EVO III 16g install struggling

[MrMirGST]

Well i just brought the new evo III 16g turbo from extremepsi.com with it ported and a 34.8 WG flapper valve. Now since i've been running my t25 stock without a boost controller for awhile now i didn't think it was necessary to have it asap. I have all the hard piping from dejon tool as well. Now everytime i try to boost up, the pipe pops out of one of the couplers especially the lower piping and it seems that i just can't get it going.Do i need longer couplers for the pipes or something. I'm just looking for any suggestions or do i have to upgrade my injections & fuel pump before i can expect any results, i'd appreciate any type of feedback.

 

[ILLiCliPSE]

do the pipes have a lip/ flared edge on them? thats suppose to prevent your problem. and yes to take advantage of the turbo, youre gonna need to up the fuel system. dont run anything past 14-15psi on the stock fuel system. although im running a t28 at 14psi w/ stock fuel, i see black smoke come out of my exhaust at WOT, so im probably running a tad rich, which is fine by me until i get tuned. but keep the boost levels low, but once you get fuel, a logger and a tuning device, you can turn the boost up and really get all of the power out of it.

 

[delta448]

Since you don't have a boost controller, did you at least remember to connect a vac line to the WG actuator?
If you're blowing pipes off at 12psi, then you're not connecting the pipes right. Like ILLiCliPSE said, they should have a lip or at least a couple little weld beads to put the clamp behind.

 

[bob123131]

take all the pipes off and line them up to make sure it should work. Then if it does look like it should work start on the opposite side leave a little room between each pipe. I wouldn't suggest that for high boost applications but for now you should be fine under liek 20 psi. So hoefuly at the end you will have made up enough room to get that last coupler on and stay. Also Maybe try a different clamp. As far as you asked about fuel etc what are you running. Stock fuel system should be fine up to 14 psi.

 

[patrarch]

If your pipe is popping out under boost its a clamping problem. Either the pipes you got are poor quality and don't have a lip, or you aren't clamping them right (the clamp should be positioned directly behind the lip clamping the coupler down onto the lip crease).

 

[talonracn49]

You need boost control. Get a MBC for around 50.00 -- no reason to risk your investment.

You may want to try the high dollar band clamps instead of hose clamps.

 

[kenamond]

Do you have a boost gauge other than the stocker on the dash? If so, update your profile. If not, how do you know you're not creeping to 20psi and popping the coupler?

Do you have the correct couplers? If the couplers are too large, the worm drive clamps aren't going to cut it.

Another option if the hose clamps are binding is to get some t-bolt clamps.

 

[bob123131]

If you do not have a boost gauge get one immediatly there is no reason to be upgrading any turbo application with out one.

 

[MrMirGST]

Yes i do have a boost gauge and i brought the pipes from dejon tool so i just used the couplers that they provided. Where can i get some better couplers if that's the case? Is there another place where i can get the lower 16g pipe other than dejon tool?

 

[matthewdesigns]

So you have a boost gauge...are you getting creep as suggested earlier? You could be overboosting and blowing the connectors off as kenamond said.

One thing to consider, and it may sound insignificant, but use a ratchet to tighten the hoseclamps, not a screwdriver. You'll never get them tight enough otherwise. Which could lead to the connectors coming loose/leaking under high boost.

I have a complete hard pipe intake setup from Dejon and there are beads on all the pipes, and I've not had any issues with the connectors or the pipes while running 16psi from my EvoIII16G.

 

[romeen]

As kenamond suggested t-bolt clamps are great but a little pricier than worm gear clamps. They hold way more pressure and dont cut into the coupler. If for some reason the pipes you got don't have a bead on them RRE's website has some suggestions for putting a bead on, I believe it's under the DIY section.

 

[talontuner1997]

im running cilicon couplers and t-bolt clamps on my car. Ive never had a problem since i switched. This problem could also be caused by worn motor mounts, its allowing the engine to roll to far forward, i had the same problem with the lower ic popping off. Now i run prothane mounts, good luck.