Ok guys need help LETS SEE if you guys know your STUFF

TheRealist · 05-09-2006, 03:06 PM

Ok guys me and my dad are realy fustrated on getting my car started, well here's the proplem, we got my head rebuilt and put everything back on and connected everything.

Now the proplem is getting it to idle right, and engine moves when we start it. we bin at this for 3 weeks and still cant get it to run right.

Whats the idle soppose to be set at?? 750k? 750k below the 1rpm??

Could it be that my baterie is low?? we started it with jumper cables

Here are some videos

Start up and dies out:

<--also look at engine move on start up why does it do that?

Start UP:

Before it would idle fine without dying out at 1500 but thats way to high

Cmon guys lets see if yah can help me out here

reeper · 05-09-2006, 03:17 PM

Did you do anything else while the head was off, I.E. cam's?
You said it was fine when it was set at 1500. You could start there and work your way down to where it doesnt do it. Also what happines if you start your car and give it gas, does it still die?

Is you maf pluged in, mine did the same thing when it wasnt pluged in.

1993eclipseGS · 05-09-2006, 03:18 PM

Stock idle is 750rpms.

All of your lights are on in the dash, Why?

You're sure you checked and double checked these:

Timing
fuel and ignition system..
MAFS
ECU
Thermostat
ALL connections are plugged back in under the hood

Usually if your engine is vibrating, It is worn/broken motors mounts.
Excessive engine vibration is a telltale sign that the balance shafts (also known as silent shafts) are out of alignment. These shafts are designed to counterbalance the engine to keep it from shaking during normal operation.

It is also possible that the engine will shake immediately after a timing belt change. This is indicative of a simple misalignment of the balance shafts in the engine. Running the car that way is not damaging, but is obviously undesireable. Return the car to the shop in question to have the timing re-done - driving it there is usually ok, although towing is great

TheRealist · 05-09-2006, 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1993eclipseGS

Stock idle is 750rpms.

All of your lights are on in the dash, Why?

You're sure you checked and double checked these:

Timing
fuel and ignition system..
MAFS
ECU
Thermostat
ALL connections are plugged back in under the hood

Usually if your engine is vibrating, It is worn/broken motors mounts.
Excessive engine vibration is a telltale sign that the balance shafts (also known as silent shafts) are out of alignment. These shafts are designed to counterbalance the engine to keep it from shaking during normal operation.

It is also possible that the engine will shake immediately after a timing belt change. This is indicative of a simple misalignment of the balance shafts in the engine. Running the car that way is not damaging, but is obviously undesireable. Return the car to the shop in question to have the timing re-done - driving it there is usually ok, although towing is great

The balance shaft has to be alligned? thats that little belt correct?? we didnt even touch that one we just left it on but we did align everything thats soppose to be alligned on the bottom , but we did change the timeing belt.... everything is plugged in also light sin dash turn off in 5, 7 seconds

TheRealist · 05-09-2006, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reeper

Did you do anything else while the head was off, I.E. cam's?
You said it was fine when it was set at 1500. You could start there and work your way down to where it doesnt do it. Also what happines if you start your car and give it gas, does it still die?

Is you maf pluged in, mine did the same thing when it wasnt pluged in.

my dad gives it gas from the ingine bay area and it stays on and idles at 1500, he lowered it to about 1000 and i turn it on then emediatly turns off like the video i showed you

TheRealist · 05-09-2006, 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reeper

Did you do anything else while the head was off, I.E. cam's?
You said it was fine when it was set at 1500. You could start there and work your way down to where it doesnt do it. Also what happines if you start your car and give it gas, does it still die?

Is you maf pluged in, mine did the same thing when it wasnt pluged in.

we put everything back on stock cam everything was stock we didnt change anything

v2ner · 05-09-2006, 03:35 PM

Are you sure all sensors are in right? TPS? Does this only happen when the engine is warm or does it also happen when it's cold? 6-bolt or 7-bolt motor? Timing belt correct?

erebusknight · 05-09-2006, 03:45 PM

So the car will always start and stay on for a short moment? then it dies? What about the battery? have you actually been driving it around at all? whats the longest time it ran? was it only running above 1000rpm?

