Am I Being Ripped Off?

[96gstdsm]

I just dropped my eclipse gs-t off at a performance shop to get my clutch and flywheel replaced as well as axle seals and rear main seal. it is a fair price(400) The guy there said that since my car has 142k on it the axles were almost definately seized and would have to be replaced. The car handled and steered find and everything untill i stopped driving it. he has not looked at it yet but says eclipse always need to have their axles replaced once they reach high miles. He said if that is the case it would be another 400 to fix that. Which i dont have the money for nor do i want to do that. If the car was handling and steering fine and all when i last drove it, the axles should be fine right? He said somhting like it could still drive normal but they would be seized and need replacing anyways, something like that. Just seems shady to me. First time at this place so you can never be too cautious.
Does anyone have any input into this? I told him to contact me before do ANYTHING extra.

Seems to me that if it drove fine before the axles would still be fine as well. There are virtually no performance mods done to it and it has not been a track car or anything like that.

----ryan.

 

[awdtalontsi1992]

If your axles were siezed then you would have definately noticed it. I would skip having them replaced. That being said having him check the axle boots would make sense. If they are cracking or are cracked already now might be the time to get them replaced. If they are torn and are letting the grease out THEN the axles could possibly sieze.

 

[Splitpi]

How long did the car sit since you last drove it? A day, week, month, year? Condensation/weather/debri can get into the axels and rust/seize the axles over time. I.e. they could have been on their way out when you last drove it and never knew it.

If you don't like the price, then figure out how to do it yourself to save you money at the cost of time. He has to take the axles off halfway just to do the clutch, so he is probably double billing you for time... but if parts are included then its probably a wash (i.e fair) for 800 for labor and parts on a new clutch, flywheel, main seal and axels.

But as I said before do it yourself if you don't like the price.

Edit: Your always free to get a second opinion aswell.

 

[96gstdsm]

I have had it sitting for about 2 months now i guess. I only drove it for 5 days before i think the tob went to getting that all replaced right now. But if i never noticed anything seeming wrong with the axles, most likely they would be fine right? Is there any reason to assume they are bad? I talked to someone who has owned a few elcipse's and he said that it is highly unlikely that there would be anything wrong with them.

About doing it myself i wish i could but i just dont have the time right now and i need the car up and running but next week, so i want to just get it done professionaly.

 

[96gstdsm]

Also is it a very hard job to replace the axles? It can be done fine with the transmission on still also right? This guy i think definately wants to just charge more for nothing. There is nothing relaterd between the clutch and axles that would cause eachother to break together right? Cause what are the odds of it wokring fine and me parking it and the axles being bad out of no where?

 

[keeler]

Also is it a very hard job to replace the axles? It can be done fine with the transmission on still also right? This guy i think definately wants to just charge more for nothing. There is nothing relaterd between the clutch and axles that would cause eachother to break together right? Cause what are the odds of it wokring fine and me parking it and the axles being bad out of no where?

If it sat, it's possible they're bad. If it drove perfect I'd just have the boots checked. He has to take part of the axles off to get to the tranny is why he probably figured he'd do the axles. I wouldn't worry so much.

 

[96gstdsm]

If it sat, it's possible they're bad. If it drove perfect I'd just have the boots checked. He has to take part of the axles off to get to the tranny is why he probably figured he'd do the axles. I wouldn't worry so much.

It did sit for a little while, but the car turned and everything perfect untill i stopped driving it. 400 seems like alot to replace them right? I can buy them for very cheap and then the install shouldn;t be very bad especially since they are already taking one end off to do the clutch job right? What are the odds that it would go bad at the same time as the clutch? He never checked anything out he seemed to just assume that they would be bad since my car has alot of miles. I need to worry since i dont have the money for the clutch replacement as well as the axles. Already paying like 485 total for the clutch plus i bought the parts for like 600. and another 400 for the axles seems rediculous.

 

[silvah_gsx]

Then find an honest mechanic...a good one checks that while he's under the car, then calls you if there's a problem and has you check it out yourself. Or should, at least.

 

[96gstdsm]

I told him to give me a call about everything and not to do anything. Just seems shady for him to assume that there is something wrong with it before checking anything. Hopefully he wont say it is messed up, but every other word he says is, "probably have to replace the axles" it seems like.
What would it look like if they were bad? Anything obvious to check for? If the boots are fine is it most likely fine especially since there were no problems what so ever before i stopped driving it?

