Breaking in pads and my dumb self!

[Slammed0]

Well I have read numerous opinions through this forum on how to break in pads. I just did all four of my rotors and replaced them with slotted rotors. Then I got some good pads from Autozone with the lifetime warranty (ceramics).

Anyways, I did a few slow to stop braking. Seemed a tad shaky at first but then it went away. ???? Then I did a few fast to slow hard stopping. This may have been a bad idea. Pedal got a little mushy on one of the stops and I saw some smoke. I was very close to home so I went home and the pads and/or the rotors on the front were smoking a little bit.


So, flame away! I need to know how to and not to break in my brakes. Hope I didn't ruin anything while doing this!

Thanks guys! FWD 1996

 

[1stGenRocks]

a little bit of smoke is normal when everything is new

 

[jtmcinder]

Please tell us you never came to a full stop during this process. That's the biggest newbie error.

- Jtoby

 

[Slammed0]

Actually no I never did just slam to a full stop. Only under normal conditions at lights. stops signs, etc.

 

[jtmcinder]

You never, ever, want to come to a full stop when bedding new pads on new rotors. Do it somewhere where there are no lights or stop-signs.

- Jtoby

 

[Slammed0]

Ok, advice taken. Ya, I don't think I was very wise the way I started out on them. Lesson learned. However, I may have been lucky cause they seem to be working well. I might bleed them and try to get the pedal a little stiffer but thats about it.

 

[4BangR-x]

Some may find this repetitive, but here goes

Step 1. Do 10 stops from 20, and brake hard. Not hard enough to throw ABS for a loop but very firm. You should come to a complete stop in this step. The purpose of this is to start warming up the pads.

Step 2. Do 10 nearly complete stops from 40. This should warm the pads up to around 550-650 degrees to start driving the gas out of the pads.

Step 3. Do 10 nearly complete stops from 70mph. Obviously, if the area you are in doesnt warrant this, go a little slower. You want to apply the brakes hard enough so you can smell them working. Make sure your window is down in this step.

Step 4. Drive for a few miles until the braking system is completly cool. Your brakes should now be well bedded

 

[speedy13]

Well I have read numerous opinions through this forum on how to break in pads. I just did all four of my rotors and replaced them with slotted rotors. Then I got some good pads from Autozone with the lifetime warranty (ceramics).

Anyways, I did a few slow to stop braking. Seemed a tad shaky at first but then it went away. ???? Then I did a few fast to slow hard stopping. This may have been a bad idea. Pedal got a little mushy on one of the stops and I saw some smoke. I was very close to home so I went home and the pads and/or the rotors on the front were smoking a little bit.


So, flame away! I need to know how to and not to break in my brakes. Hope I didn't ruin anything while doing this!

Thanks guys! FWD 1996

Thats normal. When that happens just let them cool off as you drive and then the pedal will get hard again.

 

[jtmcinder]

Step 1. Do 10 stops from 20, and brake hard. Not hard enough to throw ABS for a loop but very firm. You should come to a complete stop in this step. The purpose of this is to start warming up the pads.

I don't know where you got this, but I could not agree less. Most of the time that you feel the symptoms of "warped rotors" you are really feeling the effects of uneven deposits of material on the rotor. One of the best ways to create uneven deposits is to come to a complete stop with your foot on the brakes when the rotors are hot. To the extent that the above Step 1 has the goal of heating the brakes, it will, by the end, involve warm or hot rotors, and, therefore, should not include coming to a complete stop.

If you search around, there are about as many different suggestions on bedding as there are decent makers of pads. The better vendors -- e.g., Todd at TCE -- are honest enough to tell you that the method you use probably doesn't make much a difference, as long as you use one of them. With that said, however, it is important to note the one thing that all suggested methods have in common: don't come to a complete stop!

- Jtoby

 

[jtmcinder]

Thats normal. When that happens just let them cool off as you drive and then the pedal will get hard again.

No. Fade is normal when the brakes get too hot, but a spongy pedal is always a bad sign. The brakes need to bled again, using fresh fluid ... not a bottle that's been on the shelf after opening for six months, absorbing moisture from the air. My pedal is the poster-child for Viagra, even when pressing it is a waste of time, since I've cooked the pads doing something stupid.

- Jtoby

 

[daren_p]

This is the procedure from Wilwood, this is what I followed:

Pad and Rotor Bedding:
Bedding is a "real conditions" heat cycle and the final step in preparing the pads and rotors for service. All pads, even OE stock replacement parts, will benefit from a proper bedding cycle. All rotors, especially cast iron rotors that will be operated at sustained high temperatures, will provide longer service life and smoother braking when properly bedded. Bedding can be done either in the vehicle, or on a special bedding dyno that can realistically duplicate the torque loads, pressure, and temperature that will be realized in the vehicle.

