Talon that's been sitting for over a year

[N1te]

I'm resurrecting a Talon that has been sitting for 1.5 years. The valves are bent, and I have another 7 bolt head that's going to on. While the head is off I'm putting back on an OEM timing belt, tensioner, and OEM Headgasket.

For a car that's been sitting this long, what should I look into?

When I get it I'm going to change the diff fluid, new tranny fluid, flush the T-case (if possible) and oil change of course. New battery, plugs, fuel filter.

Engine:
T3/T4 Turbo
Turbotrix T3/T4 manifold
Turbotrix 35mm external wastegate
Turbotrix manual boost controller
FMIC
Apexi Down pipe and 3" Cat Back
625cc fuel injectors
Injen intake hard pipe
Steel braded Turbo lines
ACT 2100lb clutch
ACT 13lb fly wheel
S-AFC II

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[silver eclipse]

You seem to have most things covered.
Check the tires for dry-rott before driving it any speeds on the street.
The gas in it is probly bad. If its not full put as much good 93 and fuel injector cleaner in it.
-Chad

 

[silver bullit]

You seem to have most things covered.
Check the tires for dry-rott before driving it any speeds on the street.
The gas in it is probly bad. If its not full put as much good 93 and fuel injector cleaner in it.
-Chad

Definitely do this and the car should be set to go after you drain, or burn off the rest of gas in the tank and put 93 or 91 if that is the highest octane rated fuel you have.

 

[Cs4g63]

You seem to have most things covered.
Check the tires for dry-rott before driving it any speeds on the street.
The gas in it is probly bad. If its not full put as much good 93 and fuel injector cleaner in it.
-Chad

I agree with this as well, but also check to make sure your brakes are working properly. Its always better to be safe.

 

[DarthBulk]

Yes, definitely check the brakes! I have seen those rust up and be next to worthless for stopping the car after sitting for a long time.

 

[highpsi93tsi]

Dont be surpized if your rear calipers seize up the first time you use them (mine did this after sitting 8 months)

 

[vaboys2ndgen]

this is what i have to look forward to after iraq.. ugh. .pain in the ass i see.

 

[DBordersX]

I just did this with my 97 ESi. Got her running this weekend

My fuel was about 15 months old. I put in 5 gallons of 91 octane and 2 bottles of Fuel Injector cleaner and she started up the first time(it did take a few turns of the engine to get the air out of the fuel lines of course). i also did an engine swap because the engine was blown so i had lots of smoke and whatnot from the little bits of oil i squirted in the cylinders and on the valves

Anyway, if your calipers will are working you shouldn't have to worry about any rust on the rotors themselves. A few days of driving around and my front rotors are as shiny as when I was driving before. the pads will clean it right up. But that wouldn't matter if your calipers were rusted in place though.

It wasn't nearly the pain in the ass I expected though. good luck

 

[dsmiruny]

When I started driving my car after it set for around a year, the first time I put on the brakes they never came off all the way, . I've been trying to get them unstuck for about a week now and they are still sticking quite a bit. I took it down to the the car wash and used the pressure gun and sprayed them really good and that just about fixed it but not completely. I'm gonna be taking them apart tomarrow and cleaning all of them with brake cleaner then putting em' back together. Expect something close to that I guess. And another thumbs up for changing the gas. When I started mine it hardly wanted to run and sputtered quite a bit so I turned it off, went a filled a couple of those red gas cans with 91, filled it up, and it ran perfect (well kinda, it's a dsm, it's never perfect ). Before you change the oil you could always put some engine flush in there and run it a little while before you change it, it'll help clean gunk out of the lines. You can get some at walmart for like 2 bucks and it really does make a difference. Just look for a little grey bottle around where the fuel injector cleaner and stuff is. Oh yea and check all your cables and such. Something is shot in my charging system and the battery doesn't charge right, I suspect a cable. Anyways, good luck bro.

 

[Gs Dewd]

Also check all belts and hoses really good. After sittng for that long the could have rotted some. Just take some time and go over everything a couple of times to make sure your good to go. It would not be good to get it running then take it down the road and a $3 hose pops a leak and leaves you stranded.

