help with a 2.3 build

[2point3Tsi]

So my goal is 400+ whp and my budget is 8k or so. I want to build everything to make it reliable including drivetrain and transmission as I plan to use nos on the strip as well.

heres my running parts list
garret gt 3037r (overkill?) $1200
Act 2600/2900 clutch kit $443
Shep stage 2/3 $1440/2000
3-g no-tick lifters $160
DSMlink $600
Wastegate $200
Intake manifold (not sure which one) $500
Tubular Turbo manifold $400
BOV hks seq. $180
Boost controller $100-300
Shortblock from SBR or stroker kit $1200-1700
Fuel rail (thinking about areomotive) $150
Fuel injectors $320
Fuel pump $100
Axles driveshaft shop $1100
Drive shaft 2pc $750
Greddy Intercooler kit $900
Nos $620


1) Has anyone gone with shep transmissions? stage two or three looked adequete for my I'm just looking for feed back.

2) Dsm link works for bov's and wastegate's that are vented to atmoshpere right?

3) Are wideband O2 required or just for tuning?

 

[a_scobel]

So my goal is 400+ whp and my budget is 8k or so. I want to build everything to make it reliable including drivetrain and transmission as I plan to use nos on the strip as well.

heres my running parts list
garret gt 3037r (overkill?) $1200
Act 2600/2900 clutch kit $443
Shep stage 2/3 $1440/2000
3-g no-tick lifters $160
DSMlink $600
Wastegate $200
Intake manifold (not sure which one) $500
Tubular Turbo manifold $400
BOV hks seq. $180
Boost controller $100-300
Shortblock from SBR or stroker kit $1200-1700
Fuel rail (thinking about areomotive) $150
Fuel injectors $320
Fuel pump $100
Axles driveshaft shop $1100
Drive shaft 2pc $750
Greddy Intercooler kit $900
Nos $620


1) Has anyone gone with shep transmissions? stage two or three looked adequete for my I'm just looking for feed back.

2) Dsm link works for bov's and wastegate's that are vented to atmoshpere right?

3) Are wideband O2 required or just for tuning?

I'm guessing you're going for 400-500 hp? Looking on Shep's transmission page obviously stage 3 would be perfect, since it says for 400-600 hp..I'm guessing stage 2 would work too, but you're saying you want it reliable..that's kinda hard when modding, it's like the saying goes..Fast, Reliable, Cheap. You can only pick two of those, the one left out is what you're NOT gonna get. Or so they say...picking fast & reliable just might be an oxymoron, no matter how much money you put into it. Even still, I'd have no doubt that even a stage 2 Shep tranny could stay pretty reliable at 400 or even 500+ hp.

DSMLink won't do anything for your vented BOV, which it's highly recommended you don't do...get a MAFT if you want to vent. Wastegates venting to atmosphere work just fine though, DSMLink or not.

Wideband's definetely required if you're wanting to mod your car this much. Good luck trying to tune the car using the stock ECU's shitty a/f ratio it'll give you.

On a couple side notes..you shouldn't need to upgrade your fuel rail, the stock one would handle 400+ hp just fine. Unless you're just looking to make your engine bay a little easier on the eyes. Fuel pump, definetely go with the Walbro 255...Injectors, just get the biggest ones you can get, since you're going with DSMLink anyways, & 1000cc injectors cost the same as say 680cc.

As far as Nos..ehh I'm not a fan of the stuff. I think you shouldn't use Nos unless there's absolutely no other way to squeeze more power out of your car..ie., Shep's car.

Lastly, if I'm not mistaken, the gt3037 is a 500hp turbo? Somebody correct me if I'm wrong..so that'd be plenty to net you 400+.

