Master Cyclinder

[gsxeclipse97]

Is this hard to replace i know that are two bolts holding it on but how do you remove the second one there are no screws and there is nothing on the inside that you can unbolt to make it come out.

 

[cool_g_83]

I just did this replacement not too long ago in addition to the slave master cylinder. It wasn't really too bad, the part that took the longest for me was setting the nut on the MC firewall (engine side, very cramped ). Other than that it was all pretty straight forward.

Remove pin and bolt connecting master cylinder arm to the clutch pedal.
Remove bolt on interior side holding the MC to the firewall.
Remove bolt on engine side holding the MC to the firewall.
Drain system and put rags around the MC in the engine bay.
Disconnect the hard line coming out of the back of the MC.
Pull out MC

When putting in the new MC, fit it up to the firewall and set the nuts, but don't tighten down just yet (this was hard for me on the enginebay side).
Fit the MC arm onto the clutch pedal; grease the bolt and re-pin it.
Connect the hard line to the back of the MC, but do NOT strip it/cross-thread it.
Once that is connected, tighten down firewall bolts (interior and enginebay side).
Refill resevoir and bleed clutch.

Not that hard to do, hope this gives you confidence!

 

[gsxeclipse97]

I see that sounds fun!!! Not really.. I'll give it a shot and see what happens afterwards.

 

[DSMULATOR]

its kinda messy if you don't have plugs, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to bench bleed the master cylinder first before you install it. It saves you a lot of time pumping it afterward and possibly saves you from cutting the seals inside the master from pumping it dry for the first few times, not a guarantee to damage it, but its not the easiest part to remove and replace, so why do it more than once?

 

[cjb26]

where did you get the master cylinder from? i got mine installed at a tranny shop, and i went through two of them, and the third one i have now works, in a fashion. he said the stealership alone sells the high quality ones, so you might run into problems....just a heads up.

also, you'll know if you have a crappy one if you have to bleed it several times....

and, if you have a really bad one? it actually is a problem, the clutch pedal will stick to the floor in the middle of an intersection (take it from me)

good luck, let us know how it turns out

 

[gsxeclipse97]

Oriellys auto parts is where im going to get it. i haven't gone and picked it up yet mine is starting to stick but i think that its the one that came in the car to begin with

 

[Cs4g63]

The biggest problem with any master cylinder going out prematurely is the person installing it didnt properly bench bleed it. If you install the master cylinder without doing so its going to damage the seals inside when you first push the pedal down.

 

[gsxeclipse97]

How do you do that? Ive never replaced one before?

 

[gsxeclipse97]

Its also been 166,000 miles and ten years so i think that its time for a new one

 

[Rice Over Wheat]

What tipped you off that it needed replacing? I think mine may need to be replaced.

 

[DSMULATOR]

low or spongy pedal can be associated with a bad master cylinder. Also, pump the brakes up and hold pressure on the pedal. Does it slowly fade down or is it firm and doesn't move? If it fades down, fluid is leaking past the seals and you need to replace it.

Bench bleeding: The master usually comes with the kit and instructions. You basically fill the reservoir, attach plastic lines from each port that the brake lines hook into and route them back into the reservoir so they are submersed. You then pump the master cylinder by hand using a rod. Wait a few seconds between pumps. Just remember, try to let fluid come out of the lines naturally, called gravity bleeding, to allow fluid to lubricate the seals so you don't cut them when you pump them up the first time. Pump it by hand until you don't see any more air bubbles coming out of the lines and into the reservoir. Cap the lines off, install in car, and bleed at wheels using specified sequence.

 

[gsxeclipse97]

I replaced the slace cyclinder and the pedal was still sticking a bit, Then i looked under the dash and i was able to see fluid build up on the rod that goes through the firewall also i could see a light trail of dried fluid where it has been leaking. Another thing is that the white cap thats on there is almost impossible to get off. like its being held on there with a lot of force.

 

[gsxeclipse97]

low or spongy pedal can be associated with a bad master cylinder. Also, pump the brakes up and hold pressure on the pedal. Does it slowly fade down or is it firm and doesn't move? If it fades down, fluid is leaking past the seals and you need to replace it.

Bench bleeding: The master usually comes with the kit and instructions. You basically fill the reservoir, attach plastic lines from each port that the brake lines hook into and route them back into the reservoir so they are submersed. You then pump the master cylinder by hand using a rod. Wait a few seconds between pumps. Just remember, try to let fluid come out of the lines naturally, called gravity bleeding, to allow fluid to lubricate the seals so you don't cut them when you pump them up the first time. Pump it by hand until you don't see any more air bubbles coming out of the lines and into the reservoir. Cap the lines off, install in car, and bleed at wheels using specified sequence.

Bleed at wheels what do you mean? Are you refering to the brake master cyclinder?

 

[DSMULATOR]

Yeah, sorry I didn't know which master we were talking about. For the clutch, follow the same steps for bench bleeding and then once back in the car bleed at the slave cylinder bleeder like normal.