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?????? spooling problems

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slow91

10+ Year Contributor
111
1
Mar 10, 2010
Ironton, Ohio
i just got my car tuned with the dsmlink v2, i have a 16g forced performance 16g and it spools to like 10 lbs for like 2 secs then spikes to 20 and my afr readings are 10.0 when it does it, just wondering is it in the tune or what?? i wasnt there while it was being tuned due to being outta town, any suggestions thanks
 
i just got my car tuned with the dsmlink v2, i have a 16g forced performance 16g and it spools to like 10 lbs for like 2 secs then spikes to 20 and my afr readings are 10.0 when it does it, just wondering is it in the tune or what?? i wasnt there while it was being tuned due to being outta town, any suggestions thanks
Are you logging your wideband? Post a log of it doing it, it can tell us more than you ever could and we'll be able to come up with a better diagnostic too.

:dsm:
 
i wasnt there for the tune, so i dont have the log man, the guy who tuned it said i need my manifold and turbo housing ported, he said its restricting the air from coming out the exhaust, and he said thats the reason for the pause in boost!!
 
i wasnt there for the tune, so i dont have the log man, the guy who tuned it said i need my manifold and turbo housing ported, he said its restricting the air from coming out the exhaust, and he said thats the reason for the pause in boost!!
You have dsmlink do you not? Hook up your damn laptop and start a log (F12) and let the car warm up to operating temp which is 180* for your coolant. Then while its still logging go WOT from 2k to 7k in third gear. Then hit F12 to stop the log, then save it, then log in here and attach it to your next post.

Is your WB connected to your ECU and being logged in dsmlink? Dsmlink isn't just a tuning tool, its also a troubleshooting tool so by posting a log of what its doing we could probably point you in the right direction and tell you what needs fixed.

The guy who tuned your car told you that it creeped from 10psi to 20psi because your TB/IM needed porting? Don't take your car back to him, your cars ability to manage/maintain a specified amount of boost has nothing to do with the porting on the intake side of things. If anything needs ported to keep that from happening would be the exhaust side of the turbo like your exhaust manifold, hotside of the turbo, and the o2 sensor housing. You can also run an external wastegate to control boost alittle bit better but your investing a lot more into it.

What kind of an exhaust setup are you running, 3" downpipe, cat delete, and 3" catback?

:dsm:
 
yea thats what he told me man about the boost creep, he has my link and the laptop, ive got full 3 in setup like u posted!!! he also said that when he took the vacum hose off the wastegate the car pulled 35 lbs without boost creep, thats why i posted on here cause i thinks it in the tune but i dont know the computer side of it thats why i asked man thanks for the info thats what i meant by porting, he siad the exhaust side and the exhaust manifold needs to be ported, but i dont understand why it pulls 35 lbs when the vacum hose is off with no boost creep
 
yea thats what he told me man about the boost creep, he has my link and the laptop, ive got full 3 in setup like u posted!!! he also said that when he took the vacum hose off the wastegate the car pulled 35 lbs without boost creep, thats why i posted on here cause i thinks it in the tune but i dont know the computer side of it thats why i asked man thanks for the info thats what i meant by porting, he siad the exhaust side and the exhaust manifold needs to be ported, but i dont understand why it pulls 35 lbs when the vacum hose is off with no boost creep
JESUS. He pulled off the vacuum hose to watch it spool to 35psi? That means your wastegate flapper isn't opening so your turbo is spooling to whatever it can before you shift... hes retarded. What he should have done was disconnect the wga (wastegate actuator) from the flapper and see how much boost you build doing it that way. On a perfect working setup you shouldn't be able to build ANY boost if you do it this way.

Exhaust flows like electricity and water, it will take the path of least resistance. Because your running such a massive exhaust the path of least resistance is OVER your turbine wheel on the turbo, which causes it to spool out of your control. Really it doesn't matter what it creeps to, you said what 20psi? Who cares since your probably going to be running 21+ lbs of boost anyway? If your trying to run lower then 20psi I suggest going back to the OEM downpipe/catalytic converter until your setup to run 20psi of boost.

...and go give the guy tuning your car a kick in his dumbass vag, he's an idiot and shouldnt touch your car again. I'm still new to DSM's compared to some of the guy's on these forums and I know better than to do the stuff the guy your PAYING is doing to your car.

:dsm:
 
ok if i remove the arm and drive it, and if it builds no boost then that means everthing is right????? if it builds boost then where do i start man
 
ok if i remove the arm and drive it, and if it builds no boost then that means everthing is right????? if it builds boost then where do i start man
Your budget is going to decide where to start, but there are (3) things you can do to eliminate boost creep, I'll start with the cheapest and get into the more expensive.

1. Revert back to your stock downpipe & catalytic converter.

2. Remove your exhaust manifold, turbo, and o2 sensor housing then port the crap out of them. Porting How-To's

3. Buy an external wastegate setup, this entails modifying your internal wastegate flapper and either upgrading your o2 sensor housing or exhaust manifold too.

It won't eliminate the problem but you can also buy a boost controller, bigger fuel pump, fuel injectors, and tuning software so you can run more boost safely and not worry about the boost creep. If the turbo only creeps to 20psi then thats as much as its going to creep, that means if you have all the supporting mods to run 20lbs of boost then who cares? It seems like you've got enough mods to run 20lbs or more, so why do you even care its creeping to 20psi? Its only bad if its creeping beyond what your setup can handle.

:dsm:
 
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ok maybe we need to start over LOL, i have 550s, gmaft, 2.5 ic piping, the motor is fully built stock crank, wiseco pistons eagle rods, built tranny, ported head, 272s before i got the dsmlink v2 and had it tuned it pulled 17 lbs easy with no boost lag, i buy the software have it tuned, and now it boost laggs really bad, my antilag is set up at 5500 wit 12 lbs, when i hammer it, it'll stay at 10 lbs for like 2 secs then finally go up to 20 lbs, and when its lagging my afr is a 10.0, i did have a boost controller on it before the tune and it was took off due to the fact of the boost lag, i just dont understand why it pulled 17 lbs before the tune and now it laggs so bad!!!!!!! lmk what u think thanks for the info man
 
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