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4g61 Swap questions into a 95 gs-t

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Foreverfalcon40

15+ Year Contributor
236
0
Jul 19, 2006
North Babylon, New York
Kinda aggrevated but ahhh whatever here it goes. Bought a 6 bolt motor off a running 91 Eagke Talon with 16G, FMIC, exhaust, injectotors and SAFC. I saw this engine run and went in a test drive with the car. I was told this is a 6 bolt the 4g63 version. But here it is now after figuring out why somethings just don't bolt up like my EVO 3 Mani, timing cover etc...without modification. I did some research that the 4g61 motor is a turbo motor coming from turboed colts and mirages. It already has the BS removed.

My question is...how much HP can be thrown at this thing before it blows. For example a stock 4g63 reaches its limits at 400hp. What about this engine?

My current mods that will be going on the car are....

XS Power Big FMIC with short route 2.5in piping
Full 3in exhaust with no cat
770 Injectors with SAFC Tune
Plugs and Wires
EBay hardened intake
Turbo RFL BOV (i know now MAFT)
02 housing with dump tube
B16G turbo with evo 3 manifold
Fidanza Flywheel
Custom Clutch
Poly Filled mounts

once everything is rolling giood for a few miles I will throw on a boost controller, cams, manifold, headstuds, and a cometic headgasket.

According to the 4g63 6 bolt specs the TB AND the Intake MANI are better then the 2g. Does this still stand correct b/c its a 4g61?3

I have all the parts required to do the 6 bolt swap such as CAS with Plug and Play harness, 1g coil pack.

Should I still be following the 1g into 2g swap? Any swap advice? I have everything bolted up to the engine with a few modifications such as triming the manifold to fit over the bracket and timing cover.

My biggest fear is blowing this thing up...I spent a decent amount of money don;t want to be stuck again...

THANKS for your continuation of help!

Jason
 
Why swap a motor such as the 4g61 when they colt's and mirages take them out to put in a 4g63 .....don't see a point in doing this !

A stock 4g63 can hold more than 400hp ...400hp is not it's limit
6 bolt swap is a good swap but if there is nothing wrong with your 7 bolt why change?
 
Theres a hole in my 7 bolt block thanks to my buddy. He such a good friend he got me a 7 bolt block that came from a running car, with no accessories on it. He gave it it to me and disappeared. I thought this was a 4g63 I saw it in a 91 Talon hooked up. Looks like a 1g 4g63. SO I bought the motor, he pulled it that day picked it up at night. Had it in storage for a week while I got some parts,now I was ready for the swap, stuff isn;t matching up. Look on the block and its a 4g61. Too late nothing for me to do anymore. So I'm stuck with this motor. I have to put it in my car so it runs. Dricve aroudn for a little bit, save up some money and get a real 6 bolt 4g63 motor. SO for now I have to deal with this!
 
I know thread bumping is illegal, in here but I need some help. My next day to work on this car is Saturday coming up. I would like some help in order to quicker diagnos problems that I will be running into.
 
Anyone please?

So far I have had to trim my Evo3 manifold as well as swap out motor mount brackets. I also had to trim my timing cover b/c the engine did not come with one.

Anythign else?
 
Uh, so far it sounds like you got a six-bolt. All 2G style exhaust manifolds need to be trimmed on the right hand side to clear the PS support bracket. The timing belt covers are totally different between the 1G (2-piece) and 2G (3-piece). And you have to replace motor mount brackets when swapping in a six-bolt, it's not a simple drop-in-and-go procedure, there was a good bit of fabrication involved when the swaps first started happening.. think people have likely found a part that'll jury-rig work, or outright make a kit for the engine mounts.

Sounds like you just need to do more research on everything involved with the six-bolt swap, honestly. If you don't, you're going to be stuck with a non-running engine when you try to figure out how to hook up the cam angle sensor and crank angle sensor leads, since the 1G only use a single cam angle sensor. And that's only the first bit.


