Cheap BS kit, using OEM front plug, should I also get OEM stub?

[90gst_sean]

Sense I already have the cheap-o removal kit; I already have everything I need. But after searching around I've noticed people tend to crack the front case when installing the cheap hard front plug. I checked and the OEM plug is only $10. I think I'm going to use it instead. The cheap kit was, well cheap, and at the time I was ordering a bunch of other stuff and though I'd throw in the kit in case I decided to go ahead with the balance shaft removal.

My question, yes there is a question, I'm not just bothering you with the same old story I promise. Keeping in mind that I already have a cheap stub, would it be worth the $15 more to pick up the OEM stub while at the dealer ship? I've read that the OEM stub has the oil groove in it.

Is the lack of a oil grooved stub in the cheap balance shaft removal kick something worth worrying about? What kind of name is Balanceshaft for a hourse anyway?

 

[Auto RS T]

You do not want oil coming out the front balance shaft seal. If the oem plug has a hole in it i would not recommend it. If there is a hole there with every rotation of the crank oil with splash out of the hole and into the timing cover! You may not notice this for a while either! I would use the cheap plug, after you install it rtv around the ring so you know the plug isn't coiming back out. If you do not feel safe with the cheap plug I believe it is just a small coolant freeze plug. Just measure the hole and get one according to the size you came up with, or ask someone who may know the dimensions of the plug.

 

[steve]

Based on hearing people having the pump fail with the non-OEM stub shaft I use the one from the 1.6L.

Steve

 

[90gst_sean]

Based on hearing people having the pump fail with the non-OEM stub shaft I use the one from the 1.6L.

Steve

So they have been a problem. Any idea why? You think the cheap ones weren't balanced as well as the OEM, causing the oil pump to vibrate maybe??? It seems that would cause more problems than the lack of the oil groove.?.?

 

[steve]

What I heard was they fail because they don't have the oil groove. That shaft runs at twice crank speed.

Steve

 

[2GRS-T]

The reason the shaft has been a problem is because the cheap ones do not have a grove, thus blocking off a crucial oil port in that area.
The groove is there for a reason, it helps flow oil to the other side, to lubricate the pump and the shaft. It IS worth the 15 bucks to get the OEM shaft.

 

[90gst_sean]

Already ordered and payed for!

 

[blackrosenova40]

Does slowboys BS eliminator kit have that groove on it?

 

[90gst_sean]

SlowBoy .... YES



Cheap-O .... NO

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[90gst_sean]

I happen to have that cheap-O kit and I'm going to replace the stub and small plug with OEM(more like the Slowboy kit). What about the large cup shaped bearing block off piece in th cheap kit. Its not like all the other kits listed.

What bearing do I replace with that cupped bearing exactly?

Sean

 

[steve]

I'll guess that the cupped one is for the front BS front bearing so that the closes off the block.
What does it say on the instruction sheet?

Steve

 

[90gst_sean]

Those instructions are garbage. It doesn't even list a cupped bearing; if it wasn't for the pic I would've thought it wasn't even the right part.

My blocks at the machine shop for the week. I took it all down to them to look over. I'll see was they come up with and get back to ya.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

The SBR kit is a great kit. Uses a nice grooved stub shaft and comes with all the bearings you need. The cupped one is for the case. You press it in and put some JB Weld around the seal part to ensure it doesn't leak. The other two bearings go in the motor. You really only need to install the one that goes in the front to block off the one oil passage that supposedly gives you better oil pressure. Some cars it does, some it doesn't. I have always used SBR's kit and never had a problem.

 

[steve]

Adam, thanks for your input on the SBR kit but what's being asked about is the freeze plug in the cheap PCI kit. I'm pretty sure they use that to block off the oil feed and seal up the block rather than the normal front bearing for the upper balance shaft. You'll notice that there is a smaller plug in that kit for the front case and a single bearing.

Steve

 

[blkwidow]

Im having the same problem right now. It is leaking like crazy. I've tried the JB weld trick but it didn't work. I must have redone it about 5 times now. Should I just purchase the slowboy racing bs eliminator kit just for the right plug? Sorry to hijack the thread. I just didn't want to make a new one on the same topic.

 

[90gst_sean]

http://vfaq.com/mods/balance-shafts.html

You can just get the OEM rubber case plug at your Mitsu dealer for under $10.


So Steve, you think its meant to replace this bearing here in the pic? Maybe it helps keep oil from ever reaching the front case plug. If thats where it goes, what direction would you install it? If the bottom of the cup is facing out, I don't want it to get it the way of the case. If its facing it... you know what, it doesn't make much of a difference ether way. If oil leaks past; through between the bearing and the block, its going to leak weather its cupped in or out. The cup may help with oil loose in the engine though.?.?

What would you recommend?

Should I just turn the old ones if save able?

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[95blackGsTurbo]

Adam, thanks for your input on the SBR kit but what's being asked about is the freeze plug in the cheap PCI kit. I'm pretty sure they use that to block off the oil feed and seal up the block rather than the normal front bearing for the upper balance shaft. You'll notice that there is a smaller plug in that kit for the front case and a single bearing.

Steve

Now I get the question...You are right Steve. The small one goes in the cover and the larger one goes in the block where you would normally put the SBR front bearing to help with oil pressure.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

Im having the same problem right now. It is leaking like crazy. I've tried the JB weld trick but it didn't work. I must have redone it about 5 times now. Should I just purchase the slowboy racing bs eliminator kit just for the right plug? Sorry to hijack the thread. I just didn't want to make a new one on the same topic.

Also make sure you didn't crack the cover. I have seen way to many people hammer these in and it cracks around where it if supposed to seal. If you have it sealed with JB Weld then it shouldn't leak. Sounds like you might have cracked the cover.

 

[steve]

What would you recommend?

Should I just turn the old ones if save able?

I believe the plugs are normally installed with a drift and the outer edge being larger than the the "cupped" edge so that it's compressed when you drive it in. That would put the closed end in.

Steve

 

[90gst_sean]

Hey Steve. To give you a idea how worthless the instructions with this kit are, lets take a closer look at the picture. (I don't have my copy handy)

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If you read the last paragraph you'll see "install the soft plug from our kit...", but there is no soft plug in this kit. In the nice kits, using OEM parts there is a soft plug; but thats beside the point.
Its fairly obvious they must be referring to the small freeze plug that is in NO way softer than any other piece in this kit. Directions should be descriptive and precise. I'd have to say, these directions are more confusing than helpfully. Its a good thing at the top of the directions they state, to be installed by a professional.
If you read toward the middle using your imagination a little. you'l see something like: The small bushing from our kit is to be installed first where the old bearing was removed from. Then it looks to tell you to install the last bearing plug. Its hard to read, but I know it was unclear as to weather or not they are surely talking about the cupped bearing replacement. No worrys, I'll getter done.

Thanks again Steve.