will the bearings dry? *pics inside*

[boosted86]

hey every one, i have a quick question,the guy that built my motor, put every thing together using engine oil,(not assembly lube) because we where under the impression that we would have start up with in a couple of days, but we ran into some difficulties, so now im going on 3 weeks, and plan on "start up" in about in a week or two. my question is will i be ok? do you think my bearings will have dried up? if so should i take apart the main caps and put some assembly lube on, or something thick.

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....almost ready to get dropped in.

 

[awdtalontsi1992]

I would definately recommend you take of the main and rod bearing caps at put some assembly lube on them. Make sure to only remove one at a time. Also make sure to lube the valvetrain as well. You can not lube the bearings but you will be taking a risk with your new motor. If you aren't going to lube them up make sure you prime the oil system really well.

 

[GVR4592]

I don't know why the guy that assembled the engine didn't use any assembly lube, that's pretty stupid. I'd say that it's his responsibility to disassemble the engine and put assembly lube on everything and reassemble it.

 

[92awddsm]

Pull the timing belt off and prime the system by spinning the oil pump. With a drill, 1/4" extension, hack saw, and a 14mm 1/4 socket, you can make a tool to spin the pump. Make sure you have oil up to the head before you stop priming. Now, reinstall tb and fire the engine. Oil pressure will come up immediately and no worries of a dry start.

 

[boosted86]

so i should just prime the motor before start up(which i was going to to originally).....and not remove the mains and rods...correct?

 

[WeaselHack]

Pull the timing belt off and prime the system by spinning the oil pump. With a drill, 1/4" extension, hack saw, and a 14mm 1/4 socket, you can make a tool to spin the pump. Make sure you have oil up to the head before you stop priming. Now, reinstall tb and fire the engine. Oil pressure will come up immediately and no worries of a dry start.

Nice tip! I will remember that one

 

[nightspeed87]

I don't know why the guy that assembled the engine didn't use any assembly lube, that's pretty stupid. I'd say that it's his responsibility to disassemble the engine and put assembly lube on everything and reassemble it.

Exactly.... If you dont feel like doing the work and cant get him to do it, just keep priming it till you get a decent amount of oil up to the head, because once the head has oil then you know the rest of the engine does as well. Also did you remove balance shafts?

Pull the timing belt off and prime the system by spinning the oil pump. With a drill, 1/4" extension, hack saw, and a 14mm 1/4 socket, you can make a tool to spin the pump. Make sure you have oil up to the head before you stop priming. Now, reinstall tb and fire the engine. Oil pressure will come up immediately and no worries of a dry start.

cant you just pull out the mpi fuse and let the engine crank over like 10 times or so and get the same effect as what you just said without having to touch the tb?

 

[syclone]

no you can not get the same affect.
by removing the timing belt and cranking over the oil system the only moving part is the oil system pumping oil to everything, crank, rods, pistons, cams do not move.

if you remove the fuse, you are still turning over the crank rods pistons, valves, cams etc. which would not be any more bennificial that just starting it.

Jamie Sanders

 

[T is for TURBO]

I would think it would be better to leave the timming belt on and pull the MPI fuse. That way to ARE turning the engine over, allowing all the bearing surfaces to get oiled.

But what do I know...

-Shawn

(It worked for me... pulled the mpi fuse, turned it over several times, plugged the MPI fuse back in, started the car, and the oil pressure instantly shot up to over 100 psi)

 

[syclone]

sure that will work, but the problem is the "dry" time from when you start cranking it over until the time the oil pump pushes the oil up to everything. until this happens you are turning dry bearings. in this case particularly where no assembly lube was used.

By first turning the oil pump only with a drill as stated above will ensure the oil pump is primed and oil is alredy to everything. you will see the oil actually squirting out at the top of the head. so you know for a fact the pump is primed and oil is to everything

NOW it is time to pull the MPI fuse and crank it over.

at least I think this is the safest way to do it.

 

[92awddsm]

sure that will work, but the problem is the "dry" time from when you start cranking it over until the time the oil pump pushes the oil up to everything. until this happens you are turning dry bearings. in this case particularly where no assembly lube was used.

Exactly. Why would you spin the engine on dry bearings to prime the system?

 

[1990talon]

100 psi

our cars on idle over 100 psi.

 

[nightspeed87]

sure that will work, but the problem is the "dry" time from when you start cranking it over until the time the oil pump pushes the oil up to everything. until this happens you are turning dry bearings. in this case particularly where no assembly lube was used.

