Ebay fmic piping kits?

[staticbrainwash]

Alright, i've read a lot about the awesome performance people are getting from ebay kits. I'm looking at input for the PIPING ONLY kits.

I recently picked up a core from a fellow tuner, and was looking to get some cheap piping for now. The ebay kits look decent, and i can easily fab up length if need be.

Just wondering if anyone has bought these kits and if they're decent at all. Or should i just pony over for some alum. bends from summit and fab it up on my own that way?

 

[kidrabbit84]

Ask the seller for what gauge (wall thickness) tube they are using. I picked up a down pipe for my Miata to put a T25 on it, and tube was made from very thin tube...about .040 thick. In the pics it looked solid, but in real life it was cheap. Some of these eBay clowns are using some retardly thin tube, just ask before you buy.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Turbo-Manifold-Downpipe-Mazda-90-93-Miata-MX5-1-6L_W0QQitemZ190104301817QQihZ009QQcategoryZ33631QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I picked it up for the flanges, but I figured I would run it till it cracks, and then weld in my own tubes.

 

[staticbrainwash]

Even if i just get something for now, till i get down to chicago and get a job i'd be happy. I just know this thing can't hang around too long since i'm moving in august.

 

[Thomas91169]

i wouldnt go aluminum, unless you know how to weld aluminum or know someone who can.

i would just get some U bends (3 @ 6" Radius should do it) and (1 @ 5') of 2.5" ID straight pipe from Summit in Stainless Steel (or mild steel if you plan on painting it/powdercoating it, mild steel is usually cheaper). i just did all the cutting myself and marked the pipe where they needed to be aligned and either took it to a buddy or a muffler shop and got it all welded up. they even can weld on the rolled lips so your couplers dont pop off.

 

[absolute_DSM]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...MEWN:IT&viewitem=&item=200082497849&rd=1&rd=1

106 shipped. I use the key words "2.5" (or 2 or 3) "intercooler" Thats it. Just make sure it has your bends you need.

zomkspeed is the company, no problems for me.

 

[staticbrainwash]

Those are the kits i've been lookig at too. I just wanna make sure the pipe is good.

There was one that was black pipe, same thickness, and came with couplers. (granted couplers are probably real crappy).

I don't know here, i found a site where mild steel bends are 18 bucks a piece. OR honestly, i could just but an alum kit, and get couplers for everything. I don't really plan on welding more than the bov flange.

 

[Thomas91169]

try to use the least amount of couplers as possible. 10 couplers is 20 possible leak locations.

oh and fernco (home depot) couplers only work post-intercooler. anywhere between the turbo and intercooler (hot side) will get really soft from the heat and just rip under boost, and should only be used for temporary use only. however i never had any issues with home depot couplers after the intercooler (cold side). spring the extra buck for silicon reinforced ones from the get go; it will save you lots of headache later.

 

[staticbrainwash]

I wouldn't use those couplers either way. Silicone, probably whatever comes with the kit but 4ply HTS ones for the hot side.

I'm debating what i want to do. Short route or long to my dejon uicp. I'll need the same bends pretty much either way. I don't know really. . . too much to consider with a limited budget.

 

[2gAWDTalon]

Thomas is right on this one. If you use some steal u bends you can mock the kit up and if you cant weld take it to a muffler shop and tell them to weld the pipes togather where you have marked them.
The less couplers you use the better.
The only reason to use couplers on intercooler piping is to leave a break in the piping to take it apart, that is it. If I never had to remove the UPIC it would be one solid welded peice.
I dont know what kind of core you are working with or what route you are planning on for the piping but regardless you should be able to get everything you need from summit for about 100. You will have better piping and a better set up system in the end for the same or less money.

 

[staticbrainwash]

Yeah, i'm leaning towards buying bends and doing it in mild steel and getting it coated or just painting it myself. Also, as i'm thinking about it right now, if i leave my uicp where it is and go long route, i can have. . . j-pipe, 180 around core, core, 90-45 to uicp, uicp, TB. All solid pieces. So i'd end up with 5 couplers total. Which probably isn't ideal still but i think it'd be the same either routing if i wanted to make it relatively removable. Hmmm. . .

I'm thinking total for bends i will need:
j-pipe
2 90's to get around core support
90 angled up a bit
45 to match to uicp

or short route:
j-pipe
2 90's
90
1-2 45's

Of course thats all rough estimates, but those should be the only angles i really need. I will just be fabbing length.

 

[absolute_DSM]

Sorry bout that, when I mentioned that kit I thought you would be welding it all up like me, Geoff.

I definately agree with the less couplers the better, but I also agree to have the initial connections from the TB, turbo, and each side of the IC to be couplers. Why? The engine moves and vibrates. Welds are meant to NOT move.

Just like what was said, 4 ply couplers + t clamps = a beautiful thing.

 

[staticbrainwash]

For sure, HTS will be getting my business for 4-5 4ply's with all t-bolts. Hah, that will probably cost more than the piping.

 

[Thomas91169]

I definately agree with the less couplers the better, but I also agree to have the initial connections from the TB, turbo, and each side of the IC to be couplers. Why? The engine moves and vibrates. Welds are meant to NOT move.

yup, this is also true. my hotside was loose enough to allow movement without putting too much strain on the couplers. the cold side post fmic pipe was so short it wouldnt move enough to matter, most of that movement would be taken up by the upper IC piping and coupers.

 

[staticbrainwash]

http://www.alliancelink.com/users/joshsdodge/ic1.html

Thats the core i have, bought it used from a fellow tuner.

So just for refrence for you guys.

 

[2gAWDTalon]

One hump hose on the hot side and one hump hose on the cold side should take care of any movement.
They will help to keep away from boost leaks longer also...

 

[staticbrainwash]

What the angle most people have on the pipe around the core support on the cold side?

Looking at it more, i'll need more of an angle than 90* to make that turn to match up with the TB elbow, if i go short route that is. If i go long. . . i'll be losing my fogs, which i don't like. But keeping my dejon uicp, which i do like.

Ugh, i'm like a woman about this. Haha!

 

[absolute_DSM]

Im not sure about the 1g but taking a 90 out the IC to go down, then another 90 to go back up *should* clear the support on a 2g. Thats assuming a 24x12x3 core.

Referencing back to the IC you have picked out, is it 31" overall, or 31" core?

 

[staticbrainwash]

31 overall.

 

[91eagle_tsi_awd]

look up cxracing on ebay or go to cxracing.com

i bought my aluminum pipes with couplers and t bolt clamps for like 102 dollars shipped.

the pipes are nice and thick ,not like other kits on ebay that bend easily..

the clamps are good quality also

and the couplers are pretty solid too..good quality.

 

[staticbrainwash]

How long you been running the pipes and couplers, and what psi?

 

[91eagle_tsi_awd]

How long you been running the pipes and couplers, and what psi?

i should be firing up the car this weekend ,but i wont be able to turn the boost up until i get my dsmlink..

i do know of another guy running 25psi on those couplers with no problem...

even if you dont want to use the couplers...you can still use the clamps and pipes...

for the price ,its still a bargain if you buy your silicone separate..

 

[staticbrainwash]

Thats where i think i'm getting my piping, good lookin out buddy! What i will do is just go to HTS and get a 12" tube of 2.5" silicone 4ply. 26 bucks can't be beat!