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The t-25 finally blew. Is it safe to drive until I can get a replacement?

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gst25401

15+ Year Contributor
80
1
Oct 31, 2005
martinsburg, West Virginia
The t-25 finally blew. Is it safe to drive until I can get a replacement?

Is it ok to drive?
 
I wouldnt try it, you could blow unwanted stuff into the engine and screw that up. I've never personally heard of it or seen but from what I've heard it's possible.
 
why would you drive a car with a blown turbo? thats just asking for trouble... Dont do it. You might send pieces of the turbo through your manifold and #### your whole motor.
 
Thanks guys I just ordered a FP Big28. What do I have to look forward too?
 
Yesterday my turbo took a sh!t on me, so I ordered a fp bigT28. What do I
have to look forward too? Will I feel more power, no other mods right now.
What is going to be a safe psi to run without fuel mods?
 
Priming is pretty easy.
Underhood fuse box, take out the "Engine" fuse and crank her over a couple times. Then check for leaks, most common places being oil feed and return. (at least for me :p)
 
Thanks guys, is the install going to be pretty straight-forward? Will I need new oil lines, and
gaskets also?
 
obviously if anything is broken it is not recommended to drive it.

But for all the people who have said so, can you elaborate on why, and what could go wrong by doing so, etc?

Just in case I get in the same situation
 
Here is a list of parts and part#s that you will need for the turbo.

Exhaust manifold gasket: MD181032 (one)
Exhaust manifold to turbo gasket: MD128901 (one)
Turbo to O2 housing gasket: MD191897 (one)
Oil drain line to turbo gasket: MD198888 (one)
Oil drain line to oil pan gasket: MR258477 (one)
14mm Crush washers: MF660065 (four)
6mm Crush washers: MD050317 (two)
Turbo Bolts: MR187699 (four)

Good luck. If you have any questions abou the install, don't hesitate to ask. I just did this swap a couple of months ago, and it is still fresh in my mind.

I agree with the above posters, you are going to want to stick with stock boost settings for now, and will not notice a huge power difference on thost levels. The main difference is that the turbo spools up later (~3000 rpm) and you will hold boost until redline.
 
Good luck with the install still waiting for FP to call me to go pick mine up. Did you buy a new big28 or did you send them your old t 25 to mod it to the big28 save about $150.00 that way and the price just went down to the big 28 cost 780.00 something check the site out it use to cost 800.00 something :thumb:


ps I sugest getting steel braided feed and return oil lines alot easier and look nice to
 
You dont necessarily have to take off the exhaust manifold to swap turbos, but it can make things a little easier.

If you do end up taking off the exhaust manifold, dont forget to pick up some new studs. When we changed the hotside on my friends EVO8, (an 03) 5 of the nuts were already completely rusted to the studs, so you can only imagine how yours are going to look. Also, use plenty of penetrating lubricant when removing them. It is pretty common for people to "use the force luke" and break them off in the head causing a usually avoidable problem. Take your time, utilize patience, and things will go fine.

Keep boost under 14psi without a the proper fuel support mods and things will be just fine.

You have lots to look forward to once you get the rest of the pieces to fully utilize its potential. Although is lacks the giant top end of the larger turbos of today, its spools like crazy and has put down some damn good numbers in our community.
 
It depends on what part is broken.

If the flapper is broken or loose, it could come off and ruin your o2 sensor and/or cat on the way out your exhast.

If the seals are completely gone, you might be able to lose so much oil to drain your motor and cause a seize.

If the turbine housing is terribly cracked, exhaust gasses can melt some stuff in the engine bay (fan shrouds, wires, etc.).

If a fin or two break off the compressor wheel while it's spinning, they can enter the intercooler and ruin it.

Shall I continue? Just think about it. Anything that can go wrong, will. Sure they're all just possibilities and may never happen, but ask the question: "What if it does happen? Do I really want to risk it?"
 
The most common failure is the seals going bad. Mine started to go bad and actually I was only buring coolant and it was only sometimes and my shaft play was not that bad. But withhin 2 weeks I was buring coolant almost all the time and I just bought a turbo. If I was burning oil i'd probably have not driven it. I was getting a decent amount of blow by into my catch can but nothing too scary. Anything physically cracked or missing like the blades or cracked housing i'd park it. Your just asking for trouble in that case.
 
Defiant said:
Yes, maybe. Or, not. Depending.
.........+
brute said:
It depends on what part is broken.

If the flapper is broken or loose, it could come off and ruin your o2 sensor and/or cat on the way out your exhast.

If the seals are completely gone, you might be able to lose so much oil to drain your motor and cause a seize.

If the turbine housing is terribly cracked, exhaust gasses can melt some stuff in the engine bay (fan shrouds, wires, etc.).

If a fin or two break off the compressor wheel while it's spinning, they can enter the intercooler and ruin it.

Shall I continue? Just think about it. Anything that can go wrong, will. Sure they're all just possibilities and may never happen, but ask the question: "What if it does happen? Do I really want to risk it?"

That right there answers this question perfectly.
Thanks guys.
 
can you elaborate on why, and what could go wrong by doing so

Well.....

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If a fin or two break off the compressor wheel while it's spinning, they can enter the intercooler and ruin it.

See above photograph.

Short answer: If your turbo is going bad, stop driving on it and replace it. Same thing for flat tires. Eventually bad things will happen that will end up costing more money and time to fix.
 
what if someone with a blown turbo just put on a stock n/t manifold; dp, and n/t intake arm while waiting for a new turbo... That shouldnt cause any trouble other than it not being able to bolt up to the exhaust system if it was modified correct.?
Because im sure some ppl dont have the money to get a turbo the momment it takes a nap, and waiting time would be bad especially if the car was a DD...
iM sure on a n/t manifold it should respond basically with nearly as much hp as the n/t 4g63 does, and act like it would've when you werent boosting right?
It shoudlnt throw a cel or anything crazy would it? Maybe just be loud from open dp from it not bolting up if you modded your exhaust
and changed the flanges and what not.
 
I ordered a fpbig28 today. The seals sound like my problem I would lose about a quart in the period of about a week.
 
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