 

[jordanrw]

Then find an honest mechanic...a good one checks that while he's under the car, then calls you if there's a problem and has you check it out yourself. Or should, at least.

amen

 

[Dsmx17]

Your mechanic could be refferring to the axels being seized in the hubs, which you would not notice by driving, and IS common in (2g specifically) dsms, meaning they should be replaced, however, he could get around it by dropping the front suspension to remove the axels if need be.

 

[96gstdsm]

Your mechnic could be refferring to the axels being seized in the hubs, which you would not notice by driving, and IS common in (2g specifically) dsms, meaning they should be replaced, however, he could get around it by dropping the front suspension to remove the axels if need be.

Ok i think that might be what he is referring to. Would they need to be placed then? or could i keep driving it like that for a while with no problems? Is that just a problem cause it is hard to get them off to take the tranny out or cause they are no good? I only have money for a clutch replacement right now that is why i am so worried he is going to want to charge me for somehting else.

 

[Dsmx17]

Ok i think that might be what he is referring to. Would they need to be placed then? or could i keep driving it like that for a while with no problems? Is that just a problem cause it is hard to get them off to take the tranny out or cause they are no good? I only have money for a clutch replacement right now that is why i am so worried he is going to want to charge me for somehting else.

they dont need to be replaced, he just dosent want to take the extra time to drop the suspension, both of mine were seized on my 98 when I did a 6 bolt swap this summer, both are still seized and will stay that way until one breaks.

 

[96gstdsm]

they dont need to be replaced, he just dosent want to take the extra time to drop the suspension, both of mine were seized on my 98 when I did a 6 bolt swap this summer, both are still seized and will stay that way until one breaks.

When replacing the clutch the axles has to be disconnected from the hub and the transmission? Thought it would be just the transmission. If he was going to replace the axle how would he do that if it was seized in the hub and unable to take out? How could he replace it but not remove it to do the clutch job?

 

[Splitpi]

When replacing the clutch the axles has to be disconnected from the hub and the transmission? Thought it would be just the transmission. If he was going to replace the axle how would he do that if it was seized in the hub and unable to take out? How could he replace it but not remove it to do the clutch job?

you pay him to replace the clutch. That means it is his job to figure out how to get around that problem of axles seized to the hub. And it is his right to refuse to work on it as well. But, best of luck. I think your problems have been answered, it is up to you and your mechanic on how to procede.

 

[96gstdsm]

you pay him to replace the clutch. That means it is his job to figure out how to get around that problem of axles seized to the hub. And it is his right to refuse to work on it as well. But, best of luck. I think your problems have been answered, it is up to you and your mechanic on how to procede.

Ok the part i dont understand is, he said he would charge me to replace it if it is seized in the hub. What i am wondering is, how is he going to remove it to replace it, when he can't remove it to change the clutch? Also do both ends of the axle need to be removed or just the end attached to the tranny?
One more thing, if he were to take the front suspension off that would eliminate the need to remove just the axle correct? but then would need to have re- allignment.

 

[Strm Trpr]

I'll tell you right now, if those axles and hubs have never ever been taken apart
then they have never had the opportunity to get some good grease in the past years,
and they are siezed together, guaranteed .

He's just warning you about the possibility that your 142k mile DSM that lives in snowy
New York may have horribly rusted axle to hub splines, and they have to be replaced.

I could tell you within 5 minutes of removing both of your front wheels if your axles were siezed or not.

Just simply ask him to check if the axles are seized before proceeding with the clutch job.
If they are infact siezed, then time to get a credit card involved and get this job done
because you don't have time to fugg around, and you need your car...

 

[Dream On]

When I replaced my axles, they were only about $60 a piece from Autozone. Fairly easy to replace as well. Probably one of the first things I did when I bought my car. Not too long after, I replaced the clutch myself. None of this stuff is that bad if you have tools. As far as the axles being seized, I would almost guarantee they are. I replaced mine at ~126k and they actually came out with some pb blaster. You could also try a torch to heat them up and maybe they'll come out. Best of luck.

 

[96gstdsm]

Ok i gott of the phone with the guy a few minutes ago. He said they are seized to the hubs. He said he could however remove them from he transmission and then swing them away so he could remove the transmission. (thought that is what you were supposed to do anyways) and he said that would be an extra 80 to do that. What would be done otherwise? It has to come out of the tranny toget the tranny out anyways, and moving them away he said takes 2 and a half hours? Said he would give me a break and charge only 80 for that. I have no problem paying that so i can just get it done and get it home but seems like that is false info.

