Tight on $$, Id like 300whp

[GofaST4life]

Everytime i work on my GST i fall more and more in love with it, right now im bring ti back to life due to a real a**hole who pretty much killed it...i know i know, why would i buy a car that was treated like dirt, esp a turbo...but i found the car, and fell in love with it, working on it and driving it, im just now starting to get into the real DSM world...so i come to you guys for advice...

I'm not low on cash, but i cant afford to exactly break the bank with my new found love, id like to have a 300whp GST, keep in mind i like doing work myself and learning new things...

What should i buy for my mainly stock GST to get it around 300whp? What parts should i have a professional install, and any other advice you can throw at me is greatly appreciated.

thankx guys

 

[qiklitltsi]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/sub.php?page=2gtstage1power Follow this guide to start with you should get close to your goal with this.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/sub.php?page=2gtstage2power then use move onto these upgrades if you want more.

 

[winterftbl]

Search is your friend. Many people have asked this before. Just get a big 16g, 550cc injectors, 190 fuel pump, and an afc. Thats the cheapest route. Besides the usual bolt ons like an intake and exhaust.

 

[oldman420]

Normally i would tell you to the 2g upgrade path and tell you to read vfaq.com. but i like you. So hear it is, 300 whp in these vehicles is easily accomplished. 16g, fuel upgrades, remove balance shafts, exhaust and something to tune the rig with and 300 is easy. Use this and vfaq as your bible and you'll be good.

 

[Chicken Patty]

First off let me say that I just got back into the DSM world like three months ago. There is a lot of variety of things you can do. Now the basic in any turbo car is the following:

Get some sort of turbo back exhaust at least 2.5" in diameter. After that a free flowing intake would do great. Once the motor breathes a bit better with the above mods you can go ahead and maybe get something to tune. AFC's work great, but lots of dsmers use DSM link. Just look around and find what best suits you. After these mods you can go ahead and modify your fuel system, like a high output walbro fuel pump, nice set of injectors,etc. Frount mount intercoolers help drastically. Then once you have your car set up you can get the turbo of your choice keeping in mind the upgrades you have done. To hit 300whp, you need I would say a minimum of about a EVOIII big 16g. But look around there are millions of turbo choices for dsm's. Now i'm sure everybody else agrees with me on the following. No matter how much you waste on your car, how big of a turbo you have, or mods you have done, if you car is not free from any sorts of boost leaks, and does not have a proper tune, either of two things will happen, or both at the same time.

1- Run like crap (boost leaks, and bad tune)
2- Blow (bad tune)

So just ask around see what everybody else has to say, and don't get desperate, just make sure you enjoy it.


About professional installs, im just gonna tell you the only thing I don't do myself is anything that includes welding. Everything else, i look up a how-to and do it myself. If you don't learn and do it yourself, you gotta wind up paying somebody anyways so why not give it a shot.

 

[spooled_u_1st]

Well you really shouldn't need much. 300 hp isn't hard to break.

- logger
- air intake pipe and filter
- manual boost controller
- boost gauge
- hard UICP with 1g bov
- catback exhaust
- fuel injectors (550 or 660)
- fuel management system (Super AFC II)
- 190 lph fuel pump with rewire

 

[Chicken Patty]

Oh, and don't forget somewhere along the way your gonna need a clutch and some sort of monitoring like wideband air/fuel gauge, boost gauge, etc.

 

[GofaST4life]

is 300whp attainable with a T25 turbo?

 

[spooled_u_1st]

Good thinking I forgot about that.

Your going to definitely upgrade your clutch. And a LM-1.

 

[spooled_u_1st]

No your either going to need a T28 or 16g.

 

[Chicken Patty]

is 300whp attainable with a T25 turbo?

nope I believe they max out at 220whp. Just how the above person said, minimum Big t-28 or evoIII big 16g

 

[TearsForTalon]

I think I'm sitting around 280-300whp right now with a Evo316G turbo (clipped and ported), intake, exhaust, and Autronic.

One of the first things that went on me was the clutch. Ended up going with a Competion Clutch 0420 kit. A good DIY and not too expensive but save yourself the hassle and get it done before hand.

Good luck and welcome.


Oh, and welcome to the addiction.

 

[BoostFrenzy]

I took a look at your mod list, and a turbo timer would be helpful to keep your turbo happy and not dead.

Secondly, start finishing your basic bolt-ons. Full exhaust and intake. But, there are 2 places that need a decision done prior to purchasing them. 1) The exhaust system (downpipe and even O2 housing needs to be purchased based on what you have now, and what turbo you are going to upgrade to (Either the T28 or the 16G variants that you have as "wish" parts). And 2) Your pre and post-turbo intake piping. Both need to be done according to your next turbo selection. Doing this first will give you a strong base in what will be needed for larger turbos. Plus, it will give you added performance. Then it goes on to bettering the fuel system and tunning and turbo system upgrades. And then you can start thinking about internals (Meaning Cams mostly to start). All of these aspects combined should net you around 300hp with a good tune.