 

[SBR Chris]

heres my running parts list
garret gt 3037r (overkill?) $1200
Act 2600/2900 clutch kit $443
Shep stage 2/3 $1440/2000
3-g no-tick lifters $160
DSMlink $600
Wastegate $200
Intake manifold (not sure which one) $500
Tubular Turbo manifold $400
BOV hks seq. $180
Boost controller $100-300
Shortblock from SBR or stroker kit $1200-1700
Fuel rail (thinking about areomotive) $150
Fuel injectors $320
Fuel pump $100
Axles driveshaft shop $1100
Drive shaft 2pc $750
Greddy Intercooler kit $900
Nos $620

Sounds like you have a pretty good list setup. If it were me though, I would use a Cast Manifold instead of a Tubular one. Since this is a street car, you'll want all of the reliability you can get. When it comes to BOV's, my personal favorite is the Tial. The HKS though would be a distant second. I wouldn't bother with DSS Axles until you need them. Thats a lot of ching to spend. When it comes to the FMIC, I would steer clear of the Greddy kit. This kit isn't really worth the money, and you can get a MUCH better core, for even less money.

Nitrous, well, unless your spraying your IC, I wouldn't bother. You're building a street car, make it a street car. You wouldn't be running N2O all the time on the street. Plus, you can go very fast without it. Not to mention the risks of it.

1) Has anyone gone with shep transmissions? stage two or three looked adequete for my I'm just looking for feed back.

Shep builds some of the best in the buisness. Most people here, who've needed to rebuild, have gone that route. It's been covered 1000X. He's the man.

2) Dsm link works for bov's and wastegate's that are vented to atmoshpere right?

Not really. It will help, but still not quite right. DSMLink, and a MAFT combination will make venting your BOV to the Atmosphere a dream! Venting your W/G will really make no difference.

3) Are wideband O2 required or just for tuning?

Wideband's are primarily for tuning, but will also notify you of a serious lean condition, if you have the gauge to go with it. I like the Innovate, and the AEM unit's with the gauges.

Hope I've helped you!

Chris Boone
Slowboy Racing Inc.

 

[syclone]

just currious as to why you are changing a lot of the items on you car, in your profile you list the following:

PTE SCM5031BB, SBR new cast Exhaust Mani (ported), LIPP O2 housing, JRC FMIC w/ 2.5" piping, PTE 680 Injectors, Walbro 250LPH HP Fuel pump, Aeromotive FPR w/ Marshall pressure gauge, Forge Motorsports BOV, K&N FIPK, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, B&M Short Shifter, Energy Suspension Polyurethane shifter bushings, Underhood shifter bushings, SS Clutch line, 3" turboback exhaust w/ Megan Racing downpipe, Test pipe & Magnflow muffler, NGK Plugs w/ Magnecor 8.5mm wires, Heat Shield from TurboGarage, Joe P MBC, Aluminum intake pipe, Optima Redtop, ECU+, LC-1 Wideband

you ask about a wideband but you already have one
are you changing everything like the front mount you have and the clutch you have just for the stroker?

 

[JayRolla]

If you want a track car make sure you get a welded diff, or 4 spider gear diff. If not you will kill that tranny.

Maf-t is need to vent the bov.

 

[1gcrazy]

Please....its NITROUS...not nos.

With such a nice car you're not gonna wanna sound like an ricer....er can i even say that word?

Wideband is almost required.

NITROUS...isn't. Its a real bummer when your bottle runs out and it runs like crap until you turn the switch off...especially in the middle of a race.

My goals are about 400ish and i'm starting on the act 2600, mainly for financial reasons. I wont be at 400 for a while though. If i had the cash to spend i'd do the 2900.

Again, it was stated before, dont buy the axles unless you need it. I would even question the driveshaft but i've yet to be at your goal so...i can't really say whether you'll need it or not. I wouldn't buy it until it breaks.

Our fuel rails are rated upwards of 600hp from what i understood. Maybe I just made that number up but my point is you dont need an aftermarket, like stated above.

Electronic boost controllers are only good and reliable up to about 25psi. After that Mechanical is the way to go. Save your cash and get mechanical. Go two stage if you want some variation. Thats where i'm goin, street trim and economical trim...

Now the only way this set up is going to be any good is if you get it tuned RIGHT. Let me say that again, the only way this set up is going to be any good is if you get it tuned RIGHT.
That means, dont slack on the tune. People have gained an amazing amount of horsepower with a good tune... Read up on it cus thats where shit gets tricky.

