The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Please Where/how to change Idle air control on 98 gst?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Cesarlcase

10+ Year Contributor
261
5
Dec 29, 2009
lynbrook, New York
Need a bit of help...My idle air control valve is done for. Unfortunately it's dead a few blocks from my house and to save some time and money i figured i would just install it myself,only thing is i don't know where it's located and how to put it on. Im guessing its like a unscrew pull out and put in type of job. i could be wrong but any help is much appreciated.Thank you.
 
Try unscrewing the BISS as much as you can. Then I guess easiest thing will be to put something to prevent the throttle to fully close so you can drive your car home and then work on the ISC
 
I don't mind working on the car where it is. Thank you for that tip. Now that I know it's under the intake manifold, is it easily accessible and removable? do I have to remove anything to get to it? any specific tools? a detailed explanation please...really need the help from you guys. Thanks in advance
 
Two 8mm bolts. Long socket, short extension, whatever. Use your little/1/4" ratchet, take off air hose at TB, unplug harness, remove two screws, mind the o-ring. Install is reverse of removal. Replacement ISCs can be had for $40: Buy used throttle-bodies for $40. You get a new ISC, TPS, FIAV, IPS, and a new TB. All for $40. It's a good deal, even if half the components are used-up.

Please tell me you got this fixed by now! You can drive the car with a dead ISC, you just have to use your right foot to keep it running at stops. I have huge feet, so it's easy to keep one foot on two pedals at the same time.
 
Yeah initially I thought it was the IAC because i was told that it would cause stalling problems...so idk. Everything went down hill a few days ago while I was flooring it and i approached a red light. I stop for a few seconds,then made a turn driving at normal speed, SUDDENLY the car lost complete engine power and all i could due was steer it into a park. But all the lights in the car were on and everything. Just total lost of engine power. So after that,i restarted the car and all that happened was it would start for a few seconds and die immediately! I read that it could be fuel pump? I'm not sure. This is my everyday car as of now i can't drive it...and before I pay for a tow truck to pick up my car and bring it to a mechanic I would like some insight on what you guys think it could be so I could get the parts in advance (on a very tight budget.) Thanks once again. BTW it's a automatic car if that counts for anything.
 
the same thing happened to my spyder. I got the part for 29 bucks. Its on the bottom of the TB closer to the firewall. There's a connector and either 2 or 3 small phillips head screws. All you have to do is unplug the connector unscrew and pop the new on in. I was able to do it with the TB in and the s pipe installed

I forgot to mention the IAC sensor can make your car do crazy things. Mine would stall, run fine, idle rough,the idle would surge. It would change at random if I were you I'd change it then go from there
 
Well the thing is my eclipse will not start whats so ever. I turned it on a few hours ago and it was doing fine in park put it in D and it stalled out instantly! turned it back on and while in park, revved it to like 3k and it started making a sputtering,tried to give it more gas to pass 3 k and it just started losing engine power then shut off. Still think thats a IAC Problem? something else? I ordered one on ebay, wrong fit! tsk tsk. so im returning it back and getting anew one. hopefully solves problem. Another question is would a failing fuel pump/relay show up on a obd II scanner? ### i did and I came up with code that said my iac was screwed and my maf sensor. dont think the maf would cause this though
 
Brownfinger thank you so much, like I don't think I would of ever figured that out! (gradually learning) I pulled out the sensor and no more stalling! I'm a change the MAF asap! thanks a lot, I'm stoked! One little question, i have a aftermarket intake (injen) could i get a stock 2g maf still or no? Thanks again!!!
 
wiat, the maf or the iac.. whithc is it, ide like to know becuse im also having idle issues
 
wiat, the maf or the iac.. whithc is it, ide like to know becuse im also having idle issues

Dude before anything,your typing is really bad and bit annoying. Well,from what i've learned it could be the maf or the IAC. In my case the Maf is causing me not to be able to even drive the car! The I.A.C is causing my idle to act erratic. Sometimes it will be at 800 rpm then gradually goes up to 1600 even 2k! A way to see if your maf is bad you could tap it and if the engine reacts to this, it's a sign that your maf is no good or you could try what brown finger told me and remove the sensor and if that fixes your problem then there you go (Worked for me) If anything bring your car to a autozone or pep boys and let them scan it for free...So you could properly diagnose your car. If it happens to be your I.A.C dont buy an oem one! way to much money.
 
ya ya i know my typing is bad, i was in a hurry also, my bad. ill look into this tho, thanks.
 
I was going to say that I didn't think you IAC was the cause because when they fail, they are *supposed* to default to wide open (ed- not true) so that it will sustain some type of idle. Glad to hear you got it sorted out though.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
my MAS is bad, it reacted to taping. but thats ok im getting a maf translator, 3" mas and wideband o2. that should fix the issue. thanks Cesarlcase!
 
the same thing happened to my spyder. I got the part for 29 bucks. Its on the bottom of the TB closer to the firewall. There's a connector and either 2 or 3 small phillips head screws. All you have to do is unplug the connector unscrew and pop the new on in. I was able to do it with the TB in and the s pipe installed



i have a similar problem as the op. could you tell me what this connector is connected to? like a sensor or something?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top