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rod knock !!!! options??

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DARKTSI

15+ Year Contributor
51
0
Oct 15, 2007
ELSINORE, California
ok i have a 95 talon tsi awd and i think it spun a bearing and now has rod knock it makes this loud knocking noise and i cant rev above 3000 rpm it gets worse as rpm increases.....i searched and it said to drain the oil to look 4 metal shavings or sumthing but my oil came out ok a lil dirty but nothing more ...........what can i do what would cost less money just buy new rods or a new block.....also what block should i get i herd sumthing about a 6bolt being good or a non turbo 2g eclipse block also or should i just find another 2g block......what about the rods 1g turbo rods or buy new oem......how hard is it to remove the block without removing the tranny doesnt seem that complicated i gots tools just to check and see if the rods and bearings are bad:talon:
 
If it's RPM dependent I wouldn't rule out crankwalk. That means your thrust bearings are shot and you have travel in your crank. Absolutely do a 6 bolt swap or some variation of one. I did it in my 2g and it was the best mod I've done yet. You can do a 2G piston 6 bolt so you can keep the better 8:5:1 compression ratio and if you really want to get technical you can keep your 2G head amd have it ported/polished and retain the efficiency it provides over the 6 bolt. Sure the 6 bolt won't crankwalk hardly ever, but the 7 bolt head is more efficient (after porting).
 
Also, posting with improper grammar and in bold won't encourage many people to help you. Just FYI. I could care less how you type or whatever because I can understand you just fine, but other people are sticklers about it because it's in the rules to be clear and use as good of grammar and punctuation as you can. Good luck with your car; it definitely sounds like it's time to get a 6 bolt in there. I have a really good 2.1L 6 bolt for sale, but IDK where you live. If you're close enough it may be worth it just to grab mine off me.
 
Pull the oilpan, check rod bearings... If it knocks that bad, you may be able to just wiggle the bearing shell & see that it's toast. Depending upon the extent of the damage [examine your bad bearings and crank journal] you can either buy a set of rod bearings, slip them in there, or buy individuals [works good enough], and replace the bad one. Now, what made your rod bearings go bad? Excessive lugging, high-speeds, and overheating can pressurize bearings & cause the oil to press right out of them. Overheating causes thin oil which doesn't lubricate very well at all. I've heard stories of repetitious rod bearing failures, so make sure your oil pump is good, etc. Rod bearings to just get old, as well.

This weekend I am doing the rod bearings on my car, it runs fine but has a little knock & I remember what driving on a knock does.... stuck motor.
 
if you hear a knock and u think you spun a bearing you should know... its a sound that you cant mis-take... but dsm 95 96 4g63 are no for having a weaker crank.. but i bet that you just spun a bearing... you should go with a 1g engine with the 6 bolt motor.. runs stronger and no crank walk.. you can always rebuild that motor... but nothing is eaiser than a motor swap... 6 bolt is the only way to go.. dont waste your time with the 7 bolt cause history repeats its self
 
Your motor is toast, no point of pulling it apart to be sure, the same thing just happened to me. Either you can buy a used shortblock, 6 or 7 bolt. If you get a 6 bolt you need a new oil pan and pickup, oil filter housing, flywheel, lower timing belt cover, modified mount and 1g cam sensor with RRE harness is what I would recommend. Re-use your 2g head, have it ported and the head bolt holes bored out to fit a 6 bolt.

If you build a motor I would go with 1g big rods and 2g pistons, clevite bearings and arp everything else. Also get new water and oil pumps.
 
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