Any horsepower estimates based on a laundry list are pure ricermath, and bench racing. Get the parts on, get the car tuned, put it on a dyno, and you'll know. Anything else is honestly just mental wankery... we're better than the ricer Honda kids, so why act like them? Adding up a 40hp muffler and a 10hp intake and 20hp headers, telling everyone you added 70hp, but your net gain is only actually 12.
As far as the setup. Drop to 650s if you're going to be tuning with an SAFC, any larger and you're likely to run into low-end drivability problems.. you have a '95, so may want to consider just stepping past that and going with DSMLink, if you have an EPROM ECU.. can run as big as you want at that point. What is a 'custom clutch' (pounds clamping force)? Plugs and wires are maintenence, not a mod.
 
Sewapping motor molunt brackets? On Magnus Motorsports's 1g into a 2g swap list mentions nothing like that, I says I have to trim...
http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/tech/1gina2g.pdf

I have a grey top CAS with a Plug and Play harness so there will be no wiring problems.

I do have pictures...would it help if I post them?

The only thing I have left to do is wait for my flywheel bolts (tuesday) b/c I fubarred them while removing them from my 7 bolt and the 6 bolt did not come with them.

Custom clutch built by falconclutches in my town (Deer Park), he's done many cars even our State champ's car for many years. I barely remember what he said but something about 40% increase in torque and something about using a 2g Awd pressure plate ( I have a GS-T). I am new to Stick cars so he gave me a 6 puck disc instead of eight.

I am doing the swap at my buddies shop at King Bear in Deer Park. They've been talking to customer's and friend's about my car and they are worried about the driveability of my car due to no BS, Polyfilled mounts and the clutch. Saying the cvar will idle hard and /w the poly filled solid mounts and cliutch will cause rough launches and put alot of stress on my axels and tranny. I still have a complete stock tranny but they think the transfer case (I I recall correct) will crack or was it the bell housing? Not to sure. I cna afford axels at this point but not a tranny. They were talking about just getting stock mounts or looking into getting NEOPRENE filled mounts.

DOes anyone have the same set-up I do or close to it? Clutch, Flyhweel, Poly FIlled mlounts (do-it yourself ones) and no BS kit? How does it drive and sound? This is my DD so I don't want no whiplash on every luanch or evben smoke my tires.
 
I just got done working on the motor...I'm about to throw in the towel and be out of $850 bucks!

The coil pack doesn't bolt up and niether does the oil cooler from the orignal 4g63. No timing cover....Coolant lines for my turbo are horrendous. One of the lines has to go all way aroundthe intake to the turbo in a circular motion. Before I run the coolant line I ned to locate a fitting for it on the water pipe. I can;t swap water pipes because I can't swap oil coolers.

Right now I cna only afford a 6-bolt that has 125,000miles. Don;t really feel like doing that. I don;t even know where I can even resell this motor! HELP HELP HELP PLEASE
 
I dont know what your talking about dude...I have a 6bolt in my car and it took me 4 days to drop it in. Do you have a picture of the motor? And Also on the block itself, it has the type of engine engraved right onto it, near where the dipstick goes into the block there should be a flat part with the motor type engraved there. I don't see why you have a coolant line running around the entire block.

Heres a couple of pics of my 6bolt, you'll know if you have the right engine or not.
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UPDATE: I got a 6 bolt from a local motor yard with a documented 80,000 miles. Complete including 14b turbo (which I don't need).

Yes the orignal 6 bolt I purchased was a 4g61. It had it stamped on the back of the motor. If it it a 4g61 it does not have the oil cooler and the turbo coolant lines come from the water pipe)

Doing the swap tomorrow. I already have the tranny out as well just an empty bay with wires and axels. Looking to get it done. I got from 8am to 4pm to do it and I'm follow Magnus Motorsports write up on how to do it.

Anything else I should be extra careful on? I am also doing the timing belt on the car as well. Tips hints tricks would be helpful!
 
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