TheRealist · 05-09-2006, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by erebusknight

So the car will always start and stay on for a short moment? then it dies? What about the battery? have you actually been driving it around at all? whats the longest time it ran? was it only running above 1000rpm?

no it would stay on as long as i wanted it to when it was idleing at 1200-1500 range, when my dad lowered the idle to like 1000 id start it and then emediatly turn off as it shows in the second link

TheRealist · 05-09-2006, 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by v2ner

Are you sure all sensors are in right? TPS? Does this only happen when the engine is warm or does it also happen when it's cold? 6-bolt or 7-bolt motor? Timing belt correct?

Yea timieng is right, or else it woudlnt start, and it's a 7bolt motor i belive whatever came stock in a 97 GST

Also my car hasnt bin turn on in like 6, 7 months so the batery drianed thats why were using Jumper Cables

reeper · 05-09-2006, 04:01 PM

Gas going bad, clogged fuel pump, fuel pressure low...

GVR4592 · 05-09-2006, 04:02 PM

Make sure all of the sensors are plugged in and I would take the timing cover off and verify that the timing marks are still lined up.

erebusknight · 05-09-2006, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GVR4592

Make sure all of the sensors are plugged in and I would take the timing cover off and verify that the timing marks are still lined up.

I agree seeing that the head was taken care of recently, but put the battery on a 2 amp charge over night. Make sure your battery has electrolyte left in it. I left the one in my 71 Beetle all winter and the water froze and ruined the plates (thank god for warranty on batteries)

Sivad87 · 05-09-2006, 04:15 PM

make sure you check for vacume leaks. that can cause funky idle and cause it to die.

also run a compression test on it just to make sure the headgasket seated and all that jazz. ive had it happen before where the headasket didnt seat and it would die at idle and stop signs but would run if i held the gas down.

and you should check the ISC and TPS. and did you just adjust the BISS screw or did you tell the computer to stop idle controle. (jumper on firewall). otherwise the ISC could be out of it range of operation and the computer can compensate for the idle correctly.

SinaiTSi · 05-09-2006, 04:31 PM

Ok, I've said this like 20 times before in other threads when people have the similar problems, but is your pvc valve hose plugged in? I did a head rebuild just like you did, had everything hooked up and ready to go, fired right up, and then kept on dying. I realized that the pvc valve hose wasn't plugged in, plugged it in, fired right up and idled fine. Sometimes it's the simplest things that make the biggest difference.

TheRealist · 05-09-2006, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SinaiTSi

Ok, I've said this like 20 times before in other threads when people have the similar problems, but is your pvc valve hose plugged in? I did a head rebuild just like you did, had everything hooked up and ready to go, fired right up, and then kept on dying. I realized that the pvc valve hose wasn't plugged in, plugged it in, fired right up and idled fine. Sometimes it's the simplest things that make the biggest difference.

what s the PVC Valve and wer eis it located at?

Sivad87 · 05-09-2006, 05:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheRealist

what s the PVC Valve and wer eis it located at?

back left of valve cover. and that would be PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) not pvc (poly vinly chloride) which is irrigation pipes

SinaiTSi · 05-09-2006, 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sivad87

back left of valve cover. and that would be PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) not pvc (poly vinly chloride) which is irrigation pipes

That did sound a bit strange to me, I bought some pvc recently and it was on my mind. haha, thanks for the correction. Realist, was that the problem or are you still searching?

nightracer91 · 05-09-2006, 07:06 PM

You said you hadn't ran it in 6,7 months. Did you drain the gas and start fresh? My neighbors Chevy pickup sat 5 months, tried starting it and it wouldn't stay running. Found out moisture built up in the gas tank and contaminated the fuel.

mopardwh · 05-09-2006, 07:26 PM

Like other suggestions from above, you have several things you need to check. All vacuum lines, old fuel, fuel pressure, and of course timing. From sitting, you could have developed new problems. Go through the troubleshooting guide in your manual.

By the way, some of you mentioned the battery. It has nothing to do with it. The battery just starts the car, then runs off of the alternator.

SinaiTSi · 05-09-2006, 07:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mopardwh

By the way, some of you mentioned the battery. It has nothing to do with it. The battery just starts the car, then runs off of the alternator.

Contrary to popular belief, the battery doesn't actually start the car, happy thoughts do. The battery is just there for cosmetic reasons.

antlip · 05-09-2006, 08:15 PM

I noticed your oil gauge didn't even budge, I doubt that is your problem but just throwing that one in the mix.

If you have a strong battery or using jumper cables to start the car, then yes it will turn over and start. Now if your alternator is going bad, or bad then your car w