Rattle..engine or transmission..?

[DSM IN MN]

The car is a 1995 Eagle Talon TSi AWD Automatic. It has a rattle from 3,000RPMs on up. 4,000RPMs is when it is REALLY audible.

I noticed it while the car was idling. Then it faded away. After driving the car and getting on the gas a little bit, I noticed that while doing so (getting on the gas), the car would make this noise. Now I drive the car as little as possible, and keep the RPMs down until my GS-T is fixed.

Not all that long ago I had a problem with a knocking sound. It turned out to be "just" loose bell housing bolts. Or at least that is what the mechanic who had lookws at my car said, whom also claimed my GS-T only had a Neon engine in it.. I had a few knowledgeable people (DSM wise), tell me to check the torque converter bolts, but my dad would not allow me the chance to drop the transmission and inspect it.

Instead the latter happened and I considered the problem solved. Since then I didn't drive the car. As forementioned my GS-T is down. Somehow the upper radiator..bung if you will, broke off and spewed my coolent everywhere. This car is my only option to drive.

Here is a short video of the sound:

Talon engine rattle. - YouTube

 

[Stmguy42]

First I would get a mechanics scope and listen for where the noise is coming from.

 

[bryanwheat]

That kind of sounds like a cracked exhaust manifold. I l would pull the heat shield off the manifold and check for leaks. Another option would be for you to take the radiator from this car and put it into your gst with the blown radiator.

 

[DSM IN MN]

That kind of sounds like a cracked exhaust manifold. I l would pull the heat shield off the manifold and check for leaks. Another option would be for you to take the radiator from this car and put it into your gst with the blown radiator.

The exhaust manifold is leaking from the first runner on the outter edge. But the rattle sounds like it is coming from inside the engine, or from the side of it.

The car does not have a heatshield, as shown in the video I posted. The GS-T has a Mishimoto rad. on its way from MAP as we speak. It sould be here tomorrow or Wednesday.

 

[98mitsubishigst]

rod knock bud.. from what i hear in this.. Its at the top of the RPM and is around that rpm where you hear the first stage of rod knock..

pull eat plug wire off one at a time and rev.. If its rod knock, one of the cylinders will stop making that noise..

 

[DSM IN MN]

rod knock bud.. from what i hear in this.. Its at the top of the RPM and is around that rpm where you hear the first stage of rod knock..

pull eat plug wire off one at a time and rev.. If its rod knock, one of the cylinders will stop making that noise..

It sounds pretty odd if it is a rod knock. I mean, I have heard a few different cars with rod knocks. This sounds nothing like it. If anything it sounds like a tapping. Not so much of a knock.

Can't you put it in drive and if it goes away it is not a rod knock? That and it only happens SOMETIMES at idle.

 

[98mitsubishigst]

It sounds pretty odd if it is a rod knock. I mean, I have heard a few different cars with rod knocks. This sounds nothing like it. If anything it sounds like a tapping. Not so much of a knock.

Can't you put it in drive and if it goes away it is not a rod knock? That and it only happens SOMETIMES at idle.

go drive it, if you can go in drive and hear it around 2.5k and up.. and if its at the TOP of the RPM, then its knocking..

Try my advice with pulling a plug wire and revving first.

 

[DSM IN MN]

I pulled each plug wire twice and listened. It made the noise every single time I revved it.

Are you sure you aren't supposed to pull each sparkplug and turn the car on?

Any other ideas on what to check for?

 

[Spoolin4Ever]

Based on just this video I'm going with rod knock or like a bearing going out...something that spells rebuild in the next 10-60k just depending on how it goes. I mean it sounds like you can still drive it for a while, but I'd plan on a 6 bolt in the not so distant future.

Basically sounds like "early rod knock". Not all the way gone yet, but you are getting ready to fully spin a bearing or it's the rod or wrist pin if they use them.

Does the car burn any oil and how many miles on it?

 

[crazytsiawd]

Ive gone through two 4g63 motors that have had rod knock, and ill agree this sounds nothing like it, tbh sounds more like bent valves.

 

[007jimmy]

When I blew my stock motor (rod knock on 2&3 cylinders) it didnt sound like that. Also i had no oil pressure (dummy light stayed on) and the car would barely run unless i kept the RPMs at 3k.

 

[DSM IN MN]

Based on just this video I'm going with rod knock or like a bearing going out...something that spells rebuild in the next 10-60k just depending on how it goes. I mean it sounds like you can still drive it for a while, but I'd plan on a 6 bolt in the not so distant future.

Basically sounds like "early rod knock". Not all the way gone yet, but you are getting ready to fully spin a bearing or it's the rod or wrist pin if they use them.