 

[twicks69]

The GT3037R will get you 400wheel. Personally, I wouldn't replace that until after you have the engine in the car. That BB 50-trim is going to spool like a 14B -- it is a fantastic street setup, and will likely get you darn close to 400wheel on it.

The Greddy FMIC kit is crap, if you are going to do it with quality stuff, I would reccomend a Precision Turbo medium or large core with 2.5" Custom IC pipes. You will be able to have more efficient piping design along with better end tank and core design using the PTE core.

The DSS axles are not needed for your proposed application. If you are going to spend that money anywhere else, I would reccomend upgraded urethane motor mounts with a good set of slicks, and 4-spider center diff.

Also, the stock fuel rail with -6AN fittings will be plenty for you; it is doing just fine on my application with 600+whp. I know for a fact that the stock rail with -8AN fittings can support over 800whp because Jake Hanhardt (Topstreet) did it last year with no problems.

As for fuel, 1000cc injectors, a walboro 255HP, and a -6AN fuel line upgrade from a billet filter to rail, and rail-to-Aeromotive AFPR-to-firewall return line will be plenty for your setup and will provide a good platform for you in the future.

The driveshaft is an unnecessary upgrade for your application at this time, save your money.

The nitrous is not needed, and not worth the hassle, again, save your money.

The electronic boost controller isn't worth the money. After using several MBC's in the past, the best I have found are the turbosmart and the ATP turbo MBC's, and both are under $100.

A wideband is definitely in your best interests. I have had bad luck with my AEM wideband; failing O2 sensors in less than 3000miles a piece. I have had good luck with my M500 wideband.


I would say, go with a stroker setup and the 50-trim for right now, then you can upgrade the turbo in the future.
The 3037 isn't much more power than the 50 trim. If anything, when you want to shoot for 500+ whp, look at a 35R.

Hopefully this advice helps.

 

[JayRolla]

Ohh yea dont say you will hit the strip with NOS. Thats like saying im hitting the track with Slowboy. ITs the name of a company.

 

[2point3Tsi]

Ok so scratch the axles, driveshaft, nitrous and greddy kit. Upgrade everything to the rail. someone want to explain 4-spider diff to me and how it differs from the viscous lsd that came with the car? DSM link + MAF-t + bov vented right? and tuning, yes tuning, there is a local speed shop with an awd dyno that works on imports around here. It seems like awd dyno's are hard to come by. And dual-stage boost controllers? How does change booost levels affect your fuel maps? How does it know/compensate for fuel need? or can one fuel map run two boost levels? it just doesn't sound right to me.

 

[JayRolla]

If you ran two boost levels you need would have to tune it twice and just save both tunes in dsmlink. The vicous coupler is in the rear I think.

The stock tranny has a two spider gear diff. The 4 spider gear diff has four gears instead of two and is way stronger. Make sure you get the torrington bearing upgrade. It keeps the gears tighter so less chance of breaking. Great for studder box launch's.

Yes maf-t and dsmlink means you can run the bov to atmosphere.

 

[a_scobel]

just currious as to why you are changing a lot of the items on you car, in your profile you list the following:

PTE SCM5031BB, SBR new cast Exhaust Mani (ported), LIPP O2 housing, JRC FMIC w/ 2.5" piping, PTE 680 Injectors, Walbro 250LPH HP Fuel pump, Aeromotive FPR w/ Marshall pressure gauge, Forge Motorsports BOV, K&N FIPK, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, B&M Short Shifter, Energy Suspension Polyurethane shifter bushings, Underhood shifter bushings, SS Clutch line, 3" turboback exhaust w/ Megan Racing downpipe, Test pipe & Magnflow muffler, NGK Plugs w/ Magnecor 8.5mm wires, Heat Shield from TurboGarage, Joe P MBC, Aluminum intake pipe, Optima Redtop, ECU+, LC-1 Wideband

you ask about a wideband but you already have one
are you changing everything like the front mount you have and the clutch you have just for the stroker?

