Timing belt broke... need some sugestions

[hottboost]

My timing belt broke last night while driving. I am thinking I can expect the valves to be bent. If so I dont want to go to extreme but I would like to upgrade the cams what would be a good choice for a Big T28. Also if I do the valve job I am going to go with a metal head gasket and head studs and a Kevlar timing belt. I am thinking that would be a safe choice for the future. I changed the timing belt about 8K miles ago. Would it have broke because of hard driving and it was a stock belt?

Carl

 

[spooled_u_1st]

An OEM belt should not have broke that fast even with "hard driving." Was it a Mitsubishi part or was it an "OEM Quality" belt?

As for the cam choice, It depends on where you want the power.

 

[hottboost]

OEM Quality from NAPA

 

[snox135]

Did the belt break or slip? Even a Oem quailty belt will last much longer than that. Are you sure it was installed properly?

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Even a POS "cheap-o" belt should have lasted longer than 8K, hard driving should not matter. And yes, if the valves are not bent then it's time to buy a Lotto ticket while your luck is still high.

As stated, what cams to get will depend on where you want the power.

Head studs and the Mitsubishi composite will get you 25PSI on a 50trim all day long. While going with a MLS (more expensive) will require resurfacing the head and block (more money) to assure a flat, straight surface for not much gain on the streets.

 

[justoscar1]

since your doing that i would also get the balancer shaft elimintor kit....

samething happen to me

 

[hottboost]

Even a POS "cheap-o" belt should have lasted longer than 8K, hard driving should not matter. And yes, if the valves are not bent then it's time to buy a Lotto ticket while your luck is still high.

As stated, what cams to get will depend on where you want the power.

Head studs and the Mitsubishi composite will get you 25PSI on a 50trim all day long. While going with a MLS (more expensive) will require resurfacing the head and block (more money) to assure a flat, straight surface for not much gain on the streets.

I think the water pump started to drip coolant. So your saying with head studs I should just use a oem head gasket? With the Big 28 I would like to get a little more power up top!

 

[FORMONTOYA]

I'm not saying you should get anything in particular as that will ultimately depend on your goals for the car; however, I am saying that the OEM Mitsubishi composite with ARPs will handle a 50trim at 25PSI on pump all day long (with proper tuning of course).

 

[hottboost]

That is the route I am going to go. ( Stock OEM gasket arp studs ) The verdict was that that the balance shaft belt shredded and took the timing belt with it. I am also going with a balance shaft removal kit. Do you have an opinion on which timing belt I should go with. I am also going with a upgraded head and I am going to port everything from the TB on.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Well, since you asked.....I personally only use OEM Mitsubishi (from the dealer) parts for my timing components. Also I'm extremely anal and on every TB job I will replace ALL timing parts....TB, BB (I still have mine), auto tensioner, 2 tensioner pulleys (TB and BB), idler pulley, water pump, crank seal, BB shaft seal, oil pump seal, 2 cam seals, and crank damper pulley. Also check the condition of the arm that the auto tensioner pushes against as it can wear a dimple in it and will need to be replaced if that happens.

Now that the head will more than likely be out of the way it's a good time to change the fuel filter and heater hoses while there's plenty of room, also all the misc jumper hoses that are spread over the engine. Plus check the rear engine mount as it's a lot easier to change with the head off.

 

[Splitpi]

I agree with Formon's sage advice. Its more expensive to do it all.. but it is worth it as far as longevity is concerned.

 

[Indyxc]

OEM is no NAPA Oem. For critical parts such as timing components do NOT use NAPA components. It's been proven time and time again that people with non MITSU parts end up having problems.

Buy the right components for Mitsubishi and you won't have problems. People have been doing it for 17 years now with DSMs and it works.

 

[snox135]

Napa parts did not fail in 8k becuase they were cheap parts. Something else was wrong.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Napa parts did not fail in 8k becuase they were cheap parts. Something else was wrong.

Correct. From what I gather a TB was changed, maybe the auto tensioner, but not the BB and then 8K later the non-changed BB took out the TB, and you can read the rest.

However, I will agree and say that on MY car as far as TB components go, nothing but Mitsubishi (from the dealer) parts will hit the motor.

 

[snox135]

Correct. From what I gather a TB was changed, maybe the auto tensioner, but not the BB and then 8K later the non-changed BB took out the TB, and you can read the rest.

However, I will agree and say that on MY car as far as TB components go, nothing but Mitsubishi (from the dealer) parts will hit the motor.

Yes, I do agree with that. Same here only factory parts for TB.

 

[hottboost]

Well, since you asked.....I personally only use OEM Mitsubishi (from the dealer) parts for my timing components. Also I'm extremely anal and on every TB job I will replace ALL timing parts....TB, BB (I still have mine), auto tensioner, 2 tensioner pulleys (TB and BB), idler pulley, water pump, crank seal, BB shaft seal, oil pump seal, 2 cam seals, and crank damper pulley. Also check the condition of the arm that the auto tensioner pushes against as it can wear a dimple in it and will need to be replaced if that happens.

Now that the head will more than likely be out of the way it's a good time to change the fuel filter and heater hoses while there's plenty of room, also all the misc jumper hoses that are spread over the engine. Plus check the rear engine mount as it's a lot easier to change with the head off.

Already ordered everything except timing belt from Mitsubishi. I will order that in the morning. I changed the fuel filter about 2000 miles ago, but thats a good call on the heater hoses. I am also going to replace as much stuff as I can that looks worn. Trust me I DONT WANT TO GO THROUGH THIS AGAIN!

Carl

 

[hottboost]

Correct. From what I gather a TB was changed, maybe the auto tensioner, but not the BB and then 8K later the non-changed BB took out the TB, and you can read the rest.

However, I will agree and say that on MY car as far as TB components go, nothing but Mitsubishi (from the dealer) parts will hit the motor.

Your exactly right. It will be a very expensive leason. When we changed the timing belt, the BB looked in excellent shape and I planed on changing the TB and everything in about 30,000 miles. NEVER EVER AGAIN