Does the car burn any oil and how many miles on it?

If what you are saying is true, it would have to be a hell of an early on stage of rod knock. If anything I think there is something going haywire with the head/valvetrain. What, I have no clue. But there's got to be something.

The car sits in a shed because I never drive it though, so I am not worried. It has a few exhaust leaks; one at the manifold before the turbo and one right under the seats. It has an oil leak off of the OFH. I do not exactly know if it burns oil though.

I do plan on doing adleast a stock rebuild with a few little goodies. I do not know when though. And forget the 6 bolt. Around here, I will pay up the you know what for a crank let alone an entire engine.

Ive gone through two 4g63 motors that have had rod knock, and ill agree this sounds nothing like it, tbh sounds more like bent valves.

Thanks! I'm starting to think this too. Nothing leads me to understand what lead to this though.

When I blew my stock motor (rod knock on 2&3 cylinders) it didnt sound like that. Also i had no oil pressure (dummy light stayed on) and the car would barely run unless i kept the RPMs at 3k.

The only light on in this car is the SRS light. (That was my own fault pulling the airbag before the cars internal memory/battery was completely dead.


If I decide against a full on rebuild I will just replace all the top end gaskets and such. I will also inspect the bottom end as well.

 

[DSM IN MN]

I think it may possibly be the crankshaft hitting the oil pan.

 

[donniekak]

I think it may possibly be the crankshaft hitting the oil pan.

Is the noise louder under the car? If so, it's probably a rod bearing.

 

[DSM IN MN]

Is the noise louder under the car? If so, it's probably a rod bearing.

To an extent yes. But aforementioned, I am possitive it is not a rod. The oil pan is pretty beat-up.

 

[DSM IN MN]

So, I though about doing a little project today. Maybe drop the oil pan?

I am lost as to what to look for. Any ideas on things under or around the engine/timing belt side that could vibrate to make this noise? I can only think of possibly the motor mount for some God awful reason.

We will see.


Added:

A local mechanic stopped out at our body shop yesterday as he was delivering a car to our impound lot. I know he is reputable. I deliver parts to him (for NAPA), on a regular/daily basis.

He said to check the flex plate for cracks, as well as the torque converter bolts to see if they were tight. The converter bolts all seem tight; I believe I have found hairline cracks by a few of the teeth on the flex plate however.

I am unsure what to do from here.

 

[Sickpuppyband]

Hi DSM in MN, Ive been having the same problem with my GST for a couple months now, can you tell me what was the fix..thx bro

 

[DSM IN MN]

Hi DSM in MN, Ive been having the same problem with my GST for a couple months now, can you tell me what was the fix..thx bro

Sorry man but, this car has been in a shed since. I have had ZERO time to work on it. I think I am just going to end up tearing the car apart.

 

[DSM IN MN]

BUMP! This car is coming back out today so I should have some new videos. We'll all have to brainstorm this issue as I'm not as smart with these automatic transmissions as some on this site are.

 

[DSM IN MN]

BUMP IT UP!

Alrighty! Back from the dead here but I have a little bit of an update on this. I changed the oil earlier today and noticed a little bit of a difference in the sound of this. It was soon replaced but just at a different RPM.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NvcRox2eCxc]'95 Talon knock/rattle update - 3/9/2014 - YouTube[/ame]

I drove the car after getting the lights working. I have no tachometer or speedometer so I am of no use there. After beating on the car a bit the sound has gone away at lower RPMs and is now higher up top. I'm seriously considering it is somehow transmission related.

I'm just curious if anyone has run into this problem yet. Or possibly even solved it for themselves if they've run into it.

 

[91-GS]

Almost sounds like it's a belt rubbing against a plastic cover. Does not sound like metal-on-metal.

 

[Lou98GSX]

it does sound like converter bolts hitting inspection cover . remove the cover and inspect it see if there are any scrape marks . also look at the converter bolts for signs of scraping .

 

[DSM IN MN]

It is definitely not a belt rubbing or hitting anything. The converter bolts hitting the inspection plate is also a negative. I've had the car on a lift and ran it without the cover. The same sound persisted.

Well to update this; I was forced to drive this to work today as my Colt didn't seem to want to fire all the time..odd, right? Any who, the car seems to only want to make the noise on deceleration. Accelerating there is no noise at all. There is also a rattle that I am 99.999% sure is the inspection plate.

When I am done building the transmission in my truck I will most definitely have to run this into school to see what I can find. As well as the harsh shifting into gear; mostly reverse.

 

[DSM IN MN]

Problem solved.

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