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come to a stop press the clutch the rpms drop and the car will die

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somenewuns

15+ Year Contributor
31
0
Apr 16, 2007
savannah, Georgia
Whats up... i just recently purchased a 91 talon TSi AWD with a jdm 6 bolt swap -16g turbo-upgraded fuel pump-upgraded injectors-hks airfilter-upgraded ic piping-apexi AFC--brembo brakes


i understand you guys CANT help too much without EXACT things i have but i purchased the car and went on vacation....i drove it around it runs good theres alot more goodies on it then what i mentioned thats all i know offhand

but the problem im having is when i run it or jus cruise sometimes when i come to a stop press the clutch the rpms drop and the car will die.....i figured mabye because the car was sitting for a year and only started now and then...so i ran the fuel threw and refilled with a higher octane fuel...my friend has the car while im gone he said he doesnt have a problem really if he sort of engine brakes....


me personally id go slow enough in gear to about 1000rpm then press the clutch and it would be fine...... i was thinking maybe an unregulated air issue? mabye the afc not tuned right?


i head back home in a week im going to give it an oil change change the oil sending unit and do the oil pan gasket jus for good measure.....

any lil help would be appreciated....


fyi i got the car from a friend who had lost his license he just wanted the car to go to a good home and for the price it was well worth it......im new to DSM....but ive owned plenty of cars domestic and foriegn just your guys input would be appreciated.....


this site has so much reading material and i didnt know where to start WTF so i figured id make a base thread to start...ill get the actual mod listing soon!


BTW sorry for sounding like a douchebag
 
Its normal for rpms to drop when you push the clutch in. Eveything seems normal so, I wouldn't worry. Its good to properly maintain the condition of your car. If you notice a problem don't hesitate to investigate it. If you have any questions don't be afraid to ask.
 
Do u have a vented bov?

its a regular stock BOV the 1 that goes for about 85 .....as far as it being modded i dont think so....




'i know the rpms drop but it cuts off.....it will idle fine most of the time....just when coming to a stop i (normally press my clutch in put it in nuetral) then brake....but when i do it in the talon sometimes it dies out....it never has problems starting right back up though...jus gets a tad bit annoying-reminds me when my s-er was getting extra air through the (then nitrous) port without the nozzle present = /


like i said ill check on it when i get back or if u guys knew of anything to look for...also the guy prior to the guy i bought it from had a switch installed where u can turn it to raise or lower idle....... dunno exactly why etcetc or wha its connected too.......but imma try bypassing it unless its seriously needed




heres a pic a couple months before i got it....it has been cleaned up since then

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You can actually vent the stocker. Is the BOV loud? I can't tell if the tube is hooked up on that picture. You should have a rubber tube going from the outlet of the BOV to the pipe going from the MAF to the turbo inlet. If that's not on there, it can cause the problems you're talking about. Otherwise, it sounds like it's time for a boost leak test!
 
You can actually vent the stocker. Is the BOV loud? I can't tell if the tube is hooked up on that picture. You should have a rubber tube going from the outlet of the BOV to the pipe going from the MAF to the turbo inlet. If that's not on there, it can cause the problems you're talking about. Otherwise, it sounds like it's time for a boost leak test!

yea im going to check it i wanna say it is....... but no its not real loud actually it has that fluttering sound i figured it was because
of low boost...getting me a hallman boost controller next to raise it to around 10lbs ...i can have my friend check tomorow as im 3 hours away from my new baby hahahha

i appreciate the help though....
 
What about the isc? Mine had that type of issue where it would drop to around 200rpm's unless i feather the clutch down so it leveled off around 900. Just a thought.
 
I think I know what it is. If you dont have a stall convertor and you push the clutch in the car will drop and almost die, and in some cases will die. I had this problem when I first bought my GS-T. Check the BISS screw and see if that helps. That helped me.
And yes your BOV is backwards change that around to the correct way.
 
If you dont have a stall convertor and you push the clutch in the car will drop and almost die, and in some cases will die.

What do you mean if he has a stall converter? If its a manual trans there wont be a stall converter.
 
When i would get on it then blow off and come to a stop. The car would sputter and sometimes die with the bov vented. I think the stocker is the worst about doing that when vented to atomosphere. Recirc the bov and your problems should be solved .
 
I think I know what it is. If you dont have a stall convertor and you push the clutch in the car will drop and almost die, and in some cases will die. I had this problem when I first bought my GS-T. .
Only autos have stall converters.:confused: Did you buy a stall converter for your manual transmission ?? You seemed so sure I had to question myself LOL.
 
When i would get on it then blow off and come to a stop. The car would sputter and sometimes die with the bov vented. I think the stocker is the worst about doing that when vented to atomosphere. Recirc the bov and your problems should be solved .

i appreciate it....im looking forward to trying this...however im still away.......


i do have the lightweight flywheel i believe Act2 clutch trying to drive the car just out of an ACL surgery wasnt the brightest idea i had....the clutch presses me...i dont press the clutch




all in all its a good car aside from the engine oil dipstick blowing out = /
 
I think somebody wanted to sound smart:)
I would look at your timming,base idle,boost leaks,that bov like many have said,compression check all things you should do when buying another car anyway.
How far down do the rpms drop when you press the clutch?
 
