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2g bov reversing [merged 1-8] backward

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MC-97-GSX

20+ Year Contributor
37
0
Jul 18, 2002
I was recently messing around with my 97-gsx, and i flipped the bov around, the end that the dump tube is normally mounted on, i put to the upper I/C piping, and the other end to the dump tube. As a result, the BOV now flutters isntead of the squeek, and it seems to be holding all the boost (14psi) that my turbo is putting out, it sure seems like it too, and it sounds sweet, if only it was a little louder... try it!
 
What you actually did, was convert your CBV into a pull design, as opposed to a push design. It works like an HKS SSQv now. Only not near as efficient. The fluttering you are hearing is compressorsurge. If you are only hearing it at low boost(under8psi) its not that big a deal. If you are hearing that same noise above 10psi, thats not good. That valve was not meant to run in that direction. Do yourself a favor and get another valve and UICP.
 
A 3000gt VR4 valve would look stock and not have the same problem, or get a 1g BOV with the $10 adapter from RRE and your set.
 
Yeah, i dont hear fluttering when i boost full, i just hear the thing release, im actually waiting for a 1g bov with adapter in the mail
 
I understand the 2g bov leaks but has anyone found out why? The reason I am asking is that there are articles about crushing the 1g but has anyone looked at fixing the 2g? Is it something that can be fixed? Be cheaper then buying a new uic and 1gbov.

Just curious.

Michael (hollifm) :|
 
interesting point, i had just assumed it wasnt an option for good reason.

I'm pretty sure my assumption is correct too. I dont know what about it is so faulty and cant be fixed but im fairly certain that the 2g bov is "irrepairable"
 
I agree but alot of people here make the lowest cost DIY projects I have ever seen and I am suprised no one has looked at this.

Thanks,

Michael
 
1g bov and adapter IS the cheepest fix -

If your intentions are low enough to want to keep the stoc bov and uicp
then you prob dont need to worry about it leaking
 
I dont have a issue with the replacement uicp and the 1g bov. I am getting those. Just a curious question since there is alot of info on the 1g but nothing but "replace it" on the 2g.
 
Perhaps that the fact that no one's "fixed" the 2G BOV in a decade might be a clue that it can't be.

I've heard of plugging it in backward, but I don't know of it actually helping.

Just go with the 1G and leave it at that. The car will blow up before you have anything else to worry about.
 
dave99gst said:
1g is metal and there for workable. --- you can Crush metal


.... if you want you can try that on a stock 2g :)


YEA we will do that.

Actually wondering if the leaking could be fixed and the pressure could be improved. I think when I get my 1g I will try to cut my 2g open and see what gives.

If anyone has I am interested in the internals and what is the weakest link.

Thanks,
 
Thinking of doing a hole cut in the top of the 2g around the dimple on the top. I figure its where the spring seats.

If so then it would be just putting a new spring in there or just stretching the current spring out to get more length. Then put a cap on the top the seal it up. Might be able to make it adjustable by using a screw cap that would go down farther as needed.

As I have only the original 2g that is IN my car I will have to wait until either I get a new gov or someone donates one for the cause.

If anyone has one that they don't use anymore and wants to see let me know.

Thanks,

Michael
 
How do you REVERSE a 2gen BOV? do you just take the intake side and flip it aroun :dsm: d???
 
and what exactly would this accomplish for you besides compressor surge? The 2g BOV is vaccuum actuated, so when there is a vaccuum in the intake manifold (once you get off the throttle) it travels through the line leading to the top part of the BOV and pulls open the valve in the BOV, releasing the intake charge pressure. If you turn it around, it will stay shut effectively fixing the inherent leaking problem in the 2g BOV, but rendering a working BOV absolutely function-less...

In short, it will do nothing but cause compressor surge for you.
 
some one told me to do it untill i got my BOV in,
i did it and had my MBC turned all the way down and ,
i ran 16 psi in first then 2,3,4,5 would spike to like 25 but i would get off of it i didnt know if i would end up breaking somthing, it changes the sound of the bov to
1st how do i get it not to spike out to 25 and will this end up hurting my motor or anything??
:dsm:
 
JDR7919 said:
will this end up hurting my motor or anything??
:dsm:

It will end up killing your turbo, which generally is a bad thing if thats not the result you're going for. If the 25 psi doesnt kill the thing, then the surge will. Put it back on the way it was designed to be used and wait till you can get something better.
 
blackGSX2g said:
and what exactly would this accomplish for you besides compressor surge? The 2g BOV is vaccuum actuated, so when there is a vaccuum in the intake manifold (once you get off the throttle) it travels through the line leading to the top part of the BOV and pulls open the valve in the BOV, releasing the intake charge pressure. If you turn it around, it will stay shut effectively fixing the inherent leaking problem in the 2g BOV, but rendering a working BOV absolutely function-less...

In short, it will do nothing but cause compressor surge for you.


it still opens just not as fast
 
okay
well i switched it back, i figured it couldnt be to good for it,
Whats the most psi i can run after i get my 1gen bov ? with out hurting anything?
and what is boost "SPIKE" ???
 
if you want the valve to hold a little more boost until you get a real BOV, pull the valve off, look at the bottom of it and you'll see a hollow metal shaft (the valve seat is connected to it- it's the only metal visible in the whole thing).

plug that with something. it'll keep the lower diaphragm port from seeing boost. it'll open slower, but it'll hold more boost. it's also not very good for your turbo.
 
polarmoment said:
if you want the valve to hold a little more boost until you get a real BOV, pull the valve off, look at the bottom of it and you'll see a hollow metal shaft (the valve seat is connected to it- it's the only metal visible in the whole thing).

plug that with something. it'll keep the lower diaphragm port from seeing boost. it'll open slower, but it'll hold more boost. it's also not very good for your turbo.

you don't want to plug that or it wont' want to open right, it will flutter and most likely get compressor surge more than anything
 
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