And a clutch...get a good clutch.

 

[jlado13]

Most definitely free up exhaust with a new o2 housing, ported, and a solid downpipe along with the rest of the exhaust Like Boost Frenzy said. However, no offense Boost Frenzy, but I don't think you'll have to get into the cams with a 300hp goal.

 

[alfredo]

I would definitely replace the turbo to a 16g if you want to get in the 300 hp area. The stock T25 turbo will maybe at best push 300 but will require a lot of tuning and will not allow you to gain more horsepower once you get tired of 300 hp.

 

[endlessMyk]

You've already got some decent suggestions... the only thing I saw that I have to disagree with is a turbo timer. If you wanna keep your expenses low, don't bother getting one. I'm sure you can take an extra minute (not even) before shutting off your car. Other than that... my suggestions would be:
EvoIII 16g, intake, exhaust, 02 housing, bigger injectors (you could get away with 550s, but I'd go a little higher), fuel pump-255lph, clutch, and of course, aftermarket boost gauge, s-afc, other tuning necessities.

 

[meliketoball]

Just like what everyone stated above, you can probably get a head start on getting a manual boost controller, Open air element Intake Filter cone, and possibly if you want to get your hands a bit dirty, a full exhaust system from after market down pipe, cat-converter and then the cat-back system itself.

But before that, get your car running properly and do its required maintanance before every thing!

And finally after that, you can read some more and learn some more about that road to 300fwhp.

 

[-TunedDSM-]

Don't waste your money on a turbo timer, its really not worth it IMO. I have one, but it was given to me. Just let your car idle for around a minute after you park and spend the $100 elsewhere.

Like everyone else said Intake, Exhaust, 16g turbo, Fuel Upgrades, SAFC and a logger should get you to about 300 relatively easy with a good tune.

Good luck!

 

[BoostFrenzy]

However, no offense Boost Frenzy, but I don't think you'll have to get into the cams with a 300hp goal.

Oh I know this. But having 300hp from a E16g with such a hard kick from the fast spool will spoil anyone. So when the stock cams fall off on the top end, even though you are making power, you don't feel it pull all the way to redline. Cams will gain you even more power, and make the power consistent. (Or you can run cams and less boost to get the same power goal).

Don't waste your money on a turbo timer, its really not worth it IMO. I have one, but it was given to me. Just let your car idle for around a minute after you park and spend the $100 elsewhere.

Time is money my friend. Say for instance you are going to be late (say work or school), and you know it. Do you make yourself even more late by sitting in your car to let the turbo cool down, or do you decide to just shut it off and risk ruining your turbo? It isn't a necessity, but it IS nice to have in certain situations.

Also, the ability to take your key out of the car and have it still running is good in case you just need to run into somewhere only for a moment. You have your keys with you so there is hardly a chance of it getting stolen. So if there is enough time on the timer, you can just insert your key and turn the timer to off and be on your way again.

I did not mention in my original post that it is a must have. It is however, something someone with a turbo car needs to consider if it is a justifiable purchase for them or not. Hell, if anyone has that kind of time to sit in their car every time they need to turn it off, I envy you.

 

[-TunedDSM-]

If you are running late cand cannot afford to sit in your car for an extra 30 seconds, technically you are probably already late and might as well sit and wait.

Also not fully turbo timing the car when you are in a rush is not going to be that big of a deal. But to each his own, if you have the extra cash a turbo timer is a nice novelty but not a neccessity.

 

[meliketoball]

Don't waste your money on a turbo timer, its really not worth it IMO. I have one, but it was given to me. Just let your car idle for around a minute after you park and spend the $100 elsewhere.

Like everyone else said Intake, Exhaust, 16g turbo, Fuel Upgrades, SAFC and a logger should get you to about 300 relatively easy with a good tune.

Good luck!

Sure sure. I would shut my car off right away when my BIG 16G or whatever big expensive turbo I have after driving it hard and seeing the turbo RED HOT! Yeah, the red aluminum is normal and wont DAMAGE any seals or anything related to COKING the turbo. So, yeah its all normal and won't damage anything.

Brosef, think of it this way, you're not going to run 10 miles and hit the sack right away. You need to COOL OFF, the same way in engines!

 

[thekellbeast]

nope I believe they max out at 220whp. Just how the above person said, minimum Big t-28 or evoIII big 16g

SBR hit 400whp on an Evo3 16g, but that was on race, on either a stroker or 2.1 with just about everything under the sun helping it breathe. The OP is probably going to be using pump, so he'll be lucky to hit 300whp on a stock engine with a 16g. I would recommend a bigger turbo (assuming we are talking about pump here) like a tdo5 20g or 50trim.

If he did mean on race gas though, yeah, 16g all the way.

 

[laserspeeddemon]

GAWD!!! This question has been asked SOOOO many times.

550's? SAFC? Not needed.
300 WHP with a T25, sure with NOS.

