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Another Engine Clean up Project/Fusebox Relocation

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DSM_PWR

15+ Year Contributor
2,457
19
Oct 12, 2007
Austin, Texas
So after reading turbosax2's thread http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/hangout/298569-my-fuse-box-relocation-project-log.html
I became really inspired to do the same to mine while installing some new goodies:sneaky: Recently i had a bad short in my wiring harness so i decided why not just take out the harness and remove unnecessary sensors/connectors and do some wire tucking.

So Day 1:
This is what my car looks like ((other than the bumper being off))
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3 Hours Later
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My goal is to finish all the following within this monthOMG

1. Rewire ECU/Fusebox Harness and take out unnecessary connectors:
* Manifold Differential Pressure (MDP) sensor
* Auto-Cruise Control Vacuum Pump (Cruise Control Actuator)
* Fuel Pressure Solenoid (FPS) Valve
* Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Control Solenoid
* Brake Fluid Level Switch
* Hood Switch
* Dual Pressure Switch (AC)
* Evaporative Purge Solenoid
* Theft Alarm Horn
* Turbocharger Waste Gate Solenoid Valve [Boost Control Solenoid (BCS)]
* EVAP Emission Purge Control Solenoid Valve
* Air Conditioning (A/C) Compressor
* Left Fog Light
* Right Fog Light
* Fuel Pump Check Connector

2. Relocate Fusebox inside
3 Remove Powersteering
4 Eliminate balance shaft
5 Replace Timing belt/tensioners/pulleys
6 Replace Headgasket
7 Install JM FAB SMIM
8 Install HKS 272/272 Cams
9 Install & Tune DSMLink
10 Install the STM Fuel Pump to Fuel Rail kit w/Filter

... and probably take a visit to a local chroming shop :sneaky:

Ill take pics day to day of progress:thumb:
 
Im trying to figure out the best place to put it for easy access, but most likely either behind the ECU against the firewall or on the firewall right behind the glovebox
 
Are you keeping all the HVAC stuff under the dash? If you are, both of those spots are filled with ducting and the heater core/blower. Drop the glove box down and take a look back there - the whole space is filled. You might have enough space to put it behind the ecu near the firewall but it will be a tight fit.
 
yea i cant live without the heater during winter.. brrr...

Yea i can tell its gunna be a tight fit, but once im done and tested it for a couple of days ill just bolt it down somewhere around that area. I have rarely if never broken a fuse until i got the short somewhere so it wont be to much hassel.

Are you going to bolt to transistor next the the fusebox?
 
Ya, the power transistor and injector resistor box will be bolted somewhere on the cabin side of the firewall, probably close to the fuse box. There are a bunch of studs welded to the firewall that were used to mount the HVAC stuff so it'll be easy for me to make some brackets to mount everything.
 
Another good place to relocate some things to is the crossmember you can see back towards the firewall on a 2g. My friend and I moved his whole cruise control system down there with some brackets i made and by welding a few studs on the x-member facing upwards (the motor was out so it was easy to do)

The power transistor can be bolted to one of the bottom intake mani studs to get it out of the way(you simply need to pull some wire out of the loom and re-route it to do this and tehre's no cutting or soldering needed on a 2g). The resistor pack can be moved to the left (when looking from the front) and lowered out of sight as well. There's nothing i love more than a clean engine bay free from masses of wire!

Then we took the fusebox and mounted it where the original SMIC was located, there's several holes threaded M6 x1.0 so we just used a single bolt and a small spacer i made on my lathe to move the box under there. The spacer was for looks, a few washers works just as well, but i love making things from aluminum so i wouldn't let him keep it on with washers.

This loction on teh fusebox does make changing fuses a PITA. I had my fusebox there for a few months until rain got in it a few times causing me all sorts of issues with running and charging.
 
Then we took the fusebox and mounted it where the original SMIC was located, there's several holes threaded M6 x1.0 so we just used a single bolt and a small spacer i made on my lathe to move the box under there. The spacer was for looks, a few washers works just as well, but i love making things from aluminum so i wouldn't let him keep it on with washers.

This loction on teh fusebox does make changing fuses a PITA. I had my fusebox there for a few months until rain got in it a few times causing me all sorts of issues with running and charging.

yea i had the fusebox there for a while, wrapped and everything to try and avoid water, but i guess as many times as i power wash the car and the rain, it eventually caused the problem to my electrical short.

Although good idea about the crossmember, ive been trying to think of how to hide all the wires after im ready to put things back and have that "barely there" enigne bay.
 
Love the "crankwalker" too, forgot to post that this morning LOL LOL

I got my wires down to a minimum if you want me to post a pic, i only extended 2 injector wires and that was because i changed the order of them firing in my ECU and didn't want to make the change in the loom under the dash.

You can seperate the injector wires from the coil wires by pulling them out of the loom, then run the ignition wires under the intake and mount the transistor under there as well. i also tucked my injector wires under the rail and ran them up and out to their respective injectors right where they connect.

I'll go get pics and put them up here real fast.
 

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Oh, you just cursed yourself - it's going to take 2 months now...tsk tsk.
 
DAY 2
Got all the timing/manifolds/water lines off the block, cleaned up the engine bay a little, and removed the ECU harness and rewired it.
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BEST TOOL EVER!!
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I took off all the wire loom and tape off and man it was definitely sticky...
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Here's all the unnecessary connectors from the ECU harness
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I finished up the ECU harness by removing all these sensors/connectors and i rewired the Power Transistor/injector resistor box to the lower end of the harness (Inside the Car)

* Manifold Differential Pressure (MDP) sensor
* Auto-Cruise Control Vacuum Pump (Cruise Control Actuator)
* Fuel Pressure Solenoid (FPS) Valve
* Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Control Solenoid
* Brake Fluid Level Switch
* Theft Alarm Horn
* Turbocharger Waste Gate Solenoid Valve [Boost Control Solenoid (BCS)]
* EVAP Emission Purge Control Solenoid Valve
* Air Conditioning (A/C) Compressor
* Fuel Pump Check Connector
 

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Last edited by a moderator:
Good job! I use to hate wiring but it seems like you've got the patience for it :)

Maybe i missed it, but did you pull the motor just to do the wiring or did you need it out for other reasons as well?
 
Well i needed to install the STM Fuel Filter kit, Remove Balance Shafts, New Headgasket, Timing Belt Kit, HKS Cams and JM Fab SMIM. It just made more sense to pull the motor so i can have VERY easy access to everything.

Plus it doesnt hurt to clean every once ina while:D.. i found an old bee hive nest on the back of the block:mad: Damn bee's owe me rent moneyROFL
 
ha ha for everyone asking who did my Valve cover, it was "ct78155" View Profile: ct78155 - DSMtuners.com
He shaved it, powdercoated it Candy Purple, then made the decal, then threw on a clear coat:thumb:
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where did you get that spark plug cover plate and how much was it?
 

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ct78155 has done numerous things for me as well. He has powdercoated a shaved VC, shaved my fuel rail and powdercoated, he is powdercoating my oil pan and water pipe. He is the man!! :thumb:

James :laser::talon:
 
ct78155 sold me cracked up sideskirts. :toobad:

I like your thread. Good luck on finishing.
 
ct78155 sold me cracked up sideskirts. :toobad:

I like your thread. Good luck on finishing.

Really? I've heard nothing but good things from him. I have bought a bunch of things off of him. And i will continue to. He's upfront and even takes pics for me to show progress. Must have been a bad day.

James :laser::talon:
 
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