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Novablue454

15+ Year Contributor
166
0
Oct 21, 2006
Arvada, Colorado
so after lots of reading and thinking, ive decided to get all the supporting mods for my car before the turbo. so a few days ago I ordered an Apex'i SAFC-II, a TurboXS Type H-RFL BOV, a Apex'i N1 catback, and a Walbro 255. Next order im thinking injectors, fuel rail, FPR, cam gears, and perhaps cams.

A friend and I are going to try and get everything installed this weekend. We will also be doing the timing belt, balance shaft belt, and water pump at the same time.

So what do you think of the setup so far? any tips on installing this stuff is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Justin
 
I see you ordered a RFL BOV. Did you purchase a kit to recirculate the RFL? IF not you will have to custom make something to have it recirculate into the intake.

The noice it great and truly realy loud. I have a knock off one of ebay and its loud.

I switched back though cause I was using more gas and car just didnt seem to like it much at higher speeds releasing the air into the atmosphere.

Most members on here will tell you to recirculate the BOV.

Just thought Id let you know in case you didnt.

List looks good too.

If im not mistaken, you need the FPR with the Walbro. I'm sure someone one here thought will confirm that if thats the case.

Have fun installing! If you can since you have the timing belt of, I would see if its in your budget to change the headgasket and put some ARP head bolt in there to handle more boost. Just thought id put my 2cent in on that since youll already have the belt off. Will save you time in the long run.
 
I've got a stock FPR with the same fuel pump. I haven't had any problems, but a search will reveal that its hit or miss.
 
i was under the impression that i could manipulate the fuel with the SAFC to the point where i could vent to the atmosphere without any issues. oh well.

has anyone heard a DSM with an Apex'i N1?
 
Yea I have the full N1 catback with the N1 downpipe and I really like it, its more of a deep beefy tone then loud and annoying. I would send a sound clip if I had one. In my opinion good choice!
 
If i were you i'd cancel the Turbo XS bov or send it back once you get it, those things are so crappy, my friend's leaked at 4 psi. We also had to put 8 extra washers in it to try to keep it from compressor surging but that didnt help one bit.
 
Im pretty sure he can tune accordingly with the safc-II if he wanted to vent using a stock mas.

Wrong, you will not be able to tune it out with a SAFC. SAFC tune by manipulating the airflow signal at preset RPM points, how could you tun it lean for when you shift since it always at a different RPM? Your car is going to run like crap for a second after you shift... even on part throttle if you get into boost and then shift soft it will sometimes backfire. You def. need to recirculate the BOV unless you are going MAFT with a GM MAS in a blow through configuration. My 4" FP intake pipe doesn't have the port to recirculate my BOV and I am still on the Stock MAS so I just use the NTLS feature in DSMLink. Since the throttle plate never closes it prevents that problem but under light driving I notice it.

In responce to the 255, you will probley be alright if you dont rewire it. If you do rewire it, the 255 will overrun the stock FPR and you will be very rich...
 
As everyone else said fuel rail is a waste, but you are going to need the fuel pressure regulator to prevent overrun on the injectors. Also why buy such a big fuel pump for stock turbo, a 3 inch catback and bov?
Also if you were gonna buy the maf and translator you might as well just tune with that and skip out on the safcII. The Gen2 Maf translator is nice looking and it even has wideband tracking so you could put in what afr you wanna run and it'll tune accordingly
 
I suggest skipping the cam gears unless you plan to spend hours and hundreds of dollars at the dyno. The aftermarket cams we have available are designed to be a drop in affair. Sure you can squeeze a few more hp out of them by degreeing them properly. But in my opinion, that few horsepower is not worth spending the money on cam gears.
 
Just to help clear a few things.

1. As explained above, you will not be able to tuned out the effects of a vented BOV via SAFC.

2. A 255 pump, rewired or not, will overrun the stock FPR. Anyone claiming otherwise either have fuel leaks, defective pump/installation, clogged fuel filter, do not own a fuel gauge or isn't logging.

3. FPR overrun can not be tuned out via a SAFC for pretty much the same reasons as a vented BOV.

As for your list of parts.

1. You have no need for a SAFC until you get injectors.

2. You have no need for the BOV because your 1G BOV will hold more boost. "Performance" wise, this is a down grade. "Rice wise", this is a must have item. :)

3. Catback "good".

4. Pump "good" but AFPR is a "must".

5. Cam gears and fuel rail "never".

6. Cams "not yet".

7. Injectors, SAFC and logger all together.

Sorry for being brutal but your list sucked. :p http://www.dsmtuners.com/sub.php?page=1gtupgrades
 
im pretty much going off of that link.
i have a boost guage and boost controller and i just got the cat back and fuel pump. Im going to do the manifold and downpipe with the new turbo, i just need to decide what I want to use the car for before i can get one. And with more air, you need more fuel, so im going to be purchasing new injectors as soon as i figure out what size i'll need. hence the safc.
 
Listen to oldman, he's the man

safc = 650ish cc injcetors anything bigger isn't a quality tune.

a safc + logger/palm combo will run you around $200 less than dsmlink + eprom. You may want to go with the dsmlink combo and you can run larger injectors that way also.

sleeper > ricer

search: "dsm purity" it's a great guideline to follow :rocks:
 
On DSMtuners.com and other car forums where a car runs on a stock Karman style MAF system, venting your blow off valve is NOT COOL. Reason being, the only reason someone would vent, is for the cool WHOOOOOSH blow off sound, where as performancewise, you are running extremely rich during shifts and messing up airflow (really MAF voltage) in your metering system.

Hence, whoosh + crappier performance = rice.
 
well like ive said i was under the impression that you could fix the air/fuel ratio with the safc. looks like im now in the market for a MAF-T and as for the fpr im getting an aeromotive on monday.
 
Make sure you get the install kit for the fpr as well, or else you will end up with just the fpr and have no way to install it.
But as many above me have said, get rid of the RFL(Really Fcking Loud) bov and get a decent bov, such as a Greddy type S(can be had cheap used), or Greddy RS(opinions vary on this bov). With the RS you will have to get a recriculation kit for it however.
Instead of "being in the market for a MAF-T" get a recirculated bov and call it a day, If you have a lot of patience and a program such as DSMLink you can set-up a MAF-T properly, but it is a huge PITA to get the GM MAF setup properly to make accurate readings. Not to mention thats just more money wasted to buy the MAF-T when the whole need for it could be solved by just using a recirculated BOV.
Your mod list should follow this basic upgrade path: http://dsmtuners.com/sub.php?page=1gtupgrades

Use the resources here on tuners, they have set this site up to be an easy resource for people to start off on the right foot for modding their car.
 
well like ive said i was under the impression that you could fix the air/fuel ratio with the safc. looks like im now in the market for a MAF-T and as for the fpr im getting an aeromotive on monday.

Why would you spend all of the money on the MAF-T when you could just reinstall the stock BOV and recirculate it?
 
beacause im planning on doing alot more to it then just what i bought that order. ALOT more. when i have the time and resources the engine is coming out and getting a full build, a larger turbo, injectors, etc and from what ive heard the karman mass airflow senser isnt only really restrictive, it flat out suucks fir more powerful engines.
 
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