will have to remove those broken bolts.
I think that the FWD axle will work, provided that you are able to remove the existing half-axle and the broken off bolts in order for the longer FWD axle to fit.
I'd assume it's the same spline pitch & count as an old FWD trick for reducing wheel hop & torque steer is to install an AWD half-axle and equal length driver's side axle... Until you get the block out and those bugered threads repaired, the longer FWD sounds like a simple/cheap temporary solution. BUT since you already have a list of things to do that require removing the block anyways, I'd just fix them all at the same time.
driver side axle Question