What you should you do?

1. Air Filter Assembly
1G - K&N Air Filter
2G - K&N Filtercharger Kit
* 1G Tip! – Cut the top of the factory airbox off leaving the front and rear mounting holes intact
* 1G Tip! – Remove the air silencer (the paper filter located behind the MAS)
* 1G Tip! – Remove the smaller of the two honeycombs in the MAS - Do NOT remove the larger one. This modification will allow 2-3 psi more boost before hitting fuel cut
* 2G Tip! – Do NOT remove ANY of the honeycombs - the car will not run smoothly without them

2. Cat-back Exhaust System
AWD with 12 or 13 sec goal:
* Buschur Racing 2.5" Pressbent Aluminized piping with Stainless Muffler and 4" Polished Tip - 1G or 2G (AWD Only)

All Turbo FWD or AWD with sub-12 sec goal:
* Buschur Racing 3" Mandrel Bent Stainless piping and Muffler with 4" Polished Tip - All Turbo FWD and AWD Models

3. Boost or Boost/Vacuum Gauge
The factory Boost Gauge does not actually measure Boost - it merely estimates the what it "thinks" the current boost is based upon calculations involving air temperature and MAS data. Installing a "real" boost gauge is especially important once boost pressures exceed the values the stock gauge records.

We carry SPI, Autometer, and VDO Boost and Boost/Vacuum gauges, as well as 1G, 2G, and 3000GT Gauge Pods to house them.

4. Compressor Bypass Valve (Blow Off Valve) for 95+ Models
The 2G stock BOV is made of plastic and will not hold even moderate boost levels without leaking. We recommend replacing the stock 2G valve with a stock 1G BOV

5. Boost Control
We recommend the use of a Manual Boost Controller like the one that was designed by a well-respected long-time Buschur Racing customer Marc Hallman. It is reasonably priced, works great, and spools up as fast as the best electronic controllers. If you want to run an electronic Boost Controller, we sell the HKS, Apex'i and Greddy units.

6. Fuel Pump
Once you have performed modifications 1-5 above, you'll be able to increase the boost to >16psi if you upgrade the factory fuel pump to one with higher flow. We sell 2 diffent in-tank fuel pumps - one for stock turbo and 16g cars, another for 20g+ cars. Both fuel pumps are better than the in-line HKS fuel pumps because they are easier to install, flow more, and are quieter than an external pump.

7. Test Pipe
This modification eliminates your catalytic converter and is designed for offroad use ONLY. Expect the exhaust tone to increase slightly, and for the power to come on more strongly when the turbo spools up. We also sell high flow catalytic converters for street use.

8. Downpipe
Replacing the stock downpipe will greatly improve the performance of your car at high RPMs. Some of our customer cars have ran as fast as mid-11's on our least expensive 2.5" aluminized, pressbent downpipes. We also build and sell 2.5" and 3" stainless, mandrel-bent downpipes. A 3" downpipe without sufficient port work (see below), and external wastegate can cause boost creep.

9. Port Work
Using a die grinder and carbide bit, port your O2 housing, exhaust manifold housing, and turbine housing. This will make your turbo spool up faster, relieve unwanted backpressure, and increase your top-end power.

Port work has the added benefit of improving engine reliablity since less backpressure causes less strain on your engine, resulting in longer engine life.

You can send your parts to us for porting if you don't have access to the equipment to port your exhaust parts.

10. Ported 2G Exhaust Manifold
If you have a 1G, you may want to replace the 1G exhaust manifold with a higher-flowing, ported 2G manifold. We sell the 95+ exhaust manifolds in ported or unported styles at competitive prices!

11. High-Performance Clutch
The stock clutch will allow much of the new power at the crank to slip past the flywheel and your car won't "feel" as fast as it really is. A new clutch will also improve your 60' times at the track since it transfers more power to the ground.

We prefer the ACT 2100 or 2600 lb clutches. An added benefit it that the clutch discs are replaceable without replacing the pressure plate.

The ACT 2100 will hold enough power to propel you car into the high 11's.

The ACT 2600 will hold as much power as a DSM can produce! There is a significant increase in pedal pressure over stock with this clutch.

12. 16G upgrade for 1G Automatics and 2Gs
The 16g upgrade (described in Stage 2), is required for 1G Autos or 2Gs to reach the peak Stage 1 performance level.


At this point in the buildup, you should have spent no more than $1200, if you performed the labor yourself. Your car will now be nearing the 300hp mark. A really well-tuned Stage 1 AWD car can achieve ET's as quick as 12.40's at a trap speed of 109mph with these simple modifications.

 

[LTUDSM]

look at my profile,and you will see what i got and how many whp do i have i expected more but ehhh... im still happy

 

[Chicken Patty]

GAWD!!! This question has been asked SOOOO many times.

550's? SAFC? Not needed.
300 WHP with a T25, sure with NOS.

What you should you do?

damn, hahaha it doesn't get any better than that . Great job to whoever put this together.