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Newbie Forum: Beginner/newbie/general DSM modification questions. First mods, how to run 10's when you haven't run 12's yet, any tech question that doesn't fit in another tech forum. Probationary Members must limit their tech posts to this forum and sub-forums.

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Old 07-24-2006, 09:50 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #1 (permalink)
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Extended Slave cylinder Clutch Rod????


I am going to have a act2100 clutch on my 2g awd. It's a fully built motor, eagle & ross 8.5:1, gt35 turbo, fp cams, TRE tranny, well you get the idea.
What does this extension rod do and will I need it?


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Old 07-24-2006, 10:03 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #2 (permalink)
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The rod is a hack. It's only purpose is to cover up problems in the system. Usually a worn pivot ball or pedal assembly. You don't need it.
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Old 07-24-2006, 10:18 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #3 (permalink)
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What about if you have to have your flywheel reground? wouldn't that require a longer rod since you have to now push the pressure plate which is further away from the slave cylinder location?


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Old 07-24-2006, 10:25 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jepherz
What about if you have to have your flywheel reground? wouldn't that require a longer rod since you have to now push the pressure plate which is further away from the slave cylinder location?
No because the fork will only go so far before it bottoms out, an extended rod will end up pushing back at the slave cylinder when the fork bottoms out facilitating slave cylinder blow out, this also applies to welding another nut for further adjustments on the master. Both are nothing but bandages that will cause other problems down the road, instead of locating and fixing the hidden cause.


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Old 07-24-2006, 11:59 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #5 (permalink)
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well that's good to know. Thanks

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Old 09-19-2006, 11:43 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #6 (permalink)
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does it hurt to put in an extension rod anyways? i just did it for extra insurens for the clutch. it seems to shift a little easier now.
ps. idk what clutch is in my car but i do know thats a heavier duty one. (not stock)

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Old 09-19-2006, 04:42 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #7 (permalink)
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The best thing for for you is to buy a Reinforced Clutch Release Fork and Clutch Release Fork Pivot Ball. Both of these are from machv and can be found here http://www.machv.com/rewoclpa.html (they recommend that you shim up the pivot ball for aftermarket clutches) Also if you are getting a bigger clutch, buy a new clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder (nopi.com is one place for some good ones). Belive me, my clutch went out EARLY because had never changed these parts= me -$300

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Old 09-19-2006, 10:14 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #8 (permalink)
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I know this is off topic, but I am curious on why you choose the 2100 over the 2600. It seems like with the power you will be making, it would be much better suited for you. I have one in my car and I don't think the extra leg effort is bad at all. Plus the clutch is not grabby and is plenty fine in stop and go traffic. If you haven't already bought the 2100, I would definately reconsider the 2600.
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Old 09-20-2006, 06:44 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #9 (permalink)
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It has been said that the 2600 can cause the 7bolt to crankwalk sooner, and some people may not like a stiff clutch for everday driving.

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Old 09-20-2006, 08:08 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LaserRSTAWD
The best thing for for you is to buy a Reinforced Clutch Release Fork and Clutch Release Fork Pivot Ball. Both of these are from machv and can be found here http://www.machv.com/rewoclpa.html (they recommend that you shim up the pivot ball for aftermarket clutches) Also if you are getting a bigger clutch, buy a new clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder (nopi.com is one place for some good ones). Belive me, my clutch went out EARLY because had never changed these parts= me -$300

Thanks for your response but it doesnt help. my car isnt a 1g. i have a 2g, but my question is... does it hurt anything to have the extension rod installed? i put is in two days ago and if it doent hurt anything in time i dont want to have to take it out again. Basically is it safe to have the rod intalled sort term, long term?? thanks

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Old 09-20-2006, 08:22 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #11 (permalink)
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I second the "get a different clucth" motion. That turbo is way too huge for the capacity of an ACT 2100. Yes it might work for city driving but I'd be willing to bet your first WOT run will make that poor thing slip. Those turbos flow some something ridiculous, 65lbs/min or the like.
I'm not trying to push your buttons or anything, but why put so much cash into such a nice build up (8.5 ross/eagles, fp cams, GT35 turbo and TRE tranny) and then install a completely mismatched component that will clearly be the weak link?
When was the last time you saw a ~600hp car running a 2100 clutch?