The GT3037R will get you 400wheel. Personally, I wouldn't replace that until after you have the engine in the car. That BB 50-trim is going to spool like a 14B -- it is a fantastic street setup, and will likely get you darn close to 400wheel on it.

Eh...that's my mods list, dude. You looked at the wrong profile..ha

 

[1gcrazy]

If you ran two boost levels you need would have to tune it twice and just save both tunes in dsmlink. The vicous coupler is in the rear I think.

The stock tranny has a two spider gear diff. The 4 spider gear diff has four gears instead of two and is way stronger. Make sure you get the torrington bearing upgrade. It keeps the gears tighter so less chance of breaking. Great for studder box launch's.

Yes maf-t and dsmlink means you can run the bov to atmosphere.

The 4 spider diff will help the fwd guys with the one legged burnouts and us awd with traction in general. I'm not sure about toughness...dont have one.

 

[projecTSI]

the gt3037r is probably a little overkill. You can pick up a 50 trim for much cheaper and that will meet your goal with the stroker. As far as trannies go, Shep and TRE make the best dsm tannies, so you would be good going with either one. Look into SBR's cast manifold instead of a tubular one, because it is a daily driver. For the intake manifold, go with a JMF. Excellent quality and customer service, and you can choose the throttle body flange you want. Good luck with the build.

 

[twicks69]

Eh...that's my mods list, dude. You looked at the wrong profile..ha

Man, i hate it when I take another's word for something without researching it myself!

I just saw that his only mod is a short shifter.....well, we have alot of work to do then. I guess I will still stand by my statement of the GT3037R will get you 400whp, along with a BB 50-trim. Unfortunately, you currently have a T25....and will definitely need to upgrade when running the stroker.

If you ran the T25 on it, you would be probably boosting around 2 rpms (not thousand), and running out of steam by 5 rpms. The stroker just flows so much more that it is a no-brainer that you wil need an upgrade. I would say that an Evo 3 16G should be the SMALLEST turbo you should even consider. More effectively, the GT3037R (or the BB 50-trim) is a good low-end/midrange turbo that will have excellent street characteristics, and will meet your horseopower goals.

 

[a_scobel]

If you ran the T25 on it, you would be probably boosting around 2 rpms (not thousand), and running out of steam by 5 rpms. The stroker just flows so much more that it is a no-brainer that you wil need an upgrade. I would say that an Evo 3 16G should be the SMALLEST turbo you should even consider. More effectively, the GT3037R (or the BB 50-trim) is a good low-end/midrange turbo that will have excellent street characteristics, and will meet your horseopower goals.

Even that 16G would be a poor choice. 400+ hp on it is pretty much a slim to none chance. Some people have done it, but very few.

Also like said above, I'd recommend SBR's cast manifolds too...tubular ones are so overrated. Only get it if you want a prettier engine bay, like the fuel rail.

 

[2point3Tsi]

can I break in my motor with the t25 then switch?

 

[a_scobel]

can I break in my motor with the t25 then switch?

Yes, that's what many people do & what's recommended so you don't get any metal shavings going into your brand new turbo. Of course lower the boost, etc. Some say to run it a little hard on the first few drives to seat the rings properly, then take it easy for a couple hundred miles or so...never have dealth with a newly rebuilt motor though so yeah.

 

[Locutus78]

Unless you are going for a RR setup, DO NOT put a EVOIII 16g on a 2.3 stroker. My engine came out of a RR car, so it had a E3. My stroker setup was making that poor 16g hit full boost at 2700ish RPM and fell off at 5100rpm, not to mention it was flowing 45lbs at 2400hz. I will be completing the new turbo install today. I went with a SCM-6152e. Inexpensive for a max 630hp. I will let you know how it turns out. You can see the rest of my setup in my profile.

 

[2point3Tsi]

whats an RR setup? or E3?

 

[projecTSI]

RR= Rally racing

E3= Evo III 16g

 

[a_scobel]

whats an RR setup? or E3?

Rally Race & Evo 3. For the 400+ hp you're looking for, definetely look bigger than a 16G. I'd say get at least a 60-trim or equivalent turbo.