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Need Major Help!! I Get A Clicking But Not Whine- Fuel Pump

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bjbaxter

15+ Year Contributor
115
0
Mar 19, 2006
parkesburg, Pennsylvania
Wats goin on guys?!?

OK, this is the problem that I am having and I'm looking for any information or guidance to it. My 98 Gst just shut off while I was driving it one day down the road.:( I wasn't beating it or anything while I was driving it either. So I had it towed home and hooked it up to an OBDII scanner and came up with a crankshaft sensor fault. So I got that out and it was actually broke into 2 pieces so i thought that was my only problem. Well I got everything back together and went for my first startup since it ran last time and it wouldnt start. I am getting no spark or anything so im thinking it may be the fuel pump relay. When i turned the key on to "acc" all i got was a click(no whine after it like there should be). The car would turn over and all but just wouldnt start up. I am having the hardest time trying to figure out ### the hell is goin on:mad: If the fuel pump relay is bad, would it cause the problems that i am having?? If anyone can give me some help here, it would be the greatest relief I've had in a long ass time. Thanks alot guys!!:dsm:
 
The Fuel pump will only kick on while you are cranking the car. It sounds like you still have some issues with the crank sensor. Did you check to see if you had any crank walk?
 
The crank is good. But there should definately be a little "whine" when the car is turned to accesories, and there isnt. I checked that out for sure on the 2g Talon that I have as well. When the fuel pump relay is bad it wont allow the ecu to send spark to the coils, i do know that for sure. I just wanted to know if any of you had similar problems an how you went about fixing them, or how you guys can give me a hand fixing mine. thanks again
 
Hmmm. Well I am building the engine in my buddies GST and he needed some gas out of his tank (cars always seem to blow up after you fill them up) So I unhooked the starter signal wire and had to hold the key to the start (turning over the engine position) to get the fuel pump to kick on (his was a 95). On my 95 Talon, my fuel pump will only kick on while it is cranking (I know this b/c my walboro is loud). I would get a Noid light and hook it to one of your injector wires to see if you are getting a signal. Or you can physically see if you are getting fuel from the rail but be careful.
 
DSMDirkah is correct. The fuel pump will only kick on while you are cranking the car. That is a fact.
 
Listen guys, im not tryin to be a smartass or anything like that but if you listen close enough, you can hear a wind when the key is turned to the "acc" position. I thought i was mixing things up after i got the first reply so I went and did it on our jeep and dodge truck as well as the talon again, and they all did it. Its a whine noise that comes from the back, and i thought it may have been the fuel pump kicking on. If thats not ### u guys think it is, then here's another question. Is there some kind of emergency shut off switch in the back of the car or underneath the car that kinda "flips" if something is goin wrong with the car so no fuel is allowed to leave the tank??? I know a lot of cars have them, just not sure if mine does. Lemme know guys, THANKS:thumb:
 
Fuel cut off switch? I had a Ford Escort that had one of those and they were annoying.. But no, DSM's do not have such switch. You are correct that other cars do make a humming sound with the car keyed on. Not your car though. Try the noid light, I think it might show you that your problem does have something to do with the crank sensor.
 
Check out this thread. Apply power to the blue connector near your battery. This is the test connector for the fuel pump. See if the fuel pump turns on when you do that.
 
But the Talon that I have makes the whining noise, No Lie!! haha. Maybe it is just the pump getting ready to go?!? IDK, but im definately goin to do the fuel pump test and see if that works for me. I'll let u guys know how i make out. Once again, thank you all very much for helpin me out, I appreciate it. If you can come up with any other ideas in the mean time, please leave them for me, Im taking anything I can get at this point. :dsm:
 
But the Talon that I have makes the whining noise, No Lie!! haha. Maybe it is just the pump getting ready to go?!? IDK, but im definately goin to do the fuel pump test and see if that works for me. I'll let u guys know how i make out. Once again, thank you all very much for helpin me out, I appreciate it. If you can come up with any other ideas in the mean time, please leave them for me, Im taking anything I can get at this point. :dsm:

Does the whining noise come from the fuel pump area? Can you take a video of it? This has got me curious now...
 
Maybe its not exactly from the fuel pump area, but its def right around it somewhere. Is there anything else that anyone can think of thats back there?? Actually if u look at the link i was sent, a couple lines into it, it says something about the guy not being able to hear his fuel pump "whining" like it usually does. I'm definately not goin crazy here if someone else has said the same thing(no offense to anyone). But please let me know ### thoughts may cross ## mind. :thumb:
 
Ok, not trying to be rude, but I can tell you for sure that the fuel pump does not turn on with the key in the acc. position.
 
:dsm:Ok well thanks for all your help anyway. Im goin to try to get a quick video tomorrow of how my car sounds and how the talon sounds just so u can understand what im talking about and hearing. If you can think of anything else tonight, please let me know. Thanks again for all your help man:thumb:
 
Im sorry but my car and almost all cars I have driven "prime" when I turn the key on....not to mention my fiancee's GSX, my cousins AWD, and every DSM person around here. Almost all fuel pumps prime when the key is turned to the on position.
 
Im sorry but my car and almost all cars I have driven "prime" when I turn the key on....not to mention my fiancee's GSX, my cousins AWD, and every DSM person around here. Almost all fuel pumps prime when the key is turned to the on position.

Are you saying your fuel pump turns on before you start cranking?
 
:dsm:Yeah, the car cranks over and all just fine, but it just doesnt want to start. Do any of you guys know which wire on the fuel pump(color) i am supposed to supply direct power to?? All you guys' help is greatly appreciated. Im glad someone agreed with me about the "whining" prime that happens when the key is turned to the on position. Thanks again.
 
:dsm:Yeah, the car cranks over and all just fine, but it just doesnt want to start. Do any of you guys know which wire on the fuel pump(color) i am supposed to supply direct power to?? All you guys' help is greatly appreciated. Im glad someone agreed with me about the "whining" prime that happens when the key is turned to the on position. Thanks again.

Check out this thread. Apply power to the blue connector near your battery. This is the test connector for the fuel pump. See if the fuel pump turns on when you do that.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...-drive-connector-check-terminal-location.html
 
Im sorry but my car and almost all cars I have driven "prime" when I turn the key on....not to mention my fiancee's GSX, my cousins AWD, and every DSM person around here. Almost all fuel pumps prime when the key is turned to the on position.

Not owning one of every type of DSM I can only state that the DSMs I've seen do not prime the fuel pump when you turn the ignition on. I've looked at the 1G ECU code and don't see any code that would do so. My 2G EPROM also doesn't but I can't say the all 2G ECUs don't.

Perhaps you are hearing the ISC get initialized or maybe the CAS glitches on power up causing the ECU to think the engine it turning which causes the pump to be turned on. Or maybe some years of 2G do.

You would think it would be well known at this point if any year DSM did prime the pump but instead we get is people every so often who report its happening.
 
Sounds similar to problems I had. I could never figure it out after a head rebuild but it turns out my CAS was dead. I did the 1G CAS swap and it's been working fine ever since.

Something to look into. The 1G CAS' are much better then the 2G ones. I ended up paying like $10 for mine at a junkyard and made the wiring harness myself.
 
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