But to answer your last question, no an extended slave cylinder push rod should not harm anything. However, it is a bandaid/patch like modification that is designed to cover up an existing problem in your hydraulic/clutch system.
If everything is set up properly (new or rebuilt fork, pivot ball, master and slave cylinders, properly bled hydraulics etc) you should not need an extended slave cylinder push rod.
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Old 09-20-2006, 08:47 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #12 (permalink)
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Crankwalk is way over rated. And know one has determined an exact cause, so who knows if a 2600 will help make a car walk. His setup doesn't sound like a DD to me. But everyone is entitled to their opinion. Me personally, I have an ACT 2600 and don't find it to be all that stiff. Definately stiffer than stock, but very driveable. Plus when your building a car everything has it's tradeoff. Bigger turbo=more lag, front mount=slower spool, better clutch=stiffer pedal.
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Old 09-20-2006, 09:32 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjk9671
Thanks for your response but it doesnt help. my car isnt a 1g. i have a 2g, but my question is... does it hurt anything to have the extension rod installed? i put is in two days ago and if it doent hurt anything in time i dont want to have to take it out again. Basically is it safe to have the rod intalled sort term, long term?? thanks
Acctually both of these parts will work for a 1G or 2G turbo

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Old 09-20-2006, 09:51 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjk9671
Thanks for your response but it doesnt help. my car isnt a 1g. i have a 2g, but my question is... does it hurt anything to have the extension rod installed? i put is in two days ago and if it doent hurt anything in time i dont want to have to take it out again. Basically is it safe to have the rod intalled sort term, long term?? thanks
Depends on what "short term" means. Yes it is hurting things. Yes you are causing premature wear on other parts. Can you drive it as is to work today? Yes. Should it still be on the car next September? No.

Just get it taken care of sooner rather than later and you will be fine.

Remember that anything in the clutch system that hasn't been replaced in awhile (or ever) will be VERY unhappy to be getting the extra stress (master cylinder, slave, fork, TOB, whatever).


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Old 09-20-2006, 10:14 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by weith1111
Depends on what "short term" means. Yes it is hurting things. Yes you are causing premature wear on other parts. Can you drive it as is to work today? Yes. Should it still be on the car next September? No.

Just get it taken care of sooner rather than later and you will be fine.

Remember that anything in the clutch system that hasn't been replaced in awhile (or ever) will be VERY unhappy to be getting the extra stress (master cylinder, slave, fork, TOB, whatever).
so you probably shouldnt get it if its a DD then?

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Old 09-20-2006, 01:04 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #16 (permalink)
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ok thanks. im taking it out now! i just got in my car and went to go in revers and a chatering noise came from the tranny area. I hope the tranny isnt wasted but if it is, i guess its back to the slow as Avenger

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Old 09-20-2006, 01:25 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denniegst
so you probably shouldnt get it if its a DD then?


You shouldn't get one for your DD, your track car, your grocery getter, your Vespa, your Schwinn, your pet monkey, your anything.

There's the half ass jb weld, zip ties, duct tape, clutch extension rod types of fixes, and then there is the right way.


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Old 09-20-2006, 10:11 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #18 (permalink)
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I'm amused that no one really cares theres gonna be a 2100 clutch trying to grasp a hold of a GT35.
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Old 09-21-2006, 07:29 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PieEyedPiper
I'm amused that no one really cares theres gonna be a 2100 clutch trying to grasp a hold of a GT35.
I hate to tell you, but the 2600 with a street disc isn't rated to handle that turbo either. He should be looking at a puck instead of a disc probably, and maybe something even heavier duty than a 2600.

Then again, I don't get the feeling someone asking about the extension rod is going to be squeezing 500-600hp out of this thing. No offense, but you should know what you are doing with a setup like this. Unless you are going to pay someone else to tune it...


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Old 04-04-2009, 08:47 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #20 (permalink)
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2G-specific

clutch wtf


bought an f1 racing stage 2 clutch and fadanza flywheel for my 96 tsi awd talon. previously before this got a stock slave cylinder put in. after the clutch was installed i drove the car about 50 miles not ripping on it at all. lettin it break in. was just drivin straight down the road, not turning at all, pulled it out of fifth and the clutch laid on the floor. picked it back up pushed it in and it had pressure. its kept doing that, now im gettin the master cylinder replaced. any ideas on the problem?
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