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stock engine

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williamdsm

15+ Year Contributor
87
0
Jul 4, 2007
Newfield, New Jersey
how much power can be made with the engine being stock? i was looking into getting a big 16g turbo. thanks
 
A stock 6-bolt in good condition can easily handle a B16G to full boost. With supporting mods that's 300+ HP to the wheels. However, I would get the engine checked out before you do that because if it's not in good condition you can destroy it. Get a Compression Test done for starters. Make sure the head gasket isn't blown. Check Vacuum. Then do all the Stage 0 mods and complete engine maintenance. Replace ALL the belts especially the Timing Belt. You don't want the timing belt snapping on you cause it will kill the engine (speaking from personal experience here so trust me on that one). If you ask around I'm sure you'll get the same response from other people. Your engine will take and make a lot of power if it's maintained well. If it's not maintained very well it will die on you real quick. So, spend a couple hundred bucks on getting the maintenance done first or spend a couple thousand on a new engine if you don't. Best of luck. Tom.

PS: Get the MHI Evo 3 16G rather then the Big 16G, and don't buy it from eBay.
 
hey thanks, man. yeah the engine in my car atm is bad, looking into buying a low mileage stock JDM motor.
 
oh and the jdm motor i'm looking at has the cyclone intake system. will that run ok with my car? just wondering. i'm going to be using the ECU and wiring harness from my current 91 gsx.
 
hey thanks, man. yeah the engine in my car atm is bad, looking into buying a low mileage stock JDM motor.

A JDM motor will be identical to yours. I'm not a 100% sure but I think the only different is a JDM tag ( or some kinda of tag ) on the valve cover. The internals are the same, but you'll have to verify that with someone else. Also, you will still need to do the same maintenance on the "new" motor regardless.

The cyclone "fuel saving system" is complete BS. Anything you put in the intake pipe will cause restriction and hurt your power/economy. Just get a intake pipe and filter ( you can cheap out on that one and get it from eBay ). They're like $50 and it will be way better then the cyclone.

I would get your current engine checked out before shelling out money for a new one. Either do it your self or have a mechanic do it. If you have time and are willing to get your hands dirty, then you can do all the tests yourself. They're actually not that hard to do. That way you find out what condition your engine is in without spending any money (this is assuming you have all the tools to do it).

If you do decide to get a new engine then I'd suggest contacting mark at overbore.com. He can set you up with a decent 6-bolt for $1500 which is only a little more then a JDM will cost you. Plus you get a freshly rebuilt motor with the following NEW parts:

# NEW PISTONS .020 over, "JCC OR NPR"
# RINGS "HASTINGS OR NOA"
# PINS
# ROD BEARINGS "KING,FM, CLEVITE,ACL"
# MAIN BEARINGS "KING,FM,CLEVITE,ACL"
# THRUST BEARINGS
# COMPLETE TIMING SET BELT AND TENSIONER " CRP,PCI,OE"
# NEW OIL PUMP" NOT REBUILT" "AISIN"
# FULL QUALITY GASKET SET AND VITON SEALS "AJUSA,COMETIC,VICTOR"
# WATER PUMP "AISIN"
# STAINLESS VALVES " PEP,SI"
# New 3G Lifters
# GUIDES "PEP"

He advertises on eBay but you'll want to call him directly and do it over the phone. I got my built 7-bolt from him which is being put in right now ( I get it back in 3 days ).

Here is the link for his eBay ad:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MITSUBISHI-ECLIPSE-4G63T-ENGINE-1G-2-0-TURBO-GST-4G63_W0QQitemZ160165999495QQihZ006QQcategoryZ33615QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Cheers, Tom.
 
hey dude, thanks so much for all the info and directing me to this guy! you have been more than helpful =)
 
No problem. If you do buy a motor from Mark ask him to package it well. Mine was packaged poorly and it got damaged in shipping. One of the cam gears was broken, no big deal though, I just swapped the cam gear from my old motor.

Cheers, Tom.
 