I think somebody wanted to sound smart:)
I would look at your timming,base idle,boost leaks,that bov like many have said,compression check all things you should do when buying another car anyway.
How far down do the rpms drop when you press the clutch?

depends on how im driving...only got to drive it for 2 days after i had bought it before going on vacation = /

but sometimes it will be fine other times itll stall out......

so i found if i just down shift-then slow the car down to about 1000rpm THEN press the clutch and go in nuetral it doesnt have a problem...


but when revving it at a stop itll die out


i also thought i had mentioned the guy PRIOR to the guy i got it from had an "idle control switch" some homemade shit i figured this could be the problem also...have no clue why it was installed but i was going to trace the wires back and disconnect from wherever to see if it makes anydifference
 
Hm.. My awd 1g does this too and it has a recirculated 1g bov 2g maf and no boost leaks and the idle set at about 900 and it does it when your coming to a stop... The thing that is similar to your set up is the act light weight flywheel... Perhaps thats causing the issue?
Yet my gst didnt have this problem and it has a fidanza flywheel which is lighter than the act. Has to be unmetered air entering or escaping somewhere miniscule not to notice but still were it has an effect.
 
get a logger and see what's going on right before the car turns off. This way you can monitor ISC,o2 fuel trims, blah ,blah .... you can also check for codes that might not set a chck engine light, like a vehicle speed sensor code. just throwing one out there...
IMHO the first 2 mods/upgrades you should do when you get a dsm is a logger and a factory service manual.
 
get a logger and see what's going on right before the car turns off. This way you can monitor ISC,o2 fuel trims, blah ,blah .... you can also check for codes that might not set a chck engine light, like a vehicle speed sensor code. just throwing one out there...
IMHO the first 2 mods/upgrades you should do when you get a dsm is a logger and a factory service manual.

car came with a logger/palmpilot = ) i jus need to reprogram it back on the pilot and hook it up like i said this weekend im going to do a few things to it drive it around a little more it really has no issues aside from the dipstick blowing out but i rigged that to stay put.....
 
car came with a logger/palmpilot = ) i jus need to reprogram it back on the pilot and hook it up like i said this weekend im going to do a few things to it drive it around a little more it really has no issues aside from the dipstick blowing out but i rigged that to stay put.....

Forget the idle, the dipstick blowing out would be my worry in your case..
That generally means too much crankcase pressure due to a lot of blow by from worn out pistons rings or cylinder walls.... How is your pcv valve set up?
And are you getting any knock that you know of? Perhaps some of this could be relevant to your other issue?
 
Forget the idle, the dipstick blowing out would be my worry in your case..
That generally means too much crankcase pressure due to a lot of blow by from worn out pistons rings or cylinder walls.... How is your pcv valve set up?
And are you getting any knock that you know of? Perhaps some of this could be relevant to your other issue?

rings cylinders everything internally is good..... the motor is fairly new IE bought from some "well known import engine" place i got the reciepts im thinking its the pcv and theres no knock nothing REALLY wrong with the car other then the idle issue......

about the dipstick....when i checked the oil it came out like...way easier then a dipstick normally would come out if that makes any sense.....

the car has been sitting for a year also...so i was thinking old/bad gas im going to try a few things when i get back.......but...im just waiting to get back haha
 
I would check your base idle and make sure thats solid. If that checks out, look at the throttle closed switch. On my car, the wire broke and it gave me problems with stalling. It tells the engine when the throttle plate is closed so it can catch itself at the idle rpm instead of dying completely.
 
OK well an update ...its friggin raining = / the day i plan on doin stuff....anyhow started the ride up purs like a moose................. checked the pcv and t hose has a cheap breather filter i plan on replacing it tomorow with a catch can setup (ok idea???) im going to do an oil change oil pressure send unit and oil pan gasket..........


= /

but thats tomorow @ the shop...........rain... = no driving........................



Oh

and the BOV is setup what i assume correctly 1 line running to what seems to be te turbo (didnt spend much time looking...its pouring.)
 
yet another update............went in to do the oil pan gasket figured thats where the leak was....... no...i was wrong...on top of that....i didnt see myself able to even think about doing the job id have to drop basically my whole exhaust = / among a few oter things to get the pan out...


anyhow...did the oil change....and getting the ####ing filter off took most the time....as did putting a new 1 on = / ..again not prepared for that but i made do..........


i went to put in a new pcv valve only to realize it wouldn't thread in????? theres a small little piece of metal pipe there that with some fiddling will come out...but i cant thread a new 1 back in.........so i put the old 1 back for time being.......my other valve cover has a threaded 1 but needs to be repainted/powder coated so ill wait a few weeks...oh while taking the filter off the thread was loose (don't know the correct term) so i tightend that back down that was the cause of the slow leak not the pressure unit...but i replaced it anyway..... my cars not stalling anymore i think it was just the old fuel in it on top of being midgrade..........


i havent really been able to get on it or play with it because of the sh!tty weather..but all in all doing better....still needs the body work and now headliner and interior ...sheesh.......if it aint 1 thing its another................guess it comes with a 16 y/o car
 
Its normal for rpms to drop when you push the clutch in. Eveything seems normal so, I wouldn't worry. Its good to properly maintain the condition of your car. If you notice a problem don't hesitate to investigate it. If you have any questions don't be afraid to ask.

You need to re-read the thread, the car dies, which is not normal by any means.

Back on topic..

Hows the car idle? Does it surge, is it low/high?
 
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