Help, coolant flows into oil!

[Pyrice4]

Ok, I just rebuild my engine, put everything together, and filled it up with oil and coolant and started it. I turn it off and check my oil, looks like chocolate milk. So, I replace my turbo becasue I thought it was the seals and check my oil cooler for damage and flatness and slop some extra gasket sealer to help. Also, I have a brand new head gasket and new head bolts torqed to spec. So, everything back together drained and refilled the oil and coolant. Before I even start the car I pull the dip stick out and a watery/oily mix drips off . Im sure there is coolant in the oil it just hast gotten to mix yet. and the engine wasnt running so there was no pressure on any of the fluids to mix. SO.....Does anyone have any idea what could allow the coolant to just FLOW into the oil???????? Is there anywere else the coolant could get in besides the turbo, oil cooler, and head gasket??? Or is my oil cooler messed up?

 

[Street_Killer]

Di you resurface the head for the head gasket?

 

[Savage Talon]

Typically if the oil cooler goes bad you get oil in the water. That is one of the few places where oil pressure is higher then water pressure. Remember high pressure seeks low pressure.

 

[spoonman]

You could also have a crack in the head or block that is letting oil in, but it does not let oil in very quickly. If not the oil cooler then the head gasket is not mating to the head because, it is warped and was not resurfaced.

 

[maperformance]

Sounds like it is time for a leak down test to track down the issue...

 

[Pyrice4]

Typically if the oil cooler goes bad you get oil in the water. That is one of the few places where oil pressure is higher then water pressure. Remember high pressure seeks low pressure.

But the oil and coolant mixed BEFORE I even started the car, there nothing had any pressure except gravity.

Could the oil cooler allow coolant to flow into the oil in a matter of seconds without the car running even if its mated good to the block?

The block would have to have a huge whole in it for it to mix that quick. Also, I pulled the head off my old GST that ran fine, no hg problems. Whats a leakdown test and how would It help>?

 

[Pyrice4]

Any ideas at all?

 

[KazooGS-T]

Just because you didn't think there was any problems does not mean that your head is not somewhat slightly or severely warped. Just a suggestion, any time you do a headgasket change, have the head pressure checked and checked for flatness.

 

[Pyrice4]

Ya, but for the coolant to flow so quickly into the oil it would have to be visibly warped. I mixed without me starting the car....

 

[DBordersX]

+1 Leakdown test. I'm not sure it's possible for them to mix via a bad headgasket with the engine not running but it seems unlikely. A leakdown test will tell you what's going on though.

 

[BUCK]

Did you drain the Block of Coolant BEFORE YOU PULLED THE OLD HEAD?

 

[fhudsonjr]

A leak down test pressurizes the cylinder and you listen for air escaping out the exhaust, TB and look for bubbles in your radiator. Each cylinder needs to be brought to top dead center or somewhere close so that both valves are closed. The cylinder is pressurized w/air thru the spark plug hole.

Air will leak out even on a sound engine. You will compare the % of leakage from each cylinder to each other to see if they are at least close to equal.

You will need access to an air compressor and a leakdown tester. The tester can be bought from Harbor Freight (if you have one) for about $40 on sale.

This is a rather short and not complete explanation of the leakdown test.

Good luck

 

[Pyrice4]

I pulled the radiator before i pulled the engine so I think most of the coolant should have drained out. I think that it has to be something obvious becasue so much coolant goes into the oil so quickly, its not going to be a small crack or light imperfection in the head or something.

 

[fhudsonjr]

I'm not being nasty, but you need to start trying some of the things suggested. It is quite difficult trying to analyze over the net.

I know you're wanting a quick "ah-ha" fix, but there probably is not one. Start eliminating things.

Again, good luck.

 

[Pyrice4]

Alright, i guess ill start testing stuff. If i cant find anything ill just swap in my other 6 bolt. The car is real hard to start and once it does it dies after a few seconds, and it sounds alot like a lawnmower.

 

[BUCK]

& running on Milkshake Oil will toast the Bearings QUICK so....... QUIT running it ~!

- As far as Lawnmower that sounds like a WET flooded Spark Plug / Combustion Chamber = BLOWN / Improperly installed Head Gasket... for instance: Failure to thoroughly Tap, Clean & Vacuum the blind threaded holes in Block which results in FALSE Torque values on Head Bolts.

- When you said: "BEFORE I EVEN START THE CAR I pull the dip stick out and a watery/oily mix drips off . Im sure there is coolant in the oil it just hast gotten to mix yet. and the engine wasnt running so there was no pressure on any of the fluids to mix. SO..... "

That made me hope that perhaps you never FLUSHED the Crankcase ( I use Kerosene ) of Coolant after the INITIAL problem so the Oil was immediately contaminated again - BTW, BEFORE you pull Head Drain Coolant from Block & FLUSH Block with Kerosene prior to Install & let dry overnite.

 

[Pyrice4]

& running on Milkshake Oil will toast the Bearings QUICK so....... QUIT running it ~!

- As far as Lawnmower that sounds like a WET flooded Spark Plug / Combustion Chamber = BLOWN / Improperly installed Head Gasket... for instance: Failure to thoroughly Tap, Clean & Vacuum the blind threaded holes in Block which results in FALSE Torque values on Head Bolts.

- When you said: "BEFORE I EVEN START THE CAR I pull the dip stick out and a watery/oily mix drips off . Im sure there is coolant in the oil it just hast gotten to mix yet. and the engine wasnt running so there was no pressure on any of the fluids to mix. SO..... "

That made me hope that perhaps you never FLUSHED the Crankcase ( I use Kerosene ) of Coolant after the INITIAL problem so the Oil was immediately contaminated again - BTW, BEFORE you pull Head Drain Coolant from Block & FLUSH Block with Kerosene prior to Install & let dry overnite.

This was accually a very helpful post, thanks. I was just wondering if you just drained everything and poured the kerosene into the head the same as you would regular oil and let it drain out the oil drain plug?

 

[BUCK]

When the Head is off I flush the Block thru all the passages, Oil & Coolant & let it dry overnite, usually before I even put the Oil Pan back on & certainly before I reinstall Water Pump, Coolant Hoses, etc... - In your current "mode" with an unknown leak somewhere I'd pour it thru the Oil fill hole & rinse it thru the Oil Drain plug - You'll STILL want to flush that Block & Head like this AND spray some WD40 or something in the Combustion Chambers even if you are going to pull it & just set it aside in the garage so the Coolant doesn't rust it up & kill it STONE dead - & you may have some of this Milkshake stuff in the Oil Cooler, Filter, ETC>>> so make sure you don't put that crap back into the SECOND Motor - Good luck with the other 6 Bolt & personally I would DELETE that damned Water to Oil Cooler NOW during all this crap so you KNOW it aint the guilty party.

 

[91TurboTalonFWD]

I am getting water and oil mixture but there is no milk like fluid on the dipstick and i dont think the head gasket is bad what else could this be?

 

[Pyrice4]

1. Turbo seals gone bad
2. Oil cooler is bad
3. Headgasket messed up or head/block warped or not torqed good
4. A nice crack in your block