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Still have bad idle

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JeanDSM

15+ Year Contributor
405
1
Jun 23, 2004
Yabucoa, Puerto, Puerto Rico
This is my third thread now and the problem is bigger.

My car its been having bad idle, looks like the car has very agressive cams, since i intaled my new turbo kit. (look at my profile) Last two weeks i could run the car around but the idle still there. First i thought that it was beacuse i didnt have the O2 sensor conected, I plug it back and the problem wasnt fixed. Then i found out that the MDP sensor was broken, so in the other threads users told me that with dsmlink i could use the fake maf option and the problem will be fixed. Well the guy who sold me DSMlink said that he didnt think that the MDP sensor was the problem because he had it disconected cus he had a SMIM and his car runs fine.

Last night i installed my dsmlink. When i turn on the engine. (cold) it runs smooth for the first few second then when the car idles at 950 rpm's makes the idle problem, and the engine keeps droping the rev's until it stops the engine. I turn on the engine again (hot) and start having again the idle problem, I try to acelerate the engine and it dosent go over 2500rpm's sound like a cylinder is off or something.

I chek and doble check and triple check all the sensors, Maf Translator, O2, MDP, TPS, everything. There is no boost leak.

Right now i cant use my car, my girldfirend is taking me to college,
Theres got to be a stupid mistake problem, You guys have any sugestion?
Im new at dsmlink , is there something i could do here?
 
the other threads
http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=250897
http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=252460


My GM sensor is located diferent from many people, i would like you the see my profile gallery to see the pictures of it (I dont think this is the problem because last week i was spining tires at only 7psi. Today i cannot even run the engine over 2500rpms.)

Note:
My car was complete stock bone stock and i did all the mods in my profile in the month of january even the MAFT setup.

I was thinking on installing back the stock Maf but i dont know how to install it on a T04S 4 inch compressor housing. There was no other electricla sensors involved while doing the upgrade , just maft, battery in the trunk and removing the cruise control.
 
Update***

So.. i was working on the car today and i found out that seconds before the engine shuts off , beacuse of the problem the battery lights and other dash panel lights comes on. I checked the bettery terminals and there are two cables that goes from th terminal to the fusebox, they werent hooked up good. I tight them on and now i ran acelerate to 7500rpms, but now the idle keeps bumping even faster

anyone?????
 
Hey, sorry to hear about your problems.I was having the same problems you are. It seems to me that you have idle surge. Unfortunatly, one of the parts for your car is going to run you around 300. I would first check your IACV(idle air control valve) it is located under the throttle body.Here is a link to vfaq for idle surge and ISC (Idle speed control) http://dmtalon.v8eaters.com/ISC.html http://www.dsm.org/how-tos/tttt/tttt3.html .
 
Did you mess with the BISS without grounding anything? Like Str8 (^) said i also believe it is the ISC or FIAV. I prefer to use the second link because it give a better break down. I had the same problem last week and i fixed it so it isn''t too noticable. good luck
 
Did you mess with the BISS without grounding anything? Like Str8 (^) said i also believe it is the ISC or FIAV. I prefer to use the second link because it give a better break down. I had the same problem last week and i fixed it so it isn''t too noticable. good luck

Yes i did try the BISS screw , what did i had to ground? Did i did something wrong?



There are four wires like 8 gauge that goes from the battery terminal to the fuse box, does anyone knows what these wires do?
 
If the dash lights come on, it could be your alternator. The idle problem is usually connected to the ISC and the alternator - search a few threads and you'll see.
 
I think i found the problem but need help.

I havent run my car for a week now and it was having a bad idle problem and i couldnt rev over 2500 rpms. Today y turn on the engine and tried to keep it on. put the idle at 1500 rpms with dsmlink and waited and acelerate it and i found out that when the car reached 200deg of coolant tem, the problem was over. i run the car it was great. so i came back home and leave it to get cold. waited for 2 hours, turn on the engine again an the problem was back again until the car got over 190 deg coolant temp. problem was gone.

Is a bad sensor here. maybe the coolant sensor?
I can deal with it but i had to wait over 10 to 15 minutes to run the car.
can i work someting on dsmlink?
what can i do to at leat wait 3 min, to use my car?
 
I think i found the problem but need help.

I havent run my car for a week now and it was having a bad idle problem and i couldnt rev over 2500 rpms. Today y turn on the engine and tried to keep it on. put the idle at 1500 rpms with dsmlink and waited and acelerate it and i found out that when the car reached 200deg of coolant tem, the problem was over. i run the car it was great. so i came back home and leave it to get cold. waited for 2 hours, turn on the engine again an the problem was back again until the car got over 190 deg coolant temp. problem was gone.

Is a bad sensor here. maybe the coolant sensor?
I can deal with it but i had to wait over 10 to 15 minutes to run the car.
can i work someting on dsmlink?
what can i do to at leat wait 3 min, to use my car?

I know nothing about DSMLink, but back in my college days, we built an FSAE car, and the ECU (TecII) had warmup maps. The ECU would use those maps until the coolant temp sensor hit a certain value, then it'd switch to the normal maps. If DSMlink is similar, you might have wacky warmup maps. Just a suggestion.
 
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