1G Reed Switch

[andyb2637]

Ok so there's about 4 threads about this but they all end with an archived Vfaq that no longer works. Does anyone know where this dam reed switch is located inside of the cluster?? Cant find it for the life of me.

 

[luv2rallye]

Are you talking about the speedometer with reed switch inside it or what?

 

[stars]

The reed switch is inside the speedometer, do you have cruise control problems or is the speedo not working>?

 

[andyb2637]

Yea I have a code 24, check engine light flashing all the time. Needle is jumping around like crazy, I took the gauge cluster apart but couldnt find an actual link with an explanation of where its located. RPM not reading in dsmlink too. All that leads me to believe it must be the reed switch inside the cluster.

 

[stars]

You will have to get another Instrument cluster because the components are all built into the cluster and I believe there is no way to service each individual gauge, I could be wrong about this but; I remember I had problems with cruise control not working and narrowed it down to the reed switch in the speedo and came to the conclusion that it was not repairable and had to replace the entire gauge cluster. I had searched thru the F.S.M and finally found the electrical schematic from the Instrument cluster and traced the circuit down to inside the speedometer gauge itself. I disassembled my cluster and found it wasn't going to be easily fix and that I would have done more damage trying to fix it than if I had replaced it with another gauge cluster assembly.

 

[steve]

It's possible to replace the reed switch but the speedometer is mechanical and if the needle is bouncing around it sounds like more than the reed switch.

Keydiver used to have pictures of the switch I'll look around and see if I ever cached them away.

 

[andyb2637]

You will have to get another Instrument cluster because the components are all built into the cluster and I believe there is no way to service each individual gauge, I could be wrong about this but; I remember I had problems with cruise control not working and narrowed it down to the reed switch in the speedo and came to the conclusion that it was not repairable and had to replace the entire gauge cluster. I had searched thru the F.S.M and finally found the electrical schematic from the Instrument cluster and traced the circuit down to inside the speedometer gauge itself. I disassembled my cluster and found it wasn't going to be easily fix and that I would have done more damage trying to fix it than if I had replaced it with another gauge cluster assembly.

Yea thats exactly why i dont want to mess with it till I find some good info on it. I read posts tho of people replacing them and not having to change clusters. I just want to see if theres any way I can keep mine. Hard to find another cluster with 113k on it or close to that.

It's possible to replace the reed switch but the speedometer is mechanical and if the needle is bouncing around it sounds like more than the reed switch.

Keydiver used to have pictures of the switch I'll look around and see if I ever cached them away.

Yea I'm 100% sure its the reed switch. I just need to know a little insite on how to change it and maybe a pic of where its at. I hope Keydiver's got something left. Wicked frustrating to have my car running and I cant use the launch control or anything...

 

[andyb2637]

Really? No one has delt with this?

 

[GSLENK]

Its very easy to swap the mileage portion of your cluster over. If you can install an after market radio, you can do this.

Outline:

Pull cluster
Remove clear lens, and black bezel trim inside.

In bolt the odo from behind (or in forn I forget) should be 2 screws. Swap it into the $30 junker.

Enjoy speedo and CC

Alternatively you could archive/store your oem cluster, and just roll back the junkers odo to the same mileage and keep going on. (if you want to preserve the correct mileage when you pulled it for whatever reason and document that so you avoid having an altered odo)

Nice taste in DSMs btw...

 

[andyb2637]

Its very easy to swap the mileage portion of your cluster over. If you can install an after market radio, you can do this.

Outline:

Pull cluster
Remove clear lens, and black bezel trim inside.

In bolt the odo from behind (or in forn I forget) should be 2 screws. Swap it into the $30 junker.

Enjoy speedo and CC

Alternatively you could archive/store your oem cluster, and just roll back the junkers odo to the same mileage and keep going on. (if you want to preserve the correct mileage when you pulled it for whatever reason and document that so you avoid having an altered odo)

Nice taste in DSMs btw...

I think Im just going to swap over the gauges n find something close to my millage. Any chance that the Non turbo manual gauage will work on a turbo model? I dont care about the boost gauge since i have a mechanical one.

You to man! Never see these plymouths anymore. We got the rare gems

 

[steve]

I dug around and couldn't find a copy of the pictures where he showed how to take the speedometer apart and replace it. Sorry.

Do you know what the reed switch looks like? It's just a small glass tube with wires out each end. It mounted just above the center shaft to signal when the magnet on it comes past.

 

[kchaazz]

If the needle is jumping around on the speedo, its usually the speedometer cable from the transmission to the speedometer causing this. Since you have to replace the cable anyway in order to fix the jumping, Id do the cable first and see if this fixes the speed sensor code as a bad cable wont run the switch properly cause a bad cable binds and comes loose over and over again and it needs to spin smoothly. Also, out of the DSMs Ive owned over the years, the ones with a jumping speedometer needle always ended up with a broken cable not too long after the jumping began, so yours might end up breaking soon anyway.

 

[stars]

I dug around and couldn't find a copy of the pictures where he showed how to take the speedometer apart and replace it. Sorry.

Do you know what the reed switch looks like? It's just a small glass tube with wires out each end. It mounted just above the center shaft to signal when the magnet on it comes past.

You wouldn't happen to have a part number on that switch you found there Steve, would ya?

 

[steve]

That's just a generic reference image. I didn't spend any time looking for a real suitable replacement because I don't have the specifications and don't have a cluster apart to look at.

 

[andyb2637]

I havent gotten to checking on the cable yet but I did remeber that it was in good condition and not ripped anywhere (atleast through the fire wall).Clutch just started slipping so gotta take care of that now. I'll try to get it out tomorrow if i have time after work and inspect it alittle more behind the cluster, See if i can find a rip or break like kchaaz said. I'll get to the bottom of this!

PS my car stalls all the time to, well only if i let off the clutch at certain times (Hills mostly). Cant use the FC offset on link cause it doesnt register the rpm...SOB

 

[andyb2637]

Alright guys I finally managed to score a cluster with 98k for 35$.

Fixed all my problems. I can now use the FC offset, launch control, and everything else. If anyone else has this problem and has made sure that there cable is in working condition replace your cluster and you'll be right as rain.