Rotor Bedding:
Rotor bedding is an essential element to high level performance and durability. It is most critical with cast iron rotors. Cast iron is extremely well suited to use as a brake rotor, but it can be susceptible to thermal stress, distortion, and even cracking if subjected to rapid changes in temperature when it's new. The cracking sound that you may hear when pouring a favorite beverage over a glass of ice is thermal shock. A proper bedding cycle will gradually bring the rotors up to temperature and then allow them to cool slowly and completely in order to "season" and relieve any remaining stresses from the casting and machining processes. With some compounds, a layer of pad material may also be embedded onto the rotor face. It is important that this "transfer layer" be deposited slowly and smoothly. Otherwise, pedal pulsing and compromised friction values can result.

Pad Bedding:
The bedding process is the final "heat cure" for the pads. This final bedding cure differs from an oven heat cure in such that the oven heat cure does not include the pressure, torque, and elevated surface temperatures that are necessary to properly condition the pad for service. As it is with the rotors, new pads must be gradually brought up to temperature and then slowly cooled. If the pads are put into hard service right from the start, damage from fractures or accelerated deterioration due to extreme temperature variations between the surface and the body of the pad can occur. Overall poor performance with the potential for rotor damage are often the results.

Bedding Steps:

Once the brake system has been tested and determined safe to operate the vehicle, follow these steps for bedding of all pad materials and rotors.

1. Begin with a series of 8-10 light stops from approximately 30 MPH down to 15 MPH allowing 20-30 seconds for cooling between each stop.

2. Progress to series of 8-10 moderate stops from around 45 MPH down to 30 MPH allowing the 20-30 second cool down period between each stop.

3. Proceed with a series of 8-10 hard stops from 55-65 MPH down to 25 MPH allowing 20-30 seconds of cool down time between each stop.

4. Drive at a moderate cruising speed, with the least amount of brake contact possible, until most of the heat has dissipated from the brakes. Avoid sitting stopped with the brake pedal depressed to hold the car in place during this time. Park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool to ambient air temperature.

Notes:
During the bedding process, a more positive feel from the brakes should develop. This is an indication that the bed in process is working. If any level of brake fade is observed during the hard stops, it may be an indication that the brakes have been more than adequately heated. Begin cooling the brakes with light driving and without brake contact immediately.

 

[speedy13]

No. Fade is normal when the brakes get too hot, but a spongy pedal is always a bad sign. The brakes need to bled again, using fresh fluid ... not a bottle that's been on the shelf after opening for six months, absorbing moisture from the air. My pedal is the poster-child for Viagra, even when pressing it is a waste of time, since I've cooked the pads doing something stupid.

- Jtoby

It is normal to get a spongy feeling while beddding in the brakes. True it's not supposed to happen all the time, but right after you do your brakes and get them hot, it's a normal thing till they seat. I do brakes all day, and Someimes get customers calling in with this complain, even after the fluids have been flushed. We just tell em to drive the car and if they still have the same problem, to come back, they never come back with a problem. Truth is, it's hard to interpret spongy pedal feel, and brake fade thru the internet, I interpreted his description as fade, thats why i posted what i posted.

 

[Slammed0]

Ya mine was only spungy that one time. It hasn't done it again. Really, my brakes feel just fine to me now.

 

[4BangR-x]

I don't know where you got this, but I could not agree less. Most of the time that you feel the symptoms of "warped rotors" you are really feeling the effects of uneven deposits of material on the rotor. One of the best ways to create uneven deposits is to come to a complete stop with your foot on the brakes when the rotors are hot. To the extent that the above Step 1 has the goal of heating the brakes, it will, by the end, involve warm or hot rotors, and, therefore, should not include coming to a complete stop.

If you search around, there are about as many different suggestions on bedding as there are decent makers of pads. The better vendors -- e.g., Todd at TCE -- are honest enough to tell you that the method you use probably doesn't make much a difference, as long as you use one of them. With that said, however, it is important to note the one thing that all suggested methods have in common: don't come to a complete stop!

- Jtoby

While I agree that there is many ways of doing this, I myself have done the exact posted method on my dsm, and other cars mulitple, multiple times. Ive never EVER had a warped rotor. Ive owned very strong brake systems, and take pride in correct setups. 20-0 really isnt going to glaze your pad. It does get it hot though. Im not saying coming to a complete stop is absolutly 100% right, but I am saying it works for me, and it works very well. Im also not trying to re-write pad break-in procedures either, just simply sharing what I do to have a flawless, problem free brake system.