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2G Putting on the 3KGT TT brakes

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EuroGSTSpyder

20+ Year Contributor
1,171
2
Feb 18, 2002
Stockholm, Europe
I am going to put on the 3KGT TT brakes on the Spyder since the stock brakes really suck!! 3KGT TT ones with ss lines should be enugh to stop the Spyder in a good fashion.Now I was wondering if anyone has used them and can share som info? I know hte SL breakes are common to use but I have not seen too many with the TT brakes so....

EDIT: Checked the VFAQ on this and found some info..but I had a friend here put these brakes on his NT 1G and he didnt use anyting but a new bracket for the brakes..and new rotors of course:)
 
Hmmmm. It would not be easy to get VR4 Brakes on an Eclipse. I know what the suspensions look like on both cars.

I have an NA 3000GT with front VR4 brake upgrade. To get it working, I had to change the Steering knuckle, hub and spindles. The Steering knuckle connects to the Strut. That will not work in an Eclipse, beacuse the Struts are completely different

MAYBE.... MAYBE and thats a BIG maybe, you could take the Shocks+Knuckls+Hubs and spindle. If they will fit on your balljoint. That could work. I would have to look undermy cars to find out. But that is a big maybe and a highly unlikley

The picture makes me think it is unlikely that you could put the parts on without some fabrication. The Calipers are not in a Stock position. Where did your friend get a Braket? Did he make it himeslef?

But who knows... I do have an extra set of VR4 Rotors and calipers.... hmmm.
 
yes he made a bracket himself..and so will I . I have friends who race on the traxk ( like BTCC) and they are used to custommake brackets for this kinda stuff..But the guy who has hte car on the pic said it was little mods to be made.He only made a new bracket...no spindle or hub change in any way....

Heres the directory for a few pics of his install..not much but still..

http://stalhamre.kicks-ass.net/files/mcs/all_to_slow/030814/
 
Hmmmm, thats pretty cool. the 3000GT VR4 brakes are awesome. I have them on my NA 3000GT, which weghs 3200lbs, and the car can easily stop on a dime. But you have to watch your clearance. The calipers are giant

how much would you charge to get me those brakets? I could easily be a test for you, since I already have old rotors and VR4 calipers.
 
I will make these brackets first and see how they fit and so on.Will be done during winter. Cleareance is no issue for me since I am on 18's so....no problem. I will get back when I started to get this together so I know how much is invoilved with it..I have the brakes at home right now......just need to get the rotors:) After the brackets are made and the calipers in place..its time for stainless lines too*hehehe* If I cannot stop then..I can never stop!!! ;-)
 
This is good news for me. (old post I know but I want this diccussion to continue)

After reading a few boards on this issue, I decided to give it a try so I just picked up a pair of VR4 calipers. They dont look like the ones in the pics though, they have Mitsubishi in raised letters on them.

Anyways, I am a machnist and usually pretty confident about fabing parts up for custom jobs and was very prepared to start mangling a knuckle for the install untill I saw this post.

One question I have is about the clearance. I just traded my Motegi MR8 18" wheels for a set of brand new Konig Holes (17" 45mm)

Now, if the clearance on my new rims isnt enough to prevent the calipers from rubbing on the spokes, wouldnt a simple spacer do the trick?

BTW, what size rotors are thos in the pics and what will most suit my setup.

Please, lets get this topic going again, ALL info ideas appreaciated.
 
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I think those konig's might fit. Some wheels have more space than others.

Looks like it was just a flat steel plate that was machined into the right shape to make the bolt patterns go together.

I might just look for a wrecked EVO for mine... Then fire up the plasma cutter.
 
In all the threads I found on this subject, every one seems to be making mountains out of mole hills. I'm gonna get at this and when I come up with a final bracket, I will share the cad with anyone who is interested in it to use for CNC machining, water jet etc...

I think its gonna be gravey:thumb:

Need to find a VR4 master cylender though, I dont think the 91 AWD cylender will give the pedal a very nice and hard feel, even with SS brake lines.

Before I attemt to make a bracket, any ideas on what size rotor to use. I think the biggest I can use will be a 12.2" rotor without running into rim clearance issues. Any one care to comment on this? All ideas and comments needed here.
 
Just get a 3kgt VR4 front rotor. Generic replacement rotors are cheap for nearly every car.

Get this... I might make a bracket for my rear brakes.....

Why? So I can put the twin piston calipers I had up front back there.

It will involve some carefull grafting of the parking drum to a front disk...

Front 3KGT VR4 or EVO brakes.. rear AWD dsm front twin piston ventilated.

I can weld, cut, fabricate and hand fit like a mo-fo... I have access to the right equipment to make sure everything is aligned accurately and true...

Ohh I forgot..

There are two Vr4 rotor and caliper sizes. I think your calipers are the newer ones and take the big rotor...

http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDet...=RAY&MfrPartNumber=76459&PartType=221&PTSet=A
 
If you have VR-4 Rotors, The calipers need aprox 2.5 inches of clearance from the surface of the rotor to the spoke of the wheel.

Now, given that the 3000GT VR-4 rotor is about .5 inches thicker than an Eclipse Rotor, I would say, you need to measure about 3 inches from the Surface of your eclipse rotor to the spoke of your wheel, to clear the VR4 Brake calipers.

For that, you need at minimum, an 8 inch wheel... and a lot of luck. The pick above, someone shaved the caliper, so that the wheel would clear it.
 
Originally posted by tqlla
If you have VR-4 Rotors, The calipers need aprox 2.5 inches of clearance from the surface of the rotor to the spoke of the wheel.

Shaving them is no prob but why does there have to be 2.5" clearence? the wheel, caliper and rotor etc.. all move together when turning the steering wheel etc.... Please explain.
 
I think he meatn that the space between the surface of the rotor and the inside of the spoke neds to be 2,5 inches to ba able to hold the caliper.If smaller the caliper will not fit in there....it will touch the spoke.
Has nothing to do with turning....
 
Ahh, I see, the mounting surface is what he is talking about, not the actual distance between the caliper and spoke once mounted. I thought that was what was being said because I was positive there isnt even close to 2.5 inches right now between the 93 calipers I have on there now. My bad
 
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