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Funny Camber Readings...

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ypnas777

20+ Year Contributor
301
1
Feb 24, 2003
North Andover, Massachusetts
After installing the Eibach Prokit with Tokico Illumina struts on my 1998 GS-T, I went to get the car aligned and got some funny results with the front Camber. I got -1.0 degrees and -2.2 degrees from left to right respectively. I do not understand why there is such a big difference b/w the two sides :confused:. Anyways, Since the right side camber of -1.0 is acceptable should I just get a camber kit only for the right side and adjust the right side to match the left side? I was looking at the ingalls kit which adjusts camber from +1.25 to +3 degrees. What do you guys think? Thank You
 
the guy who aligned the car should have gotten them as close to eachother as possible, and thats not close at all, i bet you car pulls hardcore to the left. id either take it back and have it re-aligned or take it to a reputable shop. i have a prokit on tokicos on my 98 gst, not sure which ones but i was able to get the camber perfect. my guess is that the tech wasnt sure how or didnt feel like setting the camber properly.
 
It's possible that the problem is not the car at all. On the alignment machine heads, the mechanic must make sure that he properly clamps them with the feet fully seated against the rim.

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On the picture to the right, the feet that clamp on the the wheel itself can be tight in an up and down direction enough not to fall off the wheel. However, if you do not fully push the whole wheel adapter towards the wheel and make sure all the feet bottom out then you could end up with inaccurate toe OR camber readings.

For example, the picture on the left, say the two top feet are not pushed in all the way then you would have a more positive camber reading. If the opposite side of the car has the lower feet not pushed in all the way the you would have a more negative camber reading. This would add up to a larger difference from side to side.

Likewise, if the right side upper and lower clamps are not pushed in all the way then the vehicle would appear to be toed out and so the mechanic would then adjust the tie rods (or linkages or whatever) to bring it back within spec. This ultimately would cause the car to be toed inward slightly.

It doesn't take much to throw off an alignment if you're not using the equipment properly. I've learned that the hard way and that's why I know it's possible to mount the heads, not have them fall, and still not have them mounted PROPERLY.
Doug
 
I know that this is an old post but I do alignments everyday and as far as I know there is no adjustment on 2g in stock form so the tech could not even adjust it so dont go back and tell them they did a bad job. Now as far as the difference between the two readings. the right side should alweys be higher then the left side. Usually on most cars i did the difference is like .50. Now if it is a little more or a little less its ok as long as the right side is bigger. So, get the camber kit and get an alignment done again, and i dont know if they sell camber kits for one side, I believe its in pairs.
 
I'm curious: why do alignment people think it's OK to have more right camber than left? I know what many cars have more right caster than left (so they'll go straight on roads with high centers), but I've not heard of any car company doing this with camber, instead of caster. Please say more. Thanks.

- Jtoby
 
Very simple, the reason why its "ok" to have the right camber higher then the left is because when you sit in the car, the left camber goes up and they get about even, usually you want like between 0.20 and 0.50 of a degree of difference. Thats why its good to align vans when they are fully loaded. Sorry to bring back the old thread.
 
True but who is going to sit there? No one is going to pay a tech to sit there when you are doing alignment and no one will let a customer sit there because of insurance policy.
 
It depends on the vehicle, alignment program, type of alignment machine. I know that the system I use, it will tell you if it needs weight in the car. In example, alot of BMW's, Audi's, Mercedes, etc. Will all require weight in the car to simulate a loaded car, or a driver and passenger. NOT ALL VEHICLES are like this. Usually it is just high end cars or sometimes vehicles with ESC (Electronic Stability Control) or some form of it. Up top where you guys said its fine to be off like that. Uh, not that I know of. All cars have different tolerances but from left to right they are almost always the same. I don't think I have done an alignment yet that the left and right camber center setting has been different. Not that I have been doing alignments for years, but like I said it depends on the vehicle, type of alignment machine, alignment program, etc. I will print off the specs for a 1g and 2g GST and GSX with tolerances and post them up for everyone to see.
 
For what you need a camber kit for one side would be sufficient. Camber should be equal on the LF and RF. RF should have around 1.0* more caster than the LF to compensate for road crown. Should be a slight toe out. The rear should be as equal as possible as well. You can get a better reading with weight in the vehicle but I don't do it unless the customer is in excess of 250lbs. Anything lighter than that isn't going to affect it enough. When I do BMW's it does require me to hang weight but I found the effects are minimal. When I take the weight off the seats and trunk I get maybe .2* at most of camber change.
 
To the OP, have you double checked everything to make sure your install is correct? I had a friend who didn't have the springs completely seated. Just double check and let us know.
 
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