A stock 6-bolt in good condition can easily handle a B16G to full boost. With supporting mods that's 300+ HP to the wheels.
There are plenty of people running the stock engine (6 or 7 bolt) at 400whp +, it's all in the tune.

williamdsm, please use proper caps when posting in the tech sections.
 
I'm in the process of pulling the old engine out. I'm going to buy a stock long block to replace the old high mileage engine. Are there any step by step type threads out there to kind of give me a little help?
 
I'm in the process of pulling the old engine out. I'm going to buy a stock long block to replace the old high mileage engine. Are there any step by step type threads out there to kind of give me a little help?

Why are you pulling out the old engine already? Do you have a new one to replace it with?
(Are you getting one from Mark at www.overbore.com?)

I'm sure there are thread's out there on pulling an engine (gotta search) but let me give you my own piece of advice. If you can afford it, pay someone else (like a mechanic's shop) to do it for you. It's a bi***. However, if you do decide to do it yourself, I highly suggest getting a digital camera and snapping a THOUSAND pictures from all angles and at various stages of the pull. You'd be surprised how many times people are putting a motor back in and don't know where a random pipe, electrical wire, or rubber hose connects to. It will save you a lot of time down the road.

Piece of advice number 2. Don't do it alone. Get a friend to help.

Piece of advice number 3. Get a engine crane. (Seriously, it's a royal pain without one)

Good luck, Tom.
 
Why are you pulling out the old engine already? Do you have a new one to replace it with?
(Are you getting one from Mark at www.overbore.com?)

I'm sure there are thread's out there on pulling an engine (gotta search) but let me give you my own piece of advice. If you can afford it, pay someone else (like a mechanic's shop) to do it for you. It's a bi***. However, if you do decide to do it yourself, I highly suggest getting a digital camera and snapping a THOUSAND pictures from all angles and at various stages of the pull. You'd be surprised how many times people are putting a motor back in and don't know where a random pipe, electrical wire, or rubber hose connects to. It will save you a lot of time down the road.

Piece of advice number 2. Don't do it alone. Get a friend to help.

Piece of advice number 3. Get a engine crane. (Seriously, it's a royal pain without one)

Good luck, Tom.

The current engine has bent valves and 175,000 miles on it. I've decided to buy a fresh stock motor, most likely from overbore. My friend is giving me a hand with the engine overhauling, basically all that's left to do is drop the driveshaft and take the axels out. And i do have an engine crane :). Thanks for the advice, man! :)
 
The current engine has bent valves and 175,000 miles on it. I've decided to buy a fresh stock motor, most likely from overbore. My friend is giving me a hand with the engine overhauling, basically all that's left to do is drop the driveshaft and take the axels out. And i do have an engine crane :). Thanks for the advice, man! :)

No Problem. :) good luck.
 
A JDM motor will be identical to yours. I'm not a 100% sure but I think the only different is a JDM tag ( or some kinda of tag ) on the valve cover. The internals are the same, but you'll have to verify that with someone else. Also, you will still need to do the same maintenance on the "new" motor regardless.

The cyclone "fuel saving system" is complete BS. Anything you put in the intake pipe will cause restriction and hurt your power/economy. Just get a intake pipe and filter ( you can cheap out on that one and get it from eBay ). They're like $50 and it will be way better then the cyclone.

Cheers, Tom.


For those of us who have and are using the cyclone it does wok and is a better ITM and far superior to the ones that come on the 1g and 2g. Please don't post about something unless you have first hand experice about it. The cyclone does give you better gas mileage, does provide better spool and mroe low end power without hurting your topend. I am using one as we speak. I would recomend that you get the things to operate the manifold 60 bucks and some very easy wiring. If you don't like the way it preforms then take it off but it is a good manifold.
 
I'm wondering why the 2G's cost so much more than the 1G's at overbore?

It costs more because they do the Crank Walk Mod. You can read about it on their web site. They put in new over sized bearings. They bored out the block and make it bigger then they put in a new bearing.

Cheers, Tom.
 
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