Ideling problem, but I'm pretty sure this is my fault.

[Austin06]

Well, to make a long story short, I'll start with what happened.

After swapping cylinder heads, turbonetics t3 50 trim turbo setup,tial external gate, lan-'s fmic setup, and a set of 272 dks cams with revised lifters. Had some trouble getting the timing right with the camshaft timing belt, finally got that straightened out, and now got everything back together.

So, now, here I am with a car that runs like crappo, although I'm sure its something I've done, but I need people here to verify a few things for me.

So, what happens when I go start the car is it starts, but refuses to idle, at all. Seems to have trouble reving up, and plain sounds like crap froim the exhaust. Really, my question here is, would my car idle at all on stock injectors with that turbo and cams? I simply have nothing to tune it with at the moment, but I just don't understand why it won't idle.
The plan to install these parts, get the car running, no driveable running, but running, set the timing, get what i need to put in my FIC 850's, and have it tuned.
But, doesn't seem like my plan is flowing through.

What I did notice when I pulled the plugs, they were pitch black, I would say It's running pig rich. I almost feel that I left something unplugged or a vaccum line undone, but I've rechecked everything a dozen times now.

So, what I'm getting at here, my setup is stock internals, stock rebuild on head with revised lifters, dks 272's, t3 50 trim/manny/ o2, tial ex. gate, fmic on stock bov, and stock maf.
I thought maybe I could run the car on very low boost with setup for only a few weeks, but I don't think I can go any further until's this thing can idle.

Sorry if you get lost, just ask anything and I will respond asap. I would like to drive this thing sometime...haha

 

[burnnxs]

so have you tried turning up the idle grounding the isc ?
boost leak test ?
check compression ?

 

[Austin06]

Well, I was gonna start with the boostleak test tomorrow. I guess i will go and do an compression test, although the car ran perfect before.
Adjusting the idle, meaning the BISS screw?

 

[kenamond]

Check www.vfaq.com for adjusting idle. It's not just turning the BISS, but it's not very complicated.

Also, check your CAS. My CAS went bad and didn't throw a CEL until it started working right again. If the CAS is unplugged or bad, the ECU doesn't know when to inject fuel or spark. When my CAS was acting up, it would barely start, wouldn't idle, and if I pumped the gas would maybe get to 2k before dying. Heavy gas smell in the exhaust, too, and some backfiring.

Boost leak test is a good idea, too, but I think it'd run even with a coupler disconnected.

 

[Austin06]

Check www.vfaq.com for adjusting idle. It's not just turning the BISS, but it's not very complicated.

Also, check your CAS. My CAS went bad and didn't throw a CEL until it started working right again. If the CAS is unplugged or bad, the ECU doesn't know when to inject fuel or spark. When my CAS was acting up, it would barely start, wouldn't idle, and if I pumped the gas would maybe get to 2k before dying. Heavy gas smell in the exhaust, too, and some backfiring.

Boost leak test is a good idea, too, but I think it'd run even with a coupler disconnected.

Actually, that sounds about right with whats happening here. But the only thing is that the car ran beautiful before this. and now that I think about it, when i first cranked it over, the tach jumped up to like 5k and then dropped back down to cranking rpm's. Thought it was weird, but hasn't done it since.

And, yes, fuel smell is heavy, and even when i shut the car off, the fumes linger in the muffler.

Is there a specific way to check the cas or if it "out of phase", or if thats even possible?
Also, how am I to adjust the idle if the car won't idle?
Or could I try adjusting it to set the idle higher, which way would i screw the biss in?

Now, I'm not expecting the car to run perfect with the 450's on that turbo and cam setup, but obvisouly you need a place to start, but should it run half okay?...haha.

I appreciate the reponses, thanks... -Austin

 

[kenamond]

Actually, that sounds about right with whats happening here. But the only thing is that the car ran beautiful before this. and now that I think about it, when i first cranked it over, the tach jumped up to like 5k and then dropped back down to cranking rpm's. Thought it was weird, but hasn't done it since.

And, yes, fuel smell is heavy, and even when i shut the car off, the fumes linger in the muffler.

Is there a specific way to check the cas or if it "out of phase", or if thats even possible?
Also, how am I to adjust the idle if the car won't idle?
Or could I try adjusting it to set the idle higher, which way would i screw the biss in?

Now, I'm not expecting the car to run perfect with the 450's on that turbo and cam setup, but obvisouly you need a place to start, but should it run half okay?...haha.

I appreciate the reponses, thanks... -Austin

Sorry, but I know nothing about the 1g CAS. I just know that the 2gb motors put it where you could change it in 20 seconds if a crowd of man-eating zombies were running up to the car and you had to do it that quick. The 2ga models put the damned thing under the cam pulleys. So if it's easy on a 1g, you might try replacing it (mine cost $80 at Autozone). Don't know if there's a way to test it on the car, though.

 

[Austin06]

Sorry, but I know nothing about the 1g CAS. I just know that the 2gb motors put it where you could change it in 20 seconds if a crowd of man-eating zombies were running up to the car and you had to do it that quick. The 2ga models put the damned thing under the cam pulleys. So if it's easy on a 1g, you might try replacing it (mine cost $80 at Autozone). Don't know if there's a way to test it on the car, though.

Well I'll look and see if there's a way to test it. And yes it is very quick and easy to change, located pass/side in front of the throttle body, 2 bolts, boom-bang!