The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

[RESOLVED] Major! issues with my 92 DSM TURBO HELP

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

did the guy swap the wiring harness aswell?
yes a turbo rebuild kit will work in your NT block.
the NT motor will only work for so long before it kills over.
yes you can swap the oil pan as long as they are both 6bolt or both 7bolt.
research the wiring it is a BIG deal when converting to turbo.
go to VFAQ.com
 
No the wiring was 1.8 wiring I removed the wiring completely I even installed the Turbo dash and entire wiring harness and stuff from my 1990 Turbo Talon TSI.
 
Don't take this as a personal attack... but you said "I am slightly stupid and would have trouble following the steps".... So I'm having a hard time understanding why you are talking about all this work that you have done (or are doing). Form what I can tell, this looks like some fairly involved work to get a car running from this combination of parts. Sounds like you may want to enlist the help of someone locally if possible that has a bit of experience in this type of project.

Speaking of "what I can tell"... you REALLY need to use some paragraphs, and lose the run-on sentences. I got half-way through your post and just stopped reading... because it makes my head hurt :)

Nothing personal...just some general advice... hopefully someone else can get a bit more specific for you.

Good luck!
 
I dont plan to drive it that much anyways and I also have 2 turbo oil pans but dont know if they are 6 bolt or 7 bolt.
 
I really don't need help I have been in Auto Body for 2 years and have been working with vehicles since I was a kid. I have a learning disability and have trouble with some things for example typing. But I am new to turbo's and was just being sure all my work wasn't worthless also I did allot more to this car then I listed but like you said I didn't want to have talk and talk more then needed. But what I said what I thought was important sorry but that's just how I am...


Don't take this as a personal attack... but you said "I am slightly stupid and would have trouble following the steps".... So I'm having a hard time understanding why you are talking about all this work that you have done (or are doing). Form what I can tell, this looks like some fairly involved work to get a car running from this combination of parts. Sounds like you may want to enlist the help of someone locally if possible that has a bit of experience in this type of project.

Speaking of "what I can tell"... you REALLY need to use some paragraphs, and lose the run-on sentences. I got half-way through your post and just stopped reading... because it makes my head hurt :)

Nothing personal...just some general advice... hopefully someone else can get a bit more specific for you.

Good luck!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Well I already put the turbo fuel rail and injectors in with new o rings, but I still have yet to do the fuel system besides that the only thing I need help with, I have two turbo oil pans but dont know if they are 6 bolt or 7 bolt.
 
I would've beat the $200 out of the guy and walked away from that deal. I've picked up two running driving 90 rs turbo cars for $500 each. No rust and Iowa is a rust belt state. If your in autobody a perfect body should've been your least concern. I'd consider dumping what you have and find a turbo car once you get on your feet. Your working way harder than you should be.
 
Yea LOL me to but I am very happy with the car and am keeping it. And the body isn’t perfect it just has 0 RUST and I hate rust, and that’s your opinion but I happen to enjoy working with cars it is a passion for me not just a hobby.

I would've beat the $200 out of the guy and walked away from that deal. I've picked up two running driving 90 rs turbo cars for $500 each. No rust and Iowa is a rust belt state. If your in autobody a perfect body should've been your least concern. I'd consider dumping what you have and find a turbo car once you get on your feet. Your working way harder than you should be.
 
LOL I already know the cars inside and out I own 3 DSM's and work on them every chance I get!. And I also own a 4x4 truck for winter I also work on alot, I just love DSM's they are amazing. I also have accumulated a lot of spare parts, Ok but lets get back on the subject the only thing I need help with now, I have 2 turbo oil pans but dont know if they are 6 bolt or 7 bolt thanks for the help so far everyone.
 
Well I guess I am lucky because the non turbo engine is a 7 bolt and the turbo oil pan I bought off ebay was also a 7 bolt. So now all I have left to do is buy an engine rebuild kit and new timing belt and get it running right I don’t think I have a boost solenoid though...
 
I have a few questions after reading some forums about 92-94 Turbo DSM’s.

The 1G Translator - will allow the user to use a late model GM MAF sensor on and 1st Gen Talon or Eclipse turbo car. This will greatly improve airflow and spool. It can also be used as a blow through unit so that the blow off valve can be vented into the atmosphere with no bad effects. Also have controls to adjust the air fuel ratio and compensate for larger fuel injectors eliminating the need for other more expensive units like the AFC.

Isnt the 2 g MAF better then doing anything esle?

1. So if you install AFC or Translator on your car there would have no need for a recirculation kit? Which is the better way to go? but will a recirculation kit help your car in any way? Or even though the AFC is more expensive is the AFC worth it more then a Translator. Can a recirculation kit work with these or is it a waste? (Most the time the more expensive parts are better) what would be the best setup?

O2 Sensor Housing - 90 degree elbow called the O2 Sensor Housing. The O2 sensor screws into this housing. The stock unit can be ported out, or you can simply buy a better flowing unit. If you choose to go with a "turbo-back" exhaust system, this housing will automatically be replaced.

