doing a clutch job, got some more advanced questions.

[VanIsleDSM]

so I've read my haynes, vfaq, and logic's article in the tech section here..

1st question: In logic's article he says you can use the 1/2" drive in the crank pully to hold the engine still while you take off the flywheel bolts, now I just had my crank pully off not long ago when I did the t-belt, I'm worried that torquing on the flywheel bolts might loosen my crank pully.. has this method been used with success a lot?

2nd question: I just want some input on how long people seem to be lasting with rebuilt slaves and master cylinders.. I'm going to bleed everything and I figure I'll rebuild them if the rebuild kits last, but if not I'll hold off as they aren't leaking now (original oem at 60,000miles) and buy some whole new units later on...

3rd question: reading my haynes manual I see that GL-4 Hypoid is recomended for the transfer case and GL-5 for the rear end, yet on the fluid faq on vfaq it says that you can use GL-4 or 5 for the transfer case.. I've already got some BG synchroshift for the tranny, and I'm kinda stuck here as to what I should do for the rear end and the transfer case, do they need different fluid or not?

 

[DGajre777]

Don't know about question 1.

Question 2 - I would suggest replacing them with Mitsubishi units, if you need to. If you aren't paying for labor, get it later.

Question 3 - The BG synchroshift is known to be too thin for the transfer case and rear diff. I used Redline Heavy Gear oil (red bottle) in the x-case and rear diff.

You can also mix BG synchroshift with another gear oil for the tranny, if you want. But I use straight synchromesh which is a cheaper alternative to synchroshift in the tranny.

Sorry, I couldn't help with the other questions.

 

[VanIsleDSM]

thanks DGajre,

maybe I wasn't completely clear on question 3, I know the BG is just for the tranny, I'm only curious as to why in the haynes does the transfer case call for GL-4 instead of GL-5 like the rear end? I know a lot of people use the same fluid for both, but should they? there must be a reason why haynes says GL-4 for the transfer.

 

[kidrabbit84]

My 2 cents:

Question 1:
I picked up a flywheel holder/rotation tool at Checker Autoparts for 15.00 bucks. It looks like this one: http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=775
It picks up the starter teeth ring on the flywheel. Have someone hold the handle, or wedge the handle against a piece of wood or jack while you break the bolts loose. You will not damage the starter teeth.

Question 2:
I might be tempted to rebuild the master and slave cylinders. I did mine at 84k due to seals in the master cylinder breaking down. I did the slave for insurance at the same time. I didn't use the rebuild kit because the remanufactured unit was only a few bucks more. I have 8k on LUK brand cylinders with no troubles yet.

 

[just2asian]

I just did my clutch about a week ago here's my 2 cents.

My car was pretty well taken care of. I didn't replace my slave or master because they were in great shape. I figure if they ever need replaced, then I will do it then, the slave is pretty easy to do on a FWD, not sure if it's the same location on a AWD.

As for taking my flywheel off I just zipped them off with a impact. Putting the new ones on you have to torque them, so I had a buddy hold the crank pulley as the bolts were being torqued, didn't run into any issues with that. I'd run some loctite on the new flywheel bolts, i wish I would have done that, not that I have ran into any issues, but it's just a piece of mind.

 

[Pyrice4]

Question 1: I put a screwdriver through the teeth of the flywheel into a hole in the engnie and it worked fine for holding it.