DIY camber kit bolts. Apparently, I was sent the wrong ones.

[PieEyedPiper]

Still toughing it out on my illumina/prokit install ( H&R's were just too much money right now).

This time though, I'm working on the camber kit. I'm using the DIY washer/bolt method.
Problem is I need my car ASAP and this has really screwed up my timetable. I'm going to order the bolt online form McMaster-Carr.

Since I've already messed this up once, can someone please double check this for me?
I tired to get a harder bolt, 10.9 would be nice, but they don't seem to carry anything harder in the size needed for this project (if you can find one please post!)

http://www.mcmaster.com/
Part Number: 91180A636
Head Style
Standard Hex
Material Type
Steel
Finish
Zinc-Plated
Grade/Class
Class 8.8
System of Measurement
Metric
Thread Size
M10
Metric Thread Pitch
1.25 mm
Length
35 mm
Head Width
17 mm
Head Height
6.4 mm
Thread Style
Right Handed
Thread Length
Fully Threaded
Thread Fit
Class 6g
Rockwell Hardness
C22-C32
Minimum Tensile Strength
116,000 psi
Specifications Met
Deutsche Industrie Normen (DIN)
DIN Specification
DIN 961

 

[jtmcinder]

You can get these at any PepBoyz or Lowes. I prefer 40mm.

Keep-Tite #44248

- Jtoby

 

[RamenPride]

I got grade 8.8 bolts at Home Depot.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Unfortunately, I have no pepboys, and lowes/home depot/yard birds/napa/kragen/ace hardware in my area don't even carry hardened metric bolts at all. They also said they couldn't get them in within 2weeks or less so that was out.

I'm set on ordering from mcmaster-carr. Wret likes them and often gets his stuff the next day. I'm willing to give it a go.

Is the part I listed going to work for me? I will use the 40mm like jtoby suggested.
I need to order tonight to get this done in time.
Thanks guys.

 

[jtmcinder]

Yes, M10-1.25 (aka M10-fine) is correct and a 17mm head is convenient, since 99% of all DSM bolts are 14 or 17. And, if you are in the middle of no-where, M-C is a great option as it does ship that day. Gotta love computerized warehousing.

- Jtoby

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Thanks again, everyone.
Using an Ingalls magnetic bubble level camber alignment device thinga-ma-bob that I borrowed from a local shop, I was able to get both sides of the rear done to an acceptable level.

I got the left side dialed in to 0* and the right side about -.33*
I'm sure the alignment shop can work with that

 

[jtmcinder]

I got the left side dialed in to 0* and the right side about -.33*

Zero camber? Way to little. Half a degree per side would be much better, if not more.

- Jtoby

 

[PieEyedPiper]

I'll wait for then spec sheets to come back then I'll have a better idea.
On the bright side it only takes 15min to 20min to take out a washer from that zeroed side.
Thanks for bringing that to my attention.

Edit: adjusting my camber by means of a single washer from each mounting point to try and net me a half degree of camber won't mess up my toe will it? I mean of course it will change, but not to the point of needing to be re-aligned..right?

This supension stuff is intense..sometimes I wish I stayed in the newbie section.
I'm sure I'll feel better about it once this is taken care of once and for all.

 

[jtmcinder]

Sorry, but changing camber changes toe. Look at the places where the lower lateral arm and the toe arm meet the knuckle. The toe arm is higher, so adding negative camber adds toe-in.

- Jtoby

 

[PieEyedPiper]

For god's sake

Well I just took the car in 10min ago so it won't be long until I find out what they were able to do and .. not. The guy was reluctant to touch the rear for anything less than $180.
But in the end we agreed that we would go for zero toe and factory camber etc. for $89.

I'll post back with the results. Maybe I'll get lucky and they can get my camber right on their own.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Alrighty, the results are in.
I'm mostly satisfied, but if I shouldn't be let me know!

Front Camber
Left -0.7* / Right -1.4* (He says he could not adjust this and I would have to have my frame pulled to fix it)
Front Caster
Left 3.3* / Right 4.5*
Front Toe
Left 0.00" / Right 0.00"
SAI
Left 8.0* / Right 8.8*
Included Angle
Left 7.2* / Right 7.4*


Rear Camber
Left -0.5* / Right -0.8*
Rear Toe
Left 0.04" / Right 0.08"

 

[jtmcinder]

That will be fine. The reason the caster values don't match is you have not flipped the bushing on the driver's-side compression arm. The reason your front camber values don't match is your car is listing about .35* to the left, which is typical of 2Gs.

I'm not screamingly happy about exactly zero front toe, but drive it for a while to see if it causes a wandering problem. That's a good amount of rear toe-in for safety.

In summary: time to forget about all this and have some fun driving.

- Jtoby

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Awesome. Thanks for working this out with me.

Having read your posts regarding the flipped bushing on the driver's side, I have a lot of high center roads around her so I'll leave that how it is for now.
As for the zero toe up front I like it for highway driving. The extra slop, you have also described in previous posts, manages to keep me straighter with less effort. Almost like a buffer for every little twitch I may make to the wheel.
But I completely understand how if I was truly concerned with serious racing or the like I would like to have some toe to allow for more crisp and responsive handling.

I have noticed this slight listing to the left when on the highway. I may aim to correct that one day, but as you said, it's time to forget about this stuff and go have some fun!

 

[PieEyedPiper]

I've recently noticed severe wear on my front right tire. All other tires have plenty of tread.
In my alignment specs posted above, can anyone see a reason for such extreme wear on that tire?

I realize its 2x the negative camber on that side, but thats still only a difference of .7*. Do you think that bit more camber on that tire is causing the increase in wear?


Also some more background information on whats going on:

I installed Tockico Illumina shocks and Eibach ProKit springs on my '98 GSX and everything went smoothly for the most part. But I was left with a couple issues.

1. The rear right rubber boot thing (please correct terminology), that seats the springs into the hat thinger (please correct terminology) at the top of the assembled spring and shock, was a little torn up when I removed it from the car initially. I went ahead and reused it because I didn't have any other choice at the time. For some reason, ironically, that is the highest or second highest side on the entire car. I would have guessed it would be lower since the spring was sinking further into that rubber thinger due to its tear.

2. All 4 corners lowered different amounts. The front driver's side is slammed, the front right side is a measurable amount higher and the rear is pretty much at stock height with 3.5 fingers on one side and 4 fingers on the other.

What caused this and how can I correct it?

EDIT: 3. How can I correct the camber in the front so they match? I was told ProKits require no camber kit in the front.