 

[boosted-dsm]

your axles are fine. they are just trying to get more money out of you..

my car has 154k miles and my axles are fine on a 90gsx.. so my car has seen some miles. .

 

[Splitpi]

How did it go? 80 seems like a good compromise, though he is coming out ahead. Its work he had to do anyways... he is just getting a little more cushin on his bottom end. But its not horrible and unless it is a job you want to do yourself.... I say go for it. Just get some sort of guarantee his "moving to side" won't damage the boots and axles.

 

[96gstdsm]

How did it go? 80 seems like a good compromise, though he is coming out ahead. Its work he had to do anyways... he is just getting a little more cushin on his bottom end. But its not horrible and unless it is a job you want to do yourself.... I say go for it. Just get some sort of guarantee his "moving to side" won't damage the boots and axles.

Ok well i am sure now that he was trying to rip me off. Oh well the job is done now. Seems to have a little clutch chatter though. Could that be just cause of the break in period?
Well he went ahead and told me my slave cylinder was bad, so 50 for a new one(probably fine but let that one go) After that he called me back and said he was not able to get any pressure in the peddle. So he said the only option would be to change out the master! So told me another 200 for that. Not having more money for that or anything and also the absurd amount he wanted for that i told him i would just go and get it towed home and do that myself. He appologized and said he hated not finishing a job but there was nothing he could do. So what do you know, i get a call litterally 1 minute later saying all of a sudden the peddle feels much better and he is going to try and drive it. 5 minutes later i get a call again saying how there has been a dsm miracle and the peddle has mysteriously gotten good pressure and the car feels perfect to drive home how it is .

Pretty much confirms me worries of him trying to rip me off. But i do have my car now and it does work and the problem was just the tob rattling like crazy(even though it didn;t look bad or anything) This makes me have no doubt the 80 buck charge was bull!

Sounds like a complete scam correct? Trying to decide if i should flame that place as it is supposed to be a "respectable place" as far as i know.

 

[travislaw]

Not that I doubt the guy was giving you excuses about the clutch slave and master, you do however need to watch it. Every car I have done a clutch job in (well 2 cars) the car needed the Slave and/or Master Cylinders replaced. If they haven't gone out yet, there is a good chance they will soon. They get old and worn and when you put in a new clutch it is forcing a lot of pressure in the fluid system that hasn't been there in a long time. So my advice is save up your money and just expect needing to get it done down the road. There are the exceptions to the rule of course, but most of the time the Slave, Master, or both will give out on you soon after a clutch replacement.

 

[Splitpi]

He may not be bleeding the clutch line properly and assuming it to be the Master and/or Slave. There is a large resevoir between the master and the slave that can accumulate alot of air (also the line is somewhat coiled thus trapping more air). If there is significant air in the line then you won't get any peddle pressure either.

Possible Solutions:
- Bleed the heck out of the line. (took me about 5 different times to fully get it)
- Bleed the line by cracking the nut ontop of the resevoir with peddle depressed (fluid will ooze from the looseing of the nut. Tighten the nut, pump up the clutch, and repeat a few times. Be mindful to keep the clutch fluid resevoir ontop of the master filled at all times.
- Let it sit for a few minutes (30 mins or so) and rebleed.
- Or replace the entire resevoir with a SS Clutch line.

This is assuming that the Master and Slave is still good and that it was just improperly bled.

Also I hoped you did replace the TOB with a new Mitsu one. Its only like $20-$40 for the bearing and you had the Tranny off anyways so it was no extra work. For the chatter, drive the car and break in the clutch. Hopefully once it wears in it will quite down.

Best of luck.

 

[TheClaw]

Do it yourself man. Will take like an hour - two tops - to do both front axles.

Also - since he's replacing the clutch anyway he'll be taking the old axles off. Shouldn't charge ANY more other than the price of the new axles.. He's trying to rip you off.

edit - just read the rest.. Yeah, he was trying to rip you off. Start doing your own work. There's PLENTY of VfAQ's out there - no excuse why you shouldn't tackle these small things yourself. You'll save a LOT of money, gain a LOT of knowledge, and not to mention you'll feel very good about yourself when you're done