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272/272 Cam install... Car will not start

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mini zilo

15+ Year Contributor
783
18
Jul 17, 2006
Chicago, Illinois
I just finished installing my BC 272/272 Cams, and when I went to prime the car, the sound of the starter motor cranking the engine sounded funny. Then, I put the ECU fuse back in, and it would not start. The starter motor just keeps cranking. The sound of it sounds a little different then it did before. What could it be? Timing?
 
1. What method did you use for the cam install? Zip tie on the cam gears or did you remove the entire timing belt?

2. Have you check your timing marks?

3. Did you put cam caps back in their original positions? Did you torque them to spec in the proper order.

4. Did you install the plug wires in the proper firing order?
 
1. What method did you use for the cam install? Zip tie on the cam gears or did you remove the entire timing belt?

Zip-tie on the cam gears. Although, I should add that I did not loosen the belt because I didn't have the tool. I left it tight while I did the install:(

2. Have you check your timing marks?

Where should they be?

3. Did you put cam caps back in their original positions? Did you torque them to spec in the proper order.

Yes, original order, and torqued them to spec.
4. Did you install the plug wires in the proper firing order?

Yes, installed in proper firing order.


Could the timing belt have skipped a tooth?
 
Zip-tie on the cam gears. Although, I should add that I did not loosen the belt because I didn't have the tool. I left it tight while I did the install
That was going to be one of my follow up questions, who told you you had the option to proceed without the tool? :toobad: Now you probably have to re-do the timing belt and possibly more, all for saving $10.

1. Are the cam gears turning as you crank?

2. Put the motor in TDC, check and make sure all the marks are lined up.

3. Make sure you didn't reverse the cam gears. IN vs EX.

4. Check your cam angle sensor.

Yes, original order, and torqued to spec.
In the proper sequence?

Yes, installed in proper firing order.
Double check. From left to right, head = 4321, coil = 4123.
 
That was going to be one of my follow up questions, who told you you had the option to proceed without the tool? :toobad: Now you probably have to re-do the timing belt and possibly more, all for saving $10.

1. Are the cam gears turning as you crank?

Yes
2. Put the motor in TDC, check and make sure all the marks are lined up.

3. Make sure you didn't reverse the cam gears. IN vs EX.

4. Check your cam angle sensor.
I dont have a CAS

In the proper sequence?

What is the proper sequence?
Double check. From left to right, head = 4321, coil = 4123.







Sorry I am retarded when it comes to timing, but here is a picture of where the marks are on the cam gears. I don't know if this helps AT ALL but anyways...

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That is at least two teeth off, assuming the crank is at TDC. Time to pull the timing belt and re-do it, might as well replace all the necessary components, especially the auto tensioner, then you can check compression and for possible valve damage. Get that special tool from JayRacing for $10.
 
You need to line those marks up by turning the crank by hand with a 1/2" drive. Then put a ruler across them to the other marks on the other sides of the cam gears. Make sure all line up, and all are level with the top of the head. Get them lined up as much as possible, then take a picture that shows ALL 4 of the timing marks. Yeah, you can do the timing without a tensioner tool, but you have to take the tensioner off, and putting it back on... not fun...
 
Oh, crap I didn't put it at TDC when I took that pic. So I guess that pic is useless then. When I put it at TDC where should the marks be?
Step one in using the zip tie method is to put the motor in TDC before removing the cam gears, it troubles me that you don't know how to put the motor in TDC.

Study this link for how to put the motor in TDC.

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-2G.html
 
Yeah, you can do the timing without a tensioner tool, but you have to take the tensioner off, and putting it back on... not fun...
That would defeat the whole purpose of using the zip tie method. It's also not a good idea because the tensioner will fully extend too quickly when you remove it without the pin in place, the most important aspect of using the special tool is to compress and decompress the tensioner slowly. If you're installing a new tensioner you can get away without using the tool but you better get the tension right on the spot the first time. You can also install a clutch without the alignment tool but why would you?

http://www.jayracing.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=17
 
Well ......


:coy:

I feel kinda stupid.

I asked my brother to come out and help me figure it out,

He was very confident we did not mess anything up with the timing, so he pulled the ECU fuse, looked at it, put it back in firmly.


Then checked all the ignition wires to make sure they were in the correct spots on the coil pack, pressed them all in firmly.

then went to the car and tried to start it, and it fired up no problem :coy:
 
I didn't use the "zip-tie method" because I was changing bearings, and removing the head for cams/spring/retainer/adj. cam gears. I was just throwing it out there... Oh, but I DID use a new tensioner! :thumb:
 
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