The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Delete Water cooling

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

syrushcw

15+ Year Contributor
296
0
Dec 12, 2006
Trumbull, Connecticut
Well I was doing a little shopping and I came across Jay racing Water Pump Block-off Plate and read this "It can be used when deleting water cooling from the block," Maybe im missing something but why would someone use this type of setup. I searched and found nothing about deleting water pump. So can some one inform what would a setup like this do and what are the bonuses. Im not looking at doing this I just want to learn about it.
 
For drag cars. Some people fill their block to make them stronger which eleminates the cooling jackets.
 
After you crack a couple blocks like I have, you will quickly learn about concrete block filling.
 
I have never heard of this before. So why would you want to add concrete again? Also I didn't know that alcohol cools when its ran... very interesting.
 
I just want to add that the cars running alcohol and filled blocks are only making quick passes and then are allowed to cool down in between runs. Just because the alcohol has a cooling effect and does not require water, this does not mean that it can be run for an extended period of time. It can still overheat. I just wanted to add this so someone doesn't get confused.:)
 
How long do these engines usually last? I take it letting them cool after each run is the most important thing for long engine life?
 
Hmm when you do the math 20 1/4 runs that dosnt seem that bad. When they do go do they just replace the head because that sounds like the thing that takes the damage.
 
On real, real drag motors, everything takes the wear: cylinder walls, piston crowns, ring lands, rings, bearings, timing belt/chain, oil pump, valve guides, valves, cams, springs, crankshafts, rods and every other part that touches or moves near another. By the time John Force or any of his competitors are loading the trailer, half the hardware in there has been meticulously and thoroughly turned into scrap.
 
On real, real drag motors, everything takes the wear: cylinder walls, piston crowns, ring lands, rings, bearings, timing belt/chain, oil pump, valve guides, valves, cams, springs, crankshafts, rods and every other part that touches or moves near another. By the time John Force or any of his competitors are loading the trailer, half the hardware in there has been meticulously and thoroughly turned into scrap.
Top Fuel drag motors last less than 1/2 mile.

They are powered up, go through the burnout box, make the 1/4 mile pass and then get towed back to the pits. Then the motor is rebuilt after every pass. Talk about breaking-in the motor.
 
they made a rule (I believe it was f1 racing) that you have to run the same motor in at least 2 races without changing the motor... this is because mercedez was basically throwing out an engine every race.. I mean LITERALLY throwing a motor in the scrap heap every race.. and those were built to last as well..

Alot of people rebuild motors every single race.. it keeps everything in spec, and replaces the parts that you rip to shreds.. I love it.. hahaha.. have you ever seen top fuel pistons after a race? or at least, whats left of them.. all burnt and scored..

if you are running "million dollar passes", you need all the power and strength you can get.. Screw it if you have to replace the motor.. thats the big boy's code.. LOL...
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top