Words of wisdom? 1st Brake Install

[PhoenixRPR]

I've received my new Axxis metal master brake pads and Brembo cross-drilled/slotted rotors. Before I attempt to install the new brakes, any words of wisdom for a first timer?

 

[jtmcinder]

If your current rotors have been on the car for a decade, go slowly as you screw in the two bolts to pop them off the hubs. You do not want to strip the threads in the rotors. Also, keep in mind that shocks (i.e., high-energy vibrations) do wonders to break rust-welds. Actually hitting the centers of the rotors on the outside with a hammer (i.e., banging them on) can help break them loose (off).

- Jtoby

 

[PhoenixRPR]

Why would I be screwing in two bolts to pop them off the hub? I'm confused, I would assume I'd be screwing bolts out to get things off.

 

[jtmcinder]

I'll answer, but this really should be moved to the newbie's forum.

In theory, once you take the brake caliper off, the rotor can be pulled off by hand. The problem is that theory doesn't take the reality of years of salt and grime into account, so your rotors will undoubtedly be stuck to the hubs. Luckily, Mitsu foresaw this and - like most makers - put two little threaded holes in the rotor for you to screw bolts into. As you screw these bolts in, they press against the hub, leveraging the rotor off. In practice, what happens is that you keep screwing in the two bolts, alternating from one to the other after each quarter turn or so, with it getting harder and harder, until, in a loud bang, the rotor suddenly pops off, scaring the crap out of you.

In about 25% of the cases, when we're talking about rotors that have been on there for a decade, the rotor actually cracks at some point. Be ready for this.

- Jtoby

 

[Defiant]

Originally posted by PhoenixRPR
Why would I be screwing in two bolts to pop them off the hub? I'm confused, I would assume I'd be screwing bolts out to get things off.

Um... you DO have a shop manual, don't you?

 

[PhoenixRPR]

My Haynes manual and Mitsu. service manual are at my other house far awy, but I will try to get them.

 

[jim97gst]

Don't forget to lube your caliper bolts with the special grease (it's red and comes in a little packet like ketchup).

Keep your bottom and top caliper bolts straight. They are different. They are marked on the ends.

Find some way to support the caliper while you're working on the rotor. Don't let it fall and hang by the brake line.

You may need a clamp of some kind to push the caliper piston back so you can fit in your new pads. I can usually do it by just pushing on it with a block of wood with both hands.

Good luck!

 

[dsm1kenobe]

Originally posted by jim97gst
You may need a clamp of some kind to push the caliper piston back so you can fit in your new pads. I can usually do it by just pushing on it with a block of wood with both hands.

Good luck!

or you can use a c-clamp. Only the fronts can be compressed using this method. The hydraulic piston in the rear calipers, I think have to be screwed in in order to compress them...don't quote me on that one - check a shop manual to be sure.

The hardest part in this process will be getting the old rotor off. JTM mentions one way, but there's another method where you utilize the caliper holes on the knuckle, with a nut and long bolt - I found this way to be easier than JTM's method. I would try to explain it to you, but a picture will work best. I know there's a link of this somewhere. Can someone chime in on this?

Use lots of anti-seize when you install the bolts back in. Put even torque on the lugnuts when tightening these - don't want to warp these rotors. Adjust your parking brake as needed and don't forget to swear a lot.

 

[PhoenixRPR]

Originally posted by jim97gst
Don't forget to lube your caliper bolts with the special grease (it's red and comes in a little packet like ketchup).

Keep your bottom and top caliper bolts straight. They are different. They are marked on the ends.

Find some way to support the caliper while you're working on the rotor. Don't let it fall and hang by the brake line.

You may need a clamp of some kind to push the caliper piston back so you can fit in your new pads. I can usually do it by just pushing on it with a block of wood with both hands.

Good luck!

I don't recall having this grease. Was it suppose to come with the pads or rotors, or is it bought separately. I already bought some anti-squeal grease to put between the calipers and pads. Is there a tech article on this anywhere on the net?

 

[jim97gst]

No, it probably didn't come with your pads or rotors. Just go to any parts store and ask them for caliper bolt grease. Any high temp grease will probably do fine, but the speacialized stuff only costs a buck or two.

You can probably search and find a tech article. It's pretty basic stuff. With all the tips you've gotten here, a Haynes or Chiltons manual should be all you need.

 

[PhoenixRPR]

That grease is the same as anti-sieze right?

 

[jim97gst]

No, they're not the same. I just looked at my packet of caliper stuff. It's labeled "disk brake caliper lube". It's bright red. Rub it all over the caliper bolt before you put it back in. Mainly the unthreaded portion. There's a rubber boot on the caliper that keeps it from getting washed off.

Anti-seize lubricant is silvery looking. It is strictly for putting on the threaded portion so you can get it off later. I've never put anti-sieze lubricant on caliper bolts, and I've never had a problem getting them off. It wouldn't hurt though. Put it on first if you're going to use it.

 

[PhoenixRPR]

Originally posted by jtmcinder
I'll answer, but this really should be moved to the newbie's forum.

In theory, once you take the brake caliper off, the rotor can be pulled off by hand. The problem is that theory doesn't take the reality of years of salt and grime into account, so your rotors will undoubtedly be stuck to the hubs. Luckily, Mitsu foresaw this and - like most makers - put two little threaded holes in the rotor for you to screw bolts into. As you screw these bolts in, they press against the hub, leveraging the rotor off. In practice, what happens is that you keep screwing in the two bolts, alternating from one to the other after each quarter turn or so, with it getting harder and harder, until, in a loud bang, the rotor suddenly pops off, scaring the crap out of you.

In about 25% of the cases, when we're talking about rotors that have been on there for a decade, the rotor actually cracks at some point. Be ready for this.

- Jtoby

Thank you for the great explanation. Also, I have 'Ultra Disk Brake Lube" made by "Counterman's Choice". I dunno if its red, but I assume this is what I need along with some anti-seize. Sorry, yes I am a newbie when it comes to installing brakes, first time for everything.

 

[jtmcinder]

Sta-Lube high-temp caliper grease is what I recommend. 2Gs have a real problem with caliper pins seizing and this stuff is great.

- Jtoby