wret
15+ Year Contributor
- 2,931
- 90
- Jul 3, 2003
-
Bel Air,
Maryland
I am about finished installing an Energy Suspension master bushing set. I thought I would share some tips for easier installation and problems that one is likely to experience during a similar installation. This is an extremely laborious task. Having a professional mechanic do this would be cost prohibitive, to say the least. No one part is particular challenging, but almost every part presents some minor challenge. Others that have done this, feel free to contribute other tips or snags.
1. Review the bushings included in the kit before you tear into the vehicle. There are some that will not be replaced. I came very close to torching a bushing on a control arm that was not included although the one next to it was.
2. Do not attempt to press out the old bushings, even the smaller ones with a bench vice. I broke two vices. I returned a broken 4-inch to Harbor Freight and they gave me a 5-inch for no charge, which I broke immediately after bolting it to my bench.
3. Even if you have access to an arbor press, you will not be able to press out all the old bushings unless you take all the arms and knuckles completely off the vehicle.
4. The easiest way to remove an old bushing is to heat the inner metal bushing until the rubber around it starts to catch fire. You can then push out the metal part easily. Don't get carried away with the fire. If you ignite the rubber it will burn nearly forever. Then carefully cut the metal shell with a well lubricated recip. Saw. Cut toward the arm so if you accidentally cut too far, you will not weaken the ear. Once you get a slot cut in the shell, it will fall out or pry out easily.
An alternative to torching the bushing: With a drill slightly larger than 1/4" (17/64 I think), lubricate the bit and drill through the rubber between the metal inner bushing and the outer shell. With a narrow saber saw blade, you should be able to cut the outer shell. Once you do the whole thing should pop out easily with a couple taps of the hammer.
5. The kit (at least the one I got) has a couple multi-part urethane pieces but most are one piece. There is no way to insert a one piece bushing by hand. Even with a vice, it is very difficult because the bushing expands when you press on it. I found the best method is to tighten a hose clamp near one end of the bushing and draw it in to the opening with a piece of threaded rod with nuts and washers on both ends. Tighten a little then push on the lip with a screwdriver until it gets started all the way around, then remove the hose clamp and draw it all the way in. The metal insert should press in easily or you can draw it in the same way.
6. There was one little bugger that resisted even the threaded rod and hose clamp method. When I ran out of day light, I finally cut it half and made a two-piece bushing, which went in easily.
7. You will definitely need a four wheel alignment when you finish the bushings so be sure the rear toe adjustment cams are free. They are notorious for seizing (as mine were) so order new ones ahead of time so you can replace them as you do your rear bushings.
8. Don't plan to finish the job in a single weekend. It took me two.
9. An amazing number of tools made their way from the garage to under the car during the process. Besides the normal sockets and screwdrivers these may be helpful: Torch, ball joint separator, penetrating oil, pipe wrench, BFH, plastic BFH, punch (to drive out bolts and re-align the parts when replacing the bolt), 2-foot breaker bar, reciprocating saw, work light, second jack (to push up on wheels for parts realignment, blocks of wood, C-clamps, quick clamps (to clamp a part to a jack stand while you torch the bushing, bench vice (it really sucks without it when you have to saw out a bushing shell from a loose control arm, degreaser ( to remove the sticky synthetic grease that will get on everything you touch), 17mm half-inch drive socket and wrench (you may break your ½" to 3/8" adapter (I did).
1. Review the bushings included in the kit before you tear into the vehicle. There are some that will not be replaced. I came very close to torching a bushing on a control arm that was not included although the one next to it was.
2. Do not attempt to press out the old bushings, even the smaller ones with a bench vice. I broke two vices. I returned a broken 4-inch to Harbor Freight and they gave me a 5-inch for no charge, which I broke immediately after bolting it to my bench.
3. Even if you have access to an arbor press, you will not be able to press out all the old bushings unless you take all the arms and knuckles completely off the vehicle.
4. The easiest way to remove an old bushing is to heat the inner metal bushing until the rubber around it starts to catch fire. You can then push out the metal part easily. Don't get carried away with the fire. If you ignite the rubber it will burn nearly forever. Then carefully cut the metal shell with a well lubricated recip. Saw. Cut toward the arm so if you accidentally cut too far, you will not weaken the ear. Once you get a slot cut in the shell, it will fall out or pry out easily.
An alternative to torching the bushing: With a drill slightly larger than 1/4" (17/64 I think), lubricate the bit and drill through the rubber between the metal inner bushing and the outer shell. With a narrow saber saw blade, you should be able to cut the outer shell. Once you do the whole thing should pop out easily with a couple taps of the hammer.
5. The kit (at least the one I got) has a couple multi-part urethane pieces but most are one piece. There is no way to insert a one piece bushing by hand. Even with a vice, it is very difficult because the bushing expands when you press on it. I found the best method is to tighten a hose clamp near one end of the bushing and draw it in to the opening with a piece of threaded rod with nuts and washers on both ends. Tighten a little then push on the lip with a screwdriver until it gets started all the way around, then remove the hose clamp and draw it all the way in. The metal insert should press in easily or you can draw it in the same way.
6. There was one little bugger that resisted even the threaded rod and hose clamp method. When I ran out of day light, I finally cut it half and made a two-piece bushing, which went in easily.
7. You will definitely need a four wheel alignment when you finish the bushings so be sure the rear toe adjustment cams are free. They are notorious for seizing (as mine were) so order new ones ahead of time so you can replace them as you do your rear bushings.
8. Don't plan to finish the job in a single weekend. It took me two.
9. An amazing number of tools made their way from the garage to under the car during the process. Besides the normal sockets and screwdrivers these may be helpful: Torch, ball joint separator, penetrating oil, pipe wrench, BFH, plastic BFH, punch (to drive out bolts and re-align the parts when replacing the bolt), 2-foot breaker bar, reciprocating saw, work light, second jack (to push up on wheels for parts realignment, blocks of wood, C-clamps, quick clamps (to clamp a part to a jack stand while you torch the bushing, bench vice (it really sucks without it when you have to saw out a bushing shell from a loose control arm, degreaser ( to remove the sticky synthetic grease that will get on everything you touch), 17mm half-inch drive socket and wrench (you may break your ½" to 3/8" adapter (I did).
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