The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Help Rubber Axle Boot Ripped

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Jordanbutter

15+ Year Contributor
267
5
Jan 7, 2006
Colorado Spring, Colorado
I heard a grinding from the driver front wheel when I turned right, I had to drive it three days before I could take a look at it but today I found that the Rubber Boot that goes over where the axle joint connects wheel to axle, is ripped. Did just the boot rip cause its old or do you think something made it rip? Do I just pull the joint out put somemore grease in there and put a new boot on there? Also how driveable is it cause I'm supposed to drive it 160 miles round trip tomorrow. And I drove it in the snow today, will that do anything?
 
A new what I know I need a new boot but what else? Is that the CV joint by the way? Would I need a new one or new axle or just the boot, please god! :cry:
 
If it's making noise you'll need to replace the CV joint.
The quickest way to do that is by replacing the axle.
I've been very happy with the quality and service I've received from Raxles and felt the product was well worth the price.

Steve
 
A new what I know I need a new boot but what else? Is that the CV joint by the way? Would I need a new one or new axle or just the boot, please god! :cry:

http://vfaq.com/mods/CVboots.html

Save yourself the hassle and just buy a new axle from Autzone, Napa, etc. that comes with a lifetime warranty. If you've got some extra money, many people like Raxles, because they're new axles, not rebuilt ones.
 
Ok I have 0 dollars and 0 cents to spare. Would I be Rplacing the part of the axle from the trany or just the wheel to the CV joint?
 
Save yourself the hassle and just buy a new axle from Autzone, Napa, etc. that comes with a lifetime warranty. If you've got some extra money, many people like Raxles, because they're new axles, not rebuilt ones.

I've been using rebuilt axles on customers car's, since day one. I have never heard any complaints or had to replace them.
 
Ok so if its making noise, then its bad. So if its bad can I drive on it one more day or is there something worse I could do?
 
Ok i'm trying to take the axle out now and its nothing like in the VFAQ. I've gotten the whell off and the bolt at the end of the axle off. I took off the caliper and the brakedisk. Now what? My manual is no help at all so Does anyone know of a better VFAQ or how to? Or could you just tell me what to do now?
 
Ok i'm trying to take the axle out now and its nothing like in the VFAQ. I've gotten the whell off and the bolt at the end of the axle off. I took off the caliper and the brakedisk. Now what? My manual is no help at all so Does anyone know of a better VFAQ or how to? Or could you just tell me what to do now?

http://www.columbusdsm.com/resources/knowledge_base/kb_00022_2G_Turbo_FWD_tranny_removal.htm
It will be a little different for you because that's for fwd.

Basically, you remove the lower control arms (I forget if you have to remove both or just one). Unbolt them from the chassis, don't mess with the ball joint side. Then you can remove the axle from the hub by pulling the hub outward. Next, use a crowbar to pop the axle out of the transmission. Be ready for transmission fluid to come out if you didn't drain it already.

Edit: Found you an even better link.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100676
 
I only took out the CV joint to the Wheel Section but I did get it out. It doesn't look in bad shape so was it just grinding cause the was hardly any grease in there? Could I just replace the Boot and put somemore grease in there. Also what grease should I get? Thanks
 
Once the boot tears and the grease exits the boot, dirt, grime, and road debris will enter. This will cause friction between the ball bearings in the joint and will cause them to rapidly deteriorate. That is the clicking and grinding noise you hear. At this point, your options are you neglect the cv shaft and hope it doesn't fail, or replace the shaft. If you're short on funds, start saving right now. A new cv shaft is only about $65 from NAPA. Simply replacing the boot and grease may prolong the life of the joint, but it will not fix the problem.

FYI: The front, driver's side on a 2G AWD DSM is a 2-piece design. There is a solid section that inputs into the tranny and runs half the distance to the wheel hub. That part will be bolted with a bracket to the lower portion of the A/C bracket. leave that part alone. You are going to want to replace the other section - the part that attaches to the solid section and goes to the wheel hub.

It will look kind of like one of these, except yours will only have a splined shaft on one end: PIC
 
So I got the parts today and the one they gave me isn't gonna work. The cup that the three rollers goes into is round and not triangular-ish. Is this a revised one or just the wrong thing? Can I get the right one anymore?
 
No they gave me the whole thing I just dont wanna pull the inner out of the tranny. And I can't cause the inner joint and cv boot they gave me is different.
 
Well I took it back and got the right one. But now its being a pain to pop in! Is there an tips on how to get the CV joint to gether? I.E. get the three rollers in the cup while the cup is still on the car.
 
I had the same tear in my boot, and just replaced it a couple weeks ago. I got the half shaft from autozone. It was a little more expensive bc of having abs. I unbolted the carried bearing and pulled the entire axle from the tranny. The axle separates into two halves rights before the carrier bearing. It was a pain to separate and would probably have been easier to just replace the whole shaft ( but more expensie). But if you are looking to save some money, the half shaft is the way to go. After you get is separated, put the new half shaft on the old tranny/carrier bearing portion of the axle. I pretty much followed the article in the tech section of this site. And dont forget to fill/change tranny fluid. I hope this helps you out.




Edit: your newest post was not there when i started typing LOL
 
Its ok I found out that this one I got is a bit too big so I just bit the bullet, dove deep into my bank account, and called Raxles and have one coming later this week from them.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Power Window Switches ( tested and hardware included )
    2G Power Window Switches $55 + shipping and paypal fees* Tested 6/2/26 * Hardware included *...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top