Help!My readings after i got alignment...

[SilvaSpyda]

Left Front
Actual -0.6
Spec Range -0.8 0.2

Right Front
Actual -0.2
Spec Range -0.8 0.2

Left Rear
Actual -1.3
Spec Range -2.2 -1.2

Right Rear
Actual -2.2
Spec Range -2.2 -1.2

...this was all after alignment...Do i need camber kits, if so would i need both front and rear?

 

[brentsd]

well if i'm reading those right you are all in spec... so there shouldn't be a problem, however between your two rear tires theres quite a difference in the camber... but still in spec, so i wouldn't get a kit, maybe just the 15 dollar one to get those rear tires closer to the same camber, but i'd say nothing is needed. As long as you got it aligned and the toe is in good order, with your camber at those readings you'll be ok.

 

[SilvaSpyda]

.....yeah it seems to be all in spec according to the sheet...but when i look at it, it still seems to me that the tires are still not straight on for some reason..anyone know how much it is to install camber kits?

 

[shuwa29]

you want the toe to be good too. toe will eat away tires faster than camber. but yeah, toe and camber work off each other so one will correct/throw off the other.
later

 

[brentsd]

shuwa29 is right on about the toe/camber thing

 

[Doug99RS]

Originally posted by SilvaSpyda
Left Front
Actual -0.6
Spec Range -0.8 0.2

Right Front
Actual -0.2
Spec Range -0.8 0.2

Left Rear
Actual -1.3
Spec Range -2.2 -1.2

Right Rear
Actual -2.2
Spec Range -2.2 -1.2

...this was all after alignment...Do i need camber kits, if so would i need both front and rear?

I would recomend at least doing the shims on the rear. You've got nearly a full degree difference between the left and right rear. The front is not nearly as bad.

Looking at the specs and the actual readings, yes they're within specs. But they're not even. Left rear... it's just on the positive limit. Right rear is just on negative limit. That's going to cause the right rear to push the car left. There can be changes made to toe to prevent you from feeling this but the condition will still be there.

As everyone else has been saying, toe is very important to preventing tire wear. I would shim the right rear out to get it closer to the left side then have it re-aligned.

Here's what I did on a 2g gst that has the eibach pro-kits:
intial readings:
left front toe -0.23" right front 0.01"
LF camber -0.10D RF camber -1.7D

Left rear toe 0.10" Right rear 0.17"
LR Camber -1.9D LR Camber -2.4D

I used flat washers that measure 1.75mm in thickness to shim out the rear. The washers and install directions are listed on VFAQ. I installed 1 shim at each bolt on the right rear.

Second readings after rear shims only:
Left front toe -0.26" RF 0.04"
Front Camber stayed the same

Left rear toe 0.10" right rear toe 0.11"
LR Camber -1.9D RR Camber -2.1D

One shim at each bolt for the upper a-arm gave me 0.3 degrees of positive camber. If you use the same kind of washer as the VFAQ says and get the longer and stronger bolts too then 3 washers should put the right rear dead even with the left rear. I would not do more than 2 washers per bolt without getting the longer and stronger bolts.
Doug

 

[brentsd]

listen to doug, hes the shiznit with alignments