 

[N1te]

Okay, going through and ordering parts now. Just got MLS headgasket seeing as this car will probably only see tops 22 lbs of boost. Also getting a Mitsu Timing Belt and tensioner. I'm doing the work at a shop that can resurface the rotors. The calipers themselves though I'm hoping won't seize.

Order List
New Brake pads
Resurface Rotors
New Drive belts
New Mitsu T-Belt
Mitsu Tensioner

What kind of brake fluid? What kind of coolant, just regular 50/50 mix? What kind fluid do I use for the rear dif? What kind of transmission fluid do I use? What type of oil is best to run during the summer?

 

[vaboys2ndgen]

i have always run mobil 1 synthetic10w30, but to each his own. (every1s got there choice in oil)

hey n1te also check with jerry f or matt on the team trinity site about those mitsu parts. (they can possibly get youa discounted price, from rockville mitsu)

 

[N1te]

I did, and I signed up with the dsm link they gave me with rockville mitsu =)

 

[N1te]

What kind of transmission oil and what kind of fluid goes in the differential?

 

[dsmiruny]

What kind of transmission oil and what kind of fluid goes in the differential?

For tranny fluid go to Autozone or O'Reileys and look for Penzoil Syncromesh, it's pretty good stuff and you can get 3 quarts for under $20. Not sure about the diff off the top of my head, I'll let someone else answer or I'll let you know later.

 

[N1te]

Thanks all, I appreciate the help. What's the best place to get oem timing belts and such from? Do I need to get a new hydraulic tensioner as well as the tensioner pulley?

I think I need
Timing Belt,
Timing belt tensioner
Balance Shaft Belt
Balance Shaft tensioner
Drive Belt
Battery

Things I don't know if I need:
Water pump?
Oil pump?
Timing belt hydraulic tensioner?

 

[Cs4g63]

Its best to change the water pump and hydraulic tensioner while you are in there.

 

[N1te]

And so I got started. So far I've removed the downpipe, changed the wheels, the oil and coolant lines to the turbo, valve cover, the intake, drained the oil, and drained the radiator. I'm gunna get new rotors, but are my calipers/the pins that hold the rotors on too rusted?
I know the turbo on there is a t3/t4 but I don't know the power capabilities it has or what kind. I measured the compressor wheel and it's 2.5 inches and the exhaust wheel is 2 inches. Do I convert that to metric or does anyone know of a place to check out different types of t3/t4's and there flow characteristics?
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[vaboys2ndgen]

those rotors def. looks horrible!

 

[crazy_skier]

take another pic of the comp. housing and then of the turbine housing when you remove the turbo... we can at least get the a/r's. I would take the whole lateral arm off, and have the hub/axle cut out with oxyaccetlyne and get new ones. also throw a gallon or two of toluene in the car if it still has old gas, that is the same as 114 octane but dont run it strait since it to hard to start then

 

[Nors]

Wow I thought my project talon was rusty. I can officially stop bitching! Good luck, and I'd reccomend an oxy/acytalene torch from harbor freight, will help with all your stuck parts.

My gas was like 8 months old so I drained it. Works great for cleaning off old parts... and staining my driveway.

 

[N1te]

Yeah the car is rusted, but it's only on the rotors that it's bad.
I got the valve cover painted and the head back on. Next up is the timing belt, water pump, drive belts, balance shaft belts, and fluid flush. That's it.... then I start her up. Hopefully by Sunday but we'll see. Someone parked a supra next to the dsm so I figured I'd snap a couple pics.

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[1g_tsi_awd]

Pretty, good job with the resurrection!

 

[N1te]

The head got put back on and I pulled the cams and did a compression test. Cylinders 2 and 3 in the new head had no compression whatsoever, so that head came back off and I'm trying to figure out what to do now in terms of getting everything moving. I think I'm going to sell head 1 and head 2 and buy a ported head that hasn't been installed yet, or I can try replacing the valves myself and get one of the heads decked for 50 bucks at a local machine shop.