is it bad if i disconect the vacume hose on my bov?

[peter535]

is it bad if i disconect the vacume hose on my bov?

 

[xveganxcowboyx]

Yes, disconnecting the vacuum line will result in the BOV not functioning, which will result in compressor surge and dramatically shorter turbo life. Why would you disconnect it?

 

[peter535]

cz i think my bov is a ebay know off so right now im running really rich so someone on this site suggested to remove the vacume hose to see if i get better readings on my wideband

 

[Talesin]

Do a boost leak test.
The person who told you that may have thought the BOV was leaking, but running with no vac line (and getting compressor surge every time the throttle plate closes after hard boosting, including shifts) is no way to diagnose it. Is the BOV recirculated? If not, do it. The kit isn't that expensive, and you car will run properly. Atmo-venting without a MAF-T setup is just ricerish.

 

[peter535]

its recirculated ,im running 10.7 at idle

 

[Talesin]

Then the BOV leaking isn't going to make you run rich or lean. Boost leak test, and check your front narrowband O2 sensor to make sure it's still cycling.

 

[peter535]

how would i check if its still cycling?

 

[Talesin]

Generally you'd just hook up your logger cable and log the O2V (only), and watch to make sure that it's going up and down. If you don't have a logger... well, I think some ODBII scantools can read off ECU data streams. And consider getting a datalogger. Indispensable tool for any DSM owner.
Though if you haven't changed out your front O2 sensor in a while, it may be time anyway. You're supposed to change it at the same interval as the timing belt, and it'll get shorter the more often you run the car hard.

 

[peter535]

i have a logger and the o2 was cycling from 40 to 900 im using obdgrapgh i still dont know how to post a graph(like a table)

 

[92dsmtalon]

Hell, when I was messing with my 1g BOV, I forgot to reattatch the vaccum line to the BOV and my car just died, it was recirculating, but as soon as I reattatched the line it ran fine. Wasnt sure if that was normal or not. But I agree with them, make sure its on there.

 

[Talesin]

No idea what scale that's on, you want it to be cycling between 0V and .60-.90V... I'd guess it's going between .04 and .90, which sounds just fine.

92, that would be because you had a major vacuum leak from that loose, uncapped line directly to the intake manifold. It's normal for the car to die with a vac leak that big.. the ECU has no idea what's going on, can't control or compensate, so everything just goes pear-shaped.

peter, are you running larger injectors? Do you have any fuel management? Are you running an upgraded fuel pump? If so, do you have an AFPR to bring the fuel pressure back to stock? Do you have an actual wideband O2, or one of those cheapo 'air/fuel' gauges that taps into the stock narrowband (I've been assuming you have an actual WBO2 so far)?

 

[peter535]

peter, are you running larger injectors? Do you have any fuel management? Are you running an upgraded fuel pump? If so, do you have an AFPR to bring the fuel pressure back to stock? Do you have an actual wideband O2, or one of those cheapo 'air/fuel' gauges that taps into the stock narrowband (I've been assuming you have an actual WBO2 so far)?

i have stock injectors stock fuel pump and no fuel management all my mods are on my profile,plus i have a aem wideband o2

 

[peter535]

also im running rich the whole time except when i hit about 4krpm on 4th and 5th gear its at 13.8 sometimes 14.3

 

[Talesin]

Have you listened to all four injectors, to make sure one or two aren't stuck open? A side-effect of a stuck-open injector would be difficulty starting (have to crank it for a little bit to get fuel pressure back into the system, instead of holding at 21psi like the stock setup is supposed to). Other than that, I can only recommend checking your fuel pressure.

You might also datalog, see what airflow rating you show at idle. My 1G shows 4-5, though I don't know what a 2G standard number would be. Also, is that after the engine is fully warmed up, and not in the warm-up cycle (which runs rich to heat the engine to operating temp more quickly)?

 

[peter535]

its after the engine is warmed up

 

[peter535]

how would i be able to listen to the injectors is there a specific sound they should make?

 

[Talesin]

Either a mechanic's stethoscope ($5-10 at Autozone), or a long screwdriver. In the latter case, put your ear on the end of the handle and touch the tip to what you want to listen to. They should be clicking steadily. If one isn't clicking at all, give it a couple of firm smacks with a screwdriver handle (something with a little bit of weight to it) but don't wail on it.. just enough to try and jostle the actuator loose.

If it doesn't help, get an LED and resistor, disconnect the injector's wire plug and touch the leads of the LED+resistor combo to the terminals (make sure the polarity is the right way around, too). This is a makeshift 'noid light' to make sure the injector is getting signal over the wiring harness... the LED (or proper noid light, if your Autozone has them on the tool-borrow list) should flash regularly. If it doesn't flash, you have either a harness problem, an ECU problem, or the noid light turned around the wrong way.

At that point, put the wiring harness back on the injector. If it still doesn't click like it should, time to replace the injectors. Which really isn't hard to do yourself at all.

 

[DSMunknown]

Sometimes I think these type of questions come from Trolls.