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90' tsi awd code reader?

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19 psi

Probationary Member
1
0
Dec 16, 2007
isu, Iowa
hi this is my first post here. i dont have a laptop or palm. i wanted to know the best/cheapest way i can get some codes to read so's i can start to work on this thing...I assume its a obd1, never had an obd1 only 2's so im a real n00b here. but my car does need some work....its idling at about 3 grand and it just squirted a nice stream of oil all over the the under side of the hood, right in the area above the belts....:beatentodeath:
 
Nice to see another DSM in the area.

They do have OBD1 code readers but in my opinion the easiest way is using the "blinking CEL" method. You ground the correct pin on the OBD plug and turn the key ON and the CEL will blink. Im not sure exactly what pins they are, but Im sure the vfaq or the Haynes/Chilton manual will.
 
just get a data logger, it will tell you cel codes, and it also help you tune when you get to that point with the car.
 
Yeah get a logger. I have a palm iii xe. their like 20 bucks off ebay or amazon. MMCD is free. The logger should be one of the first mods you do. It'll help you understand your car more. If you want the real deal and are willing to spend a little bit more, then get the pocketlogger combo. The cable is better, and the program that comes with it is too.
 
19 psi said:
i wanted to know the best/cheapest way i can get some codes to read so's i can start to work on this thing.

The best way is a datalogger, the cheapest way depends on if you already own an analog volt meter. If you do then you attach the red probe to pin 1 on the DLC connector and the black to ground. Then read/count the number of long and short deflections on the meter.

If you don't have an analog volt meter then it's a toss up between buying a 12v LED (LED and series resistor) or a 12v piezo buzzer (273-059) from Radio Shack and some microclips to connect them to the DLC. Both can be had for less then $5. Big D pointed you to the VFAQ and you'll find the procedure and description of the error codes.

I'm pretty sure there isn't a KeyOnEngineOff test by shorting pins on a stock 1G DSM.
I put code in my chips to flash out any CEL code if there isn't a datalogger connected but I didn't see any code that would otherwise do it.
 
The best way is a datalogger, the cheapest way depends on if you already own an analog volt meter. If you do then you attach the red probe to pin 1 on the DLC connector and the black to ground. Then read/count the number of long and short deflections on the meter.

If you don't have an analog volt meter then it's a toss up between buying a 12v LED (LED and series resistor) or a 12v piezo buzzer (273-059) from Radio Shack and some microclips to connect them to the DLC. Both can be had for less then $5. Big D pointed you to the VFAQ and you'll find the procedure and description of the error codes.

I'm pretty sure there isn't a KeyOnEngineOff test by shorting pins on a stock 1G DSM.
I put code in my chips to flash out any CEL code if there isn't a datalogger connected but I didn't see any code that would otherwise do it.

No, the best way is to get a code reader, or the other method is the one we are talking about here, manually doing it. But the OP wants the cheapest way possible, and that is not always doing things the right way either. Piezoelectric sensors can be tested other ways, but u aren't supossed to use 12v low impadence testers or even 12v test lights on any PCM circuit, including the DLC connectors, they can damage the circuits beyond repair. And like I said, the monitors for 93-95 and before aren't fully complete, so they won't be the same as the OBD2 setups, they weren't mandated like the ones after 1996. Just get a Haynes or a Chilton manual, and read the proper way to get codes from your specific model and year. Then follow the flow chart and go from there to diagnose and troubleshoot your codes (if any). And you are supossed to retrieve codes with the KOEO method, that's any standard for flow charts. Now if you want to use freeze frame or serial data, then you can retrieve them that way.
 
Dragon TalonTsi said:
Piezoelectric sensors can be tested other ways, but u aren't supossed to use 12v low impadence testers or even 12v test lights on any PCM circuit, including the DLC connectors, they can damage the circuits beyond repair. And like I said, the monitors for 93-95 and before aren't fully complete, so they won't be the same as the OBD2 setups, they weren't mandated like the ones after 1996. Just get a Haynes or a Chilton manual, and read the proper way to get codes from your specific model and year. Then follow the flow chart and go from there to diagnose and troubleshoot your codes (if any). And you are supossed to retrieve codes with the KOEO method, that's any standard for flow charts. Now if you want to use freeze frame or serial data, then you can retrieve them that way.

Your off in left field again.

I never said anything about Piezoelectric sensors. The piezo buzzer is to hear the pulses. It only uses 10ma which is quite safe to use on the output of the diagnostic connector. The LED will draw 20-30ma depending on which resistor is used. It is also safe.

There aren't "monitors" in the 1G ECU to speak of in the same sense that OBD2 has monitors. Since the OP has a 1G monitors and KeyOnEngineOff test talk is just confusing the issue and have nothing to do with the question asked.

If you would read the real factory manuals you would find out that your suggesting nonsense. There is no KOEO method or freeze frame on the 1G ECUs and the serial data protocol used is somewhat unique to Mitsubishi. The 1G Datalogger implements the serial data command/reply protocol used. Reading the codes is a small part of what it does. The 1G datalogger interface cable can also be made for less than $10 but since the OP doesn't have a suitable computer I didn't dwell on it.

The VFAQ page documents the 1G diagnostic error codes that the ECU uses and provides one way to read them.
 
You've probably already figured this out, but just in case someone else comes along here in the future...
That mystery oil stream under the hood? That'd most likely be your dipstick blowing out under boost and then getting sucked back in under vacuum after you stop the car to look under the hood. Sneaky little bastards.
 
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