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05-25-2004, 01:31 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Scottsdale, Arizona
Region: Southwest
Registered: Nov 2002
Posts: 173
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Rod Bearing
Does anyone know how hard it is to replace a rod bearing, or know a link to some instructions? I am 99% sure I have spun one. If I did and drove it less than 1/4 mile like that, and kept the rpm's low what is the chance that I did not damage the crank? Thanks for any advice and knowledge.
JB
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-JB
95 GSX
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05-25-2004, 02:34 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
Registered: May 2004
Posts: 40
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im gonna say you need to have the crank turned, i know that not what you want to hear but this is a good time for a full rebuild.
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05-25-2004, 02:46 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Summerville, South Carolina
Region: Southeast
Registered: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,128
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You jerk the Downpipe, Crossmemeber, Transfer case & Oil Pan - yes by the time you camp out under that sumbitch that long you'll wish you'd jerked the whole motor & did a full rebuild - BUT then you'd wish you had a 6 Bolt - so hell - Throw 4 sets of rod bearings in it & get a 6 Bolt ready w/no balance Shafts...
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05-25-2004, 06:59 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Scottsdale, Arizona
Region: Southwest
Registered: Nov 2002
Posts: 173
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I am just wanting to fix it for now, (but still reliable) but I plan on finding a 6 bolt to start building now, but money is low so can't do one yet.
Thanks JB
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-JB
95 GSX
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05-25-2004, 07:03 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Scottsdale, Arizona
Region: Southwest
Registered: Nov 2002
Posts: 173
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Also, how can I tell if the crank is too damaged to put it back together with new bearings.
JB
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-JB
95 GSX
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05-25-2004, 07:58 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Registered: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,207
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Take it to a reputable shop and have someone inspect it! 
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05-25-2004, 10:20 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Silverdale, Washington
Region: Pacific Northwest
Registered: Dec 2003
Posts: 779
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by BUCK
You jerk the Downpipe, Crossmemeber, Transfer case & Oil Pan - yes by the time you camp out under that sumbitch that long you'll wish you'd jerked the whole motor & did a full rebuild - BUT then you'd wish you had a 6 Bolt - so hell - Throw 4 sets of rod bearings in it & get a 6 Bolt ready w/no balance Shafts...
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I just did the same thing. You don't need to take the crossmember off to take the oil pan off. Drain the oil completely (for almost a day). Unbolt the transfer case. It should be held on by 5 bolts-3 long ones and 2 short ones. The oil pan is going to be a PITA to take off but if you unbolt your cv joint, you can just muscle the axle to the side about 1/2 inch and drop the oil pan. Also while your oil pan is off, dig around and see if you find any chunks of metal. I found some in mine (what was left of the rod bearing). Once the pan is off, there's a flat piece of metal that's bolted onto beneath the crank. It's easy enough to take off. Once that's removed, you can try and see if your connecting rods wiggle. If any of them are loose, take the cap off. You may have to rotate the crank for this. Once you take the cap off, you can see if your bearing is still there (or not) and you can check the condition of the crank. Mine was all scored and scratched up from not having the bearing in there. Hope that helps. 
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05-25-2004, 10:28 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Savannah, Georgia
Registered: Oct 2002
Posts: 570
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Just yank the motor and do everything right. Take your time with it, it's not something you want to go half-assing.
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