2. I am not sure I understand the term "turbo-back" how would that replace the 02 sensor wouldn’t that be a bad thing I don’t understand isn’t the 02 needed or is there a better place to relocate the 02?

Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks and sorry if I sounded dumb I just need it explained better.



Well I guess I am lucky because the non turbo engine is a 7 bolt and the turbo oil pan I bought off ebay was also a 7 bolt. So now all I have left to do is buy an engine rebuild kit and new timing belt and get it running right I don’t think I have a boost solenoid though...
 
GM MAF translators are great units but pretty difficult to tune. AFC has limits but is good, i run AFC with my 2gMAS on 660cc injectors. you can get ECU upgrades that allow you to vent the BOV.
always remember simple rule of thumb -when more air is added, more fuel MUST be added-

yes you can port the stock 02 housing. or you can buy tubular high flow unit. it's all about the dollar my friend.

high horsepower guys buy the O2 eliminator down pipes. they usually have stand alone engine management though to compensate for any changes they make.
 
So I could install - Translator what would I be able to run with that? O and money wise my car is an empty pit! LOL. The more I make the more I spend on it! :) :laser:
 
Few more questions...

1. Right now I have STOCK rubber hoses for my ICP and need to buy a new one. I also want a better BOV - right now I have stock turbo and BOV. But I am trying to find what ICP/BOV system would work the best with my stock turbo for now - for cheap?

2. Plymouth’s ABS (System) as talked about on this site. The ABS in the Lasers is the worst among DSM’S. But if you plan to drive your car only in summer time how would you remove the ABS from a DSM would any problem occur from removing the ABS?

Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks and sorry if I sounded dumb I just need it explained better.
 
it sounds like you are approaching this project in a manner that will lead to failure. you're focusing on way too many things at once. ther's no sense in worrying about a 2g maf or abs elimination before you even have the engine running right and all the bugs ironed out.

take it one step at a time.
use you n/t block if you want to. just make sure you put the oil squirters in from a turbo block.
if the harness is all from a turbo car, you're all set.
but you said you hav e aturbo engine sitting there, so why not just rebuilt that and use it? forget about the n/t engine you have in the car. just take it easy on that until your turbo engine is finished. take a weekend and swap it out. then get it running smoothly and figure out what you want to do from there.
 
Yea true...thanks for the boost of confidence- I have come along very far and but alot of time work and money into this car (non turbo) and I am not turning back that would be dumb, Anyways I will repost when I get the engine closer to running during Christmas I will have more time to work on it. But eventually I want to do a full over haul on my 6 bolt turbo/transmission then drop it in because it will be easy that way. So I can drive the car with the non turbo for now and save money for my turbo engine to fix it. Also I am not doing anything besides new ICP to the non turbo engine maybe a new BOV. I was asking some questions for future reference AKA for my turbo engine when it is runing but thanks for the help any more would be appreciated.

Jeff


it sounds like you are approaching this project in a manner that will lead to failure. you're focusing on way too many things at once. ther's no sense in worrying about a 2g maf or abs elimination before you even have the engine running right and all the bugs ironed out.

take it one step at a time.
use you n/t block if you want to. just make sure you put the oil squirters in from a turbo block.
if the harness is all from a turbo car, you're all set.
but you said you hav e aturbo engine sitting there, so why not just rebuilt that and use it? forget about the n/t engine you have in the car. just take it easy on that until your turbo engine is finished. take a weekend and swap it out. then get it running smoothly and figure out what you want to do from there.
 
I installed a (turbo) starter? onto the non turbo transmission?, it's bigger but not as long but I don't know for sure if it is a tubo starter?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Ok I know everything now, but I will post when I try and get it running I am sure I will find some problem but I don't know yet ill keep you guys updated.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Ok terminaltsi stated: use your n/t block if you want to. just make sure you put the oil squirters in from a turbo block - Well I can not help but think that that would not work turbo engine is 6 bolt - put the oil squirters from my turbo onto my 7 bolt non turbo?, That’s a bit of difference I am not sure the information he stated was correct I could be wrong, but I need someone who would knows if what he was talking about was correct!

it sounds like you are approaching this project in a manner that will lead to failure. you're focusing on way too many things at once. ther's no sense in worrying about a 2g maf or abs elimination before you even have the engine running right and all the bugs ironed out.

take it one step at a time.
use you n/t block if you want to. just make sure you put the oil squirters in from a turbo block.
if the harness is all from a turbo car, you're all set.
but you said you hav e aturbo engine sitting there, so why not just rebuilt that and use it? forget about the n/t engine you have in the car. just take it easy on that until your turbo engine is finished. take a weekend and swap it out. then get it running smoothly and figure out what you want to do from there.
 
your n/t engine is a 7 bolt? forget about rebuilding the nt engine. you have a factory turbo 6 bolt sitting there, just rebuild that, and drop it in the car.
the squirters would work in the 7 bolt, but why go to all that trouble if you have another engine already out ready for arebuild?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top