By first turning the oil pump only with a drill as stated above will ensure the oil pump is primed and oil is alredy to everything. you will see the oil actually squirting out at the top of the head. so you know for a fact the pump is primed and oil is to everything

NOW it is time to pull the MPI fuse and crank it over.

at least I think this is the safest way to do it.

yea but the car is turning over in full rotations when you pull the mpi fuse its just not getting fuel. Therefore the oil pump is still sending oil in your system if you keep turning it long enough it will get to all the important parts, and on top of that since its not truely firing up and turning on then your not putting as much pressure on the actual parts because its not even at idle rpm at that point... I dont know pulling the mp1 fuse worked for me, but then again all my parts were assembly lubed and I did rotate the engine over with a break bar by hand several times before putting the timing assembly back .

 

[syclone]

if you keep turning it long enough it will get to all the important parts,

OK, i'll try one more time then I'm done . your above statement makes my point exactly
until you have turned it long enough you are spinning a dry motor. agreed?
now, with that said priming the oil pump and pushing the oil to everything. then pulling the fuse and cranking it over will equal less time you are spining over a "dry"motor.

 

[92awddsm]

yea but the car is turning over in full rotations when you pull the mpi fuse its just not getting fuel. Therefore the oil pump is still sending oil in your system if you keep turning it long enough it will get to all the important parts, and on top of that since its not truely firing up and turning on then your not putting as much pressure on the actual parts because its not even at idle rpm at that point... .

Wrong. If you spin it with dry bearings, the rotation of the crank in the dry bearing will create wear. Just because it isnt getting fuel doesnt mean it wont wear. The system needs to be primed before timing belt install. Once the belt has been installed and the engine is in the car, remove the spark plugs and mpi fuse and reprime. This will lubricate the bearings with no load on them. Even with just the mpi fuse removed, you still have compression load on the bearings and if they are dry, they will wear.

 

[nightspeed87]

I dont know pulling the mp1 fuse worked for me, but then again all my parts were assembly lubed and I did rotate the engine over with a break bar by hand several times before putting the timing assembly back .

Yea I just figured itd be less force on the actual parts doing it that way, than actually firing it up dry.? I suppose since the guy didnt use the assembly lube may have to do what yall said and take all that apart.

 

[T is for TURBO]

our cars on idle over 100 psi.

Cold start - balance shafts + high idle = 100psi

 

[T is for TURBO]

sure that will work, but the problem is the "dry" time from when you start cranking it over until the time the oil pump pushes the oil up to everything. until this happens you are turning dry bearings. in this case particularly where no assembly lube was used.

By first turning the oil pump only with a drill as stated above will ensure the oil pump is primed and oil is alredy to everything. you will see the oil actually squirting out at the top of the head. so you know for a fact the pump is primed and oil is to everything

NOW it is time to pull the MPI fuse and crank it over.

at least I think this is the safest way to do it.

Okay, I'm an idiot... I thought you were saying, JUST use the drill, re-time it, than start it up...

Yes, I agree with you, as I did the same thing (drill on oil pump) before I put my 6 bolt in that sat for about a year. After I used the drill, I timed it, put the motor in, than pulled the mpi....

I'm glad I can read....

-Shawn

 

[1990talon]

Cold start - balance shafts + high idle = 100psi

Mabey at WOT.

 

[blackGSX2g]

Mabey at WOT.

Our oil pressure is RPM dependant, not load dependant. I get around 100psi of oil pressure on cold starts, completely normal.

If your driving and see that high oil pressure with fully warmed up oil, you need to port the releif valve in your oil filter housing so that that pressure can be bled off.

 

[tearintalon1]

if you used a good quality engine oil and alot of it than crank the motor without the spark on and that will pressureize the system . if you didnt use alot of oil than they do sell or borrow and oil blatter to be hooked in where the sensor goes. to fill in a quart or 2 of fresh oil to the oil passages as your rotate the motor by hand a quarter at a time as you fill it.Because i see you already have the motor inside the car and it would be a shame to pull everything apart. Let me know what happened!!!

 

[T is for TURBO]

Mabey at WOT.

No...

 

[1gcrazy]

Ok, so i'm only writing this to try and better the process and the overall reliability of the motor. If theirs a flaw so be it. Try and improve on it. No flaming!
Is there a way to prime the pump every time you start the car? My dads drag Nova...he had a switch for the electronic fuel pump to prime it and therefor decreasing start times. Kind of the same idea, ya follow? I havn't had much experience inside of our engines. So, maybe later on i could mock something up.
Just think how much longer these engines would last even with 500hp if you never had a dry start?
Anyways. Thats my brilliant idea for the day. I think they even have electronic oil pumps but the life of your engine relies on a 14 gauge wire and i don't find that too comforting.

Next idea, instead of pouring the oil in the fill cap. Open up the valve cover and poor it all over the springs and valves and what not. It wouldn't make MUCH difference but ya know...every little bit helps. If it didn't we'd just use oil to assemble our engines

Just